colllet chucks

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fred hatton

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Mar 29, 2014
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16
Location
Hawley,PA
I am looking at a brown and sharp collet chuck. It says it is a #7. Is this the size of the taper that fits in the head stock? If so how does this compare to MT2.
 
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Number 7 is not the same as MT 2. Number 7 is used upon industrial type equipment like a mill.
Also collet chucks are sized for collet insert so you have two things to think about, fitting in tho head stock of the lathe Mt2 taper and what size of collets you want , mine goes to 3/4 on Mt2 and the other for my nMetal lathe with Mt3 goes up to one inch.
 
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I have two collet chucks: one has MT2 taper and fits into the headstock (or tailstock), the other screws onto the headstock threads. When drilling and/or tapping threads, the type that screws on gives much better accuracy since I can recess the majority of the rod into the hole through the headstock (instead of having several inches sticking out.)

Mostly I use the MT2 collet chuck to hold drill bits that are too large for my Jacob's chuck.
 
There are an alphabet soup of collets MT; ER; DA; R; and all of them are intended for different purposes. AND they are not the interchangeable.

Even for our wood lathes; some of the Collet chucks and collets sold are not standard so it would be difficult to get additional collets.
 
I bought a collet chuck that uses the mores taper because it was cheaper. I didn't like it one little bit. Any vibration caused it to come loose from the head stock. I put an all thread through the head stock and just didn't feel comfortable with it and I didn't like the end sticking out the back. I bought a Beal collet that screws on the head stock and I love it. If I had to replace every thing I have that would be one of the first things I'd buy.
 
I have the Beal chuck and a full set of mm collets. MM over inch gives a slight better range of collet size overlap.
Agree with Hank. If you get the Beall assortment you will sometimes have a part that won't fit tightly because the collet sizes don't overlap completely. I also got a mm set (from Bangood) to span 2 to 21 mm; works great.
 
I have the PSI collet chuck and use it all the time. Runs true, well machined, and a good price. I have been thinking of picking up a better collet assortment though.
 
I bought a used Beall set and all - though I typically only use 4-5 of the collets, I would not hesitate to buy them again. Cannot say enough for the craftsmanship. It all depends on your needs. If precision is crucial, these are an excellent tool in your tool box.
 
I have the PSI collet chuck and use it all the time. Runs true, well machined, and a good price. I have been thinking of picking up a better collet assortment though.

I also have the PSI set and agree that it is very good. Collets each have a range of diameters that they are able to clamp securely. The PSI set is imperial and in 1/8" increments. That essentially means that you are confined to working in tenon diameters that are essentially increments of 1/8" (starting with the smallest collet in the set at 1/4"). I opted to extend the basis set by purchasing two additional collets - 1/8", and 20mm. That still leaves me with gaps in tenon diameters that I am unable to grip with a collet. For example, I can' grip a 5/16" tenon. It is possible to purchase imperial collets in 1/16' steps, but so far I haven't seen the need. I keep this chart in the box to remind me of the limitations:

NominalImperial (in)Metric (mm)
MinimumMaximumMinimumMaximumMinimum
1/8"0.0860.1252.1753.175
1/4"0.2110.2505.356.35
3/8"0.3360.3758.5259.525
1/2"0.4610.50011.712.7
5/8"0.5860.62514.87515.875
3/4"0.7110.75018.0519.05
20mm0.7810.8201920

As Hank noted, an advantage of choosing a set of metric collets is that they come in 1mm increments, and there are no gaps that cannot be gripped over the 2-21mm range.
 
Thanks to all who answered my question about the R7 designation on the brown & sharp collet chuck. I am not that familiar with metal working equipment so was hoping it would be like # 2 MT as I was looking for a good collet chuck for my lathe. I had though about the BEALL chuck but felt that a MT chuck would be more accurate than one that screwed on the headstock spindle. Thanks to those who said they have that system and are very happy with it. I will be ordering the BEALL chuck as they seen to be the only ones that carry it for a 1 1/4 inch spindle. Will also be ordering a set of metric er32 collets. If this works then I will probably get a BEAL chuck for my metal lathe in 1 1/2 inch if not I will keep on looking for a good #2 MT collet chuck.

Thanks again, Fred
 
If you have a standard chinese metal mini-lathe (Taig type), I don't think the Beall collett chuck is going to work. You'll need to get a chuck that can mount directly to the lathe face plate. I got mine (and a set of metric collets) from Banggood. The chuck was around $25 and is of good quality.
 
If you have a standard chinese metal mini-lathe (Taig type), I don't think the Beall collett chuck is going to work. You'll need to get a chuck that can mount directly to the lathe face plate. I got mine (and a set of metric collets) from Banggood. The chuck was around $25 and is of good quality.

Taig lathes are not made in China, also not anything like the Chinese lathes. Beall also makes an ER32 collet for the Taig lathe.
 
Taig lathes are not made in China, also not anything like the Chinese lathes. Beall also makes an ER32 collet for the Taig lathe.
Sorry, you are of course correct. I meant to say 'Sieg' instead of 'Taig'.
Nevertheless, OP didn't say what type of lathe he has, and the most common type of metal lathe most of us have is the standard chinese mini-lathe (Sieg type), in which case my point stands.
 
The metal lathe is an old south bend 9"X3' gear change with a 1 1/2 x 8 tpi head stock spindle. I have two Jacobs headstock chucks. One a 58B and the other a 59B along with the standard 3 jaw chuck. All of which have a little to much runout for finer work. I mostly turn between centers on it so really don't need another chuck. All of this to turn a few TBC bushings and a few mandrels for the closed end things that I do and some that I want to try. The wood lathe is a 3520A. Two full size beds with two 18 inch extensions for the big stuff that I used to turn. To old for that kind of work anymore.
 
Craft Supplies has their own branded one that fits 1-1/4. I know, I have one along with many other people in my local club. It is less expensive than the Beall and is very good.
 
Craft Supplies has their own branded one that fits 1-1/4. I know, I have one along with many other people in my local club. It is less expensive than the Beall and is very good.
I just ordered the collets. Will look on Craft Supplies for the chuck.
 
I believe the South Bend lathe has a MT3 taper in the spindle. If so here is a ER32 chuck for $17.


You will usually get better precision using the inside taper verses the outside threads. However you will be able to pass your material through your headstock using a chuck that mounts to the outside threads.

Danny


Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app
 
I believe the South Bend lathe has a MT3 taper in the spindle. If so here is a ER32 chuck for $17.


You will usually get better precision using the inside taper verses the outside threads. However you will be able to pass your material through your headstock using a chuck that mounts to the outside threads.

Danny

Dan you are telling me what I already thought . I should have read your post a while ago as I just ordered the beall chuck in
1 1/4 for my wood lathe. I will see how this works out and then decide what I will get for the south bend.
 
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