Closed end Jr. Gents

[gerryr]

I'm about ready to try my first closed end pen, a Jr. Gents. I understand how to do this for a fountain pen, but I'm going to do a rollerball. What do people do about the spring? Should I just add another 5/8" to the depth of the hole to accomodate it?

 

[Fangar]

Originally posted by gerryr
<br />I'm about ready to try my first closed end pen, a Jr. Gents. I understand how to do this for a fountain pen, but I'm going to do a rollerball. What do people do about the spring? Should I just add another 5/8" to the depth of the hole to accomodate it?

Gerry,

Here is how I do it for the Baron. I would imagine that the idea would be similar. The important thing is to measure the length of the gent assembled to obtain the proper measurement for the added depth. I drill a 1/4" hole to accommodate the spring. In my opinion, the larger hole required for the tube would allow the refill to move around and the spring to get lost.

Here is a diagram:

It should be noted that I drill these on the lathe. They can be done on a press however. I would recommend drilling the 25/64" first, and then the 1/4". If done on the lathe, it centers very easily. Also, check your overall length of the blank. 3 and 5/8" gives me plenty for my live center to bite while turning until I get the shape down and part off the waist. Then the pin chuck takes over (It is turned on the pin chuck from the beginning) and allows the end to be rounded, sanded and finished.

This shows the intial chuckig and setup:

Please let me know of any additional questions you might have. I am sure that others will chime in to help too.

Fangar

 

[gerryr]

Thanks, that's exactly what I needed. As soon as I get your pin chuck, I'm in business.

 

[Fangar]

Originally posted by gerryr
<br />Thanks, that's exactly what I needed. As soon as I get your pin chuck, I'm in business.

Glad to hear it. Just be sure to check the mearuements for the kit you are using.

Fangar

 

[gerberpens]

Dittos from me too James. I appreciate your explanation and pictures. I can't wait to get my pin chuck.

Gary

 

[its_virgil]

Fanger,
Nice illustration and explaination. I was underr the impression that using a pin chuck to hold the pen blank precluded the need for using the tail stock/live center. Am I mistaken, or do you use the tail stock/live center just for added security or is it needed? It would be nice if the tail stock were not needed so the end of the pen could be fashioned without needing to part off the very tip of unturned wood. Am I dreaming out in LaLa land?
do a good turn daily!
Don

 

[Fangar]

Originally posted by its_virgil
<br />Fanger,
Nice illustration and explaination. I was underr the impression that using a pin chuck to hold the pen blank precluded the need for using the tail stock/live center. Am I mistaken, or do you use the tail stock/live center just for added security or is it needed? It would be nice if the tail stock were not needed so the end of the pen could be fashioned without needing to part off the very tip of unturned wood. Am I dreaming out in LaLa land?
do a good turn daily!
Don

Don,

I usually use the tailstock to begin with to round the blank from its starting (square) edged shape. The tailstock makes it a bit more firm. That is not to say you can't turn one without it. The pin chuck actually holds the piece solid. The tailstock like you mentioned just holds it without question. Once I get it rounded down, I slide the tailstock out of the way and not so much part it off, as chisel the point from the center out. It's all good though. I do the same thing for bottle stoppers even with a screw chuck.

Cheers,

Fangar