Cloudy CA finish

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H

hazard

Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2007
Messages
142
Location
Evansville, wi, USA.
I seem to be struggling more and more with this.

My method of madness is sand blank to 2000 grit sandpaper. Put on some mineral spirits and let dry. Then 4-6 coats of thin CA with BLO on paper towel. The first coat I give the blank a good coat of BLO to clean dust out and the other coats I just use a few drops. I then sand with 1000, 1200, 1500 sandpaper and then 4000-12000 micromesh.

My problem is that I am getting flat spots in the finish. It seems to be under the surface of the finish if that makes sense.

Somethings I have thought about that might not help the finish.
1. I do not let the BLO totally dry between coats. CA is dry though
2. I don't let the blank site for a few hours to cure before I sand.
3. I might be creating to much heat when sanding the finish.

If anyone has and clues to my problem I would greatly appreciate it. It if very frustrating when I get so far on a pen and the finish looks like crap.

Thanks
Chris
 
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Chris,

I encountered the same problem when I applied a coat of BLO to "pop" the grain before the CA/BLO process. This was resolved when I made sure to allow enough time between coats for the previous coat to properly dry. When staring with BLO, I will allow the blank to sit overnight before I start the CA/BLO process, then wait at least a couple of hours between coats to allow time for curing. I've had my best results when I've take the time to apply a coat of CA/BLO in the morning, another in the evening. This amount of time may be overkill, but it works for me.

Also, I always hand sand, with the grain, with 600 grit sandpaper between coats. Again, my process may be excessive, but I also went through the pain of turning a great piece of wood, only to have the finish fail. By spending the time, the quality of my finishes has increased dramatically.
 
I think, someone correct me if I am wrong, but the white look that CA gives is from drying to fast and/or heat. I also learned many of those white streaks can be buffed out with some fine compound like 555.

Ed
 
You are probabl;y asking too much of your Boiled Linseed Oil. Remember these 2 rules of finishes --

Cloudy, white, or milky appearance is from moisture. It can be mposture in the wood because it isn't as dry as we thought, or moisture that has been driven to the surface from the heat of sanding. It can also be moisture that we have added through the use of alcohol.

Flat, or no gloss, finish is caused by the oil in or on the wood. It can be either natural oils or an oil that we have put there. They behave the same.

Your flat no gloss areas are most likely from the BLO that hasn't cured. Boiled Linseed Oil needs at least overnight for a proper 100% cure in the best of conditions. At this time of the year with lower temperatures, it can take 2 or 3 days or longer before it is dry enough to put another finish over it. Another rule of thumb is that every 5 degrees below 65F doubles the time it take for an oil finish to dry, and below 45F it might stay liquid until spring.
 
Should it be BLO first (on the naked, sanded wood)and then CA or Ca and then BLO?

That may be a question for Russ.

I have had the best luck with saturating the wood with thin CA (after MM'ing) without any oil - not using the CA as a finish but more as a sanding sealer. Once the CA has thoroughly dried (without use of ANY accelorator) I MM from about 3200 - 12000 again and then use CA and sometimes BLO for the finish. I've heard of these white patches but I've only had them once myself. Of course, I have no idea why I had these patches. It was a cocobolo blank. Perhaps that's the reason - it is an oily kind of wood.

Julia
 
It probably doesn't make any difference. I put the CA glue on first and then work it in with the BLO on top, because that is the way I thought it should be when I first used this combination as a finish about 10 years ago, and I have never had a reason to change. Don Ward puts the BLO on first and his finishes look better than mine. And there are some people who can't get a good finish either way.

I usually use the CA as a wood hardener and filler under another finish. Even shellac holds up a lot better when it has a hard CA under it.
 
Hi - I'm new to the forums. I've done many pens...none as in-depth as the finishing processes described in this thread. Could someone guide me to a website, thread, or youtube video on finishing turnings with the CA/BLO processes you're talking about? I'm completely in the dark on this process...including where to get the materials. Thanks for your reponses in advance...

Philip Culver
 
Philip,
Welcome to the forum. As a new member you should nose around the site a little and get familiar with what we have here. You will find the library an excellent resource for most any topic on penturning. And, YouTube has nothing on us...we even have videos that show how others do things. Look through the library, browse the photo albums and try out the search features. We even have the ability to search other penturning sites for information.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
Originally posted by pculver

Hi - I'm new to the forums. I've done many pens...none as in-depth as the finishing processes described in this thread. Could someone guide me to a website, thread, or youtube video on finishing turnings with the CA/BLO processes you're talking about? I'm completely in the dark on this process...including where to get the materials. Thanks for your reponses in advance...

Philip Culver
Click to expand...
 
Philip, take some time and look through Russ Fairfields website, its on his reply above. Russ is the guru on finishing and freely shares his knowledge on his web site. He also has a few videos for sale. It will be time well spent. Oh and Welcome!
 
Originally posted by pculver

Hi - I'm new to the forums. I've done many pens...none as in-depth as the finishing processes described in this thread. Could someone guide me to a website, thread, or youtube video on finishing turnings with the CA/BLO processes you're talking about? I'm completely in the dark on this process...including where to get the materials. Thanks for your reponses in advance...

Philip Culver
Click to expand...

Phillip,
Welcome to the group. You and Chris have received good advice from Don Ward and Russ Fairfield and when you hear them speak, just play Luke Skywalker and go "Yes Master Yoda". :)

After reading in the library, head to Russ Fairfield's web site. If I live long enough to learn 1% of what he knows about penturning, I will be happy. A great place to read and learn. I can't count the number of times I've visited his site and I will continue. http://www.woodturner-russ.com/Pen10.html.
 
You can take this for what it is worth, but I have also found out that a flat (un-glossy) finish is also caused by to thin a finish in a localized area. How I found this out is when I got a flat area, I went to sand down the area to make sure it wasn't from oils underneath and noticed that I could sand through the finish with 600 grit in a few seconds, and I do mean a few seconds 2 or 3 seconds, and not much pressure either. I noticed this especially on Curly Hawaiian Koa.

Sheldon
 
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