Closed end Sumac Slimline

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mark james

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I ADDED THE PHOTOS ABOVE LATER.


This was a "test-pen" just to experiment with a few new things for me:

1. Closed end Slimline
2. Modified with the Brass center-band
3. Used a home-made pin chuck to turn both blanks at the same time to get the profile to match.
4. The Sumac was not stabilized, so I used two coats of thin CA, and sanded back to profile to get a matte finish

I really liked this with the grain patterns that matched fairly nicely... Wifey came home: "That's MINE!!!

I guess I'll just have to make another. :bananen_smilies022:
 

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magpens

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I really like that, Mark !!!! . Well done !!!!!

Does the one pin chuck go through both blanks ? . Must have a very long pin. . Hmmm ... or maybe two pins.
 
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mark james

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Sumac is supposed to glow under black light. Time to go to the nightclubs and see if it's true. :) Good looking pen.

So if I remember, that would be Bell-Bottoms, Polyester Leisure Suit, Velvet Red Bow Tie, Waddling to the Bee Gees... ("Staying Alive, Staying Alive, Whoo, Hoo Hoo, Hoo").

Maybe I'll just let Wifey have the pen!
 

mark james

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I really like that, Mark !!!! . Well done !!!!!

Does the one pin chuck go through both blanks ? . Must have a very long pin. . Hmmm ... or maybe two pins.

I have a set of Pin chucks, and I also use my Harbor Freight Punch Set and simply grind a flat slot for whatever tube size I need (Then grind down nails to fit). The punches are still perfectly fine as is.

Yes, for this modification, I ground the center punch to extend between both blanks. Very easy (5 min). I then turned the CENTERS of both blanks at the same time. I then finished both blanks ends separately.

It is more complicated to write this than to do it!

Give it a try!
 

Cwalker935

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Beautiful wood and pen. Great job.

You can do the closed end with a pen mandrel if you have the type of mandrel that allows you to adjust for length. Place the lower tube on first with the bushing for nose cone, adjust the length so that the upper closed end tube can be jammed against the lower tube (you have to leave it long in the beginning to allow room for parting off), jam a live center up against the closed end tube, turn, finish, part off, then clean up and finish the parted off end. This allows you to turn your center to the same dimension.
 

mark james

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Beautiful wood and pen. Great job.

You can do the closed end with a pen mandrel if you have the type of mandrel that allows you to adjust for length. Place the lower tube on first with the bushing for nose cone, adjust the length so that the upper closed end tube can be jammed against the lower tube (you have to leave it long in the beginning to allow room for parting off), jam a live center up against the closed end tube, turn, finish, part off, then clean up and finish the parted off end. This allows you to turn your center to the same dimension.

Nice. That sounds easier than what I did. :good: I'll have to try that when I make MY pen.
 

mark james

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Nice pen Mark.

here let me help with a photo. I use the same method except that you filed both ends of the punch.



Yup! That is exactly what I did, but my slot was longer, so that both blanks were mounted together, with the closed end on the tailstock side, held snug with my mandrel saver, until final shaping and finishing.

It worked nice, but I think I will also try Cody's suggestion.
 

wood128

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Good looking closed pen. I have never tried on of those ......maybe next year ? I dug out a piece of sumac in my shop, and it is a red color, very hard. Maybe there is more than one kind of sumac. I posted a picture of it on the next thread in this cat. THe Royal Poinciana is super to work with....I will send you a box to try after Christmas. Take care.
 

BobGast

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Hi Mark. First post here other than introduction. Very nice pen. All that stuff you talked about above is ??? to me. I am so new to turning that all I have done are a few slimline pens with pre-drilled rosewood blanks that I got included in a pen making starter kit.
 

magpens

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Bob, you'll catch on to the lingo !!

Do a google search for "pin chuck". You'll see some different ones.

The second picture in the row is the basic type of chuck used by Mark with a modification to allow two blanks to be put on the chuck.

You will notice a flat spot ground on the steel rod and a pin lying on the flat spot.
The rod has a diameter which just slides into the brass tube you are using.
The blank with the brass tube glued in slides over the rod/pin. When you turn on the lathe the pin moves slightly and locks the blank in place.
 
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