Cherry burl.

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eteska

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Oct 29, 2019
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I cut up a few blanks today to cast in epoxy resin. Last attempt I got one of my nicest pens to date and had one complete failure. The failure was losing a large chunk ruining the blank. The part that blew was bark.

My question is should I be trying to get most of the bark off? (it’s really stuck on these pieces.) if so does anyone have any tips?

IMG_3180.JPG



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1080Wayne

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Bark is tricky . NO guarantees , but frequent stops for application of thin CA can help . Literally flood the boundary with CA the first time . After letting it soak in for a few minutes , use accelerator . It may not be fully cured all the way down , even after an hour . If you get CA spatters on your face shield , STOP . Best to re-apply after each reduction in diameter of about 1/4 inch .
 

eteska

Member
Joined
Oct 29, 2019
Messages
47
Location
Wisconsin
Bark is tricky . NO guarantees , but frequent stops for application of thin CA can help . Literally flood the boundary with CA the first time . After letting it soak in for a few minutes , use accelerator . It may not be fully cured all the way down , even after an hour . If you get CA spatters on your face shield , STOP . Best to re-apply after each reduction in diameter of about 1/4 inch .
Thx for responding. This is similar to what I have done in the past. Probably just need to slow down a bit and be more patient.


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1080Wayne

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Joined
Feb 5, 2006
Messages
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Location
Brownfield, Alberta, Canada.
As a general rule , stabilizing will not harden bark . The degree of its effect upon the bark/sapwood transition probably varies between wood species . I depend upon CA , even on woods such as chokecherrry and saskatoon , which hold bark tightly .
 
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