Clear Acrylic???

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RustySplinters

RustySplinters

Member
Joined
May 8, 2011
Messages
264
Location
Oklahoma City
This stuff is killer. At least the inside of it is. I've tried a ton of times to buff the inside of it with a raising sandpaper and MM. nothing has helped. My pen looks good without the acrylic being just cloudy but it'd be best clear.

The "acrylic" is actually alumilite if that helps.. I just didnt want to correct myelf a million times :wink::foot-in-mouth:

Anyways.. HELP!? :confused::confused:
 
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Hi Rusty: It would be a big help to us to know what it is that you're trying to do. Once we understand, all of us can start pondering solutions.
 
you may need to be careful on the inside.. not sure if you have
any critical dimensions.

I like the idea of wrapping abrasive material around a dowel. Whether
sandpaper, micromesh or charging a piece of cloth with a buffing compound,
you should be able to get it in there to do it's job.
 
Make a positive mold from the inside of the pen(super shiny finish) and then cast your blank. Just design it that you can pull it out or unscrew if you have threads on the mold. Now turn the shape of the pen you like and you should have a pretty good near perfect inside finish.
You will have to use a release agent on the mold.
I have done it before with basic tools you would find in most shops.
 
OOPS said:
Hi Rusty: It would be a big help to us to know what it is that you're trying to do. Once we understand, all of us can start pondering solutions.
Click to expand...


Trying to polish the inside of my clear alumilite cap...


Constant Laubscher said:
The Penguin said:
look up "flame polishing" on YouTube

might be your solution.
Click to expand...

That will work but you might get an excessive heat build up very quickly and Alumilite melts very quickly.( Inside the pen barrel)
Worth a try!
Click to expand...

I'd like to try that but I lack the equipment and The thought of burning this piece kind of scares me.. I don't really have a replacement unfortunately. I'd have to order new material
 
NewLondon88 said:
you may need to be careful on the inside.. not sure if you have
any critical dimensions.

I like the idea of wrapping abrasive material around a dowel. Whether
sandpaper, micromesh or charging a piece of cloth with a buffing compound,
you should be able to get it in there to do it's job.
Click to expand...

What do you mean critical dimensions? The hole is 10.5 mm wide and i think about 30 mm long.
And that just hasn't worked for me yet.. I'm not sure why. But it still comes out cloudy after 12000mm
 
RustySplinters said:
NewLondon88 said:
you may need to be careful on the inside.. not sure if you have
any critical dimensions.

I like the idea of wrapping abrasive material around a dowel. Whether
sandpaper, micromesh or charging a piece of cloth with a buffing compound,
you should be able to get it in there to do it's job.
Click to expand...

What do you mean critical dimensions? The hole is 10.5 mm wide and i think about 30 mm long.
And that just hasn't worked for me yet.. I'm not sure why. But it still comes out cloudy after 12000mm
Click to expand...
It's probably because your hitting the inside with parts of the mm that has no abrasive on (edge of the pad) causing it to be cloudy, you will need to buff it with cotton pads and buffing compound. you can get mounted cotton buffs for dremel's in all different sizes.

I had to buff the drilled holes in some acrylic medical equipment I made a long time ago to be clear, it can be done.
 
If you have a Dremel tool you should be able to use the felt polishing buffs (may have to shape or cut them down) on the end of a long mandrel made from a piece of 1/8 rod and regular polishing abrasives.

In place of the felt buffs you could probably also use some other fabric or maybe cotton wrapped around the end of the mandrel to form the polishing buff you want.

I've never tried this for clear plastics, but I polish freshly cut rifle chambers to a mirror finish this way so suitable plastic abrasives and Dremel speeds (to avoid heat problems) would probably work for plastics.

I've been toying with the idea of doing this myself to make a clear bodied dropper fill pen.
 
If you are just practicing or making these for yourself, then you might settle for "good enough" like Shawn said and just use sharp bits and some soapy water to keep the bit cool. This will do a pretty good job, but still leave scratches. It just cant be avoided. But if you plan to sell these to people, then to me "good enough" just doesnt cut it. If these are going to a customer, than nothing less than perfect is good enough. I do this with a dowel and a slit with sand paper in it. I go up to 1500 grit and then buff with the dremel and some compound. You will have to make some rods(i used stainless) to mount the buffs onto to be long enough to get in there. If you used sharp bits and lots of water then the job should go quicker. Take your time and you can get it crystal clear. What i also find helps is to polish the outside first, so that any scratches that you see are on the inside and you know how much to work off. Dont use to much pressure or to high of an RPM or you can melt it with the buff.
 
Cotton rope and polishing compound finish with silver polish (water based ) and wash
touch up if needed with Q tips and patience
 
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