Cherry burl turning problem

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Status
Not open for further replies.

bmchan

Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2006
Messages
49
Location
Worcester, MA, USA.
Turned my first cherry burl blank last night and lost two pieces as I made my final passes. As I get to final the cut a piece breaks away exposing the tube. I can tell this is a soft wood but the end result is gorgeous. Is there a trick to preventing this?

I sharpen two - three times while turning a piece. One had been glued with epoxy 3 days ago and the other had been epoxied one hour earlier.

BTW - sixty minute epoxy does not set up in sixty minutes.

Thanks.
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
I let my blanks sit for about 6 hours after I glue the tubes in regardless of what type of glue I use. For burls I recommend putting a coat of thin CA on the tube prior to making your last few passes. This will help stabilize the blank and help with keeping it together. I had a beautiful amboyna burl blank come apart right at the end as well so I feel your pain. Good luck!
 
That is a heart breaker, I've been there. I just did a piece of X cut that started to chip on the final cuts. I followed the advice of the experts here and dribbled a little thin CA on the ends. I finished it off with a very sharp scraper and super fine cuts and, thank the Gods, it came out perfect. If I would have blown that blank my wife would have found me hanging from the rafters of the garage this morning [xx(]
 
For any blank that I use that is soft, with any fissure, inclusion, or voids...I always apply thin CA inside the hole after drilling. Re-drill afterwards then glue the tube with whatever you want to use.

That will help reduce blowout tremendously.
 
Was there glue on the tube where the blow-out occurred? Whenever I turn an non-stabilized burl, I use a lot of thin CA once I get it turned round. It will also help if you put thin CA on the ends after milling.
 
I have had similar problems in the past. In addition to what others have said, as you get closer to your final shape, you might want to switch to your 60 or 80 grit gouge.

jeff
 
Originally posted by Dario
<br />For any blank that I use that is soft, with any fissure, inclusion, or voids...I always apply thin CA inside the hole after drilling. Re-drill afterwards then glue the tube with whatever you want to use.

Dario is spot on with his advice. Also as you get towards the final diameter apply thin CA all over the blank. Sharp tools, light cuts, fast lathe.
 
Stabilizing burls is (I know this is going to start a debate [:p] ) always reccomended. By nature, they want to fall, or fly, apart. Dosing periodically with CA while turning is a stabil subsitute method also.
 
As with others, I also feel your pain. I lost several beautiful amboyna burl blanks in exactly the same manner, but got the same advise as has been given and I haven't lost any since. Good advise is hard to beat. Just one of the many reasons this is such a great organization.

keithz
 
I had a Dyed, Stabilized BEB blank do that last saturday.[:(!][:(!]
It was the third pen of a set of three. I had ZERO pieces left to make another pen. Fortunately my customer REALLY liked some of the Texas Mtn. Laurel I had and took one in trade.[:D]
Sometimes, even with Stabilized blanks, thin CA is not a bad idea!!
 
Black Cherry Burl is one of my Favorite so I turn alot of it.
One thing I do is is I turn so far and look, CA anything that looks like it might come apart or fall out, Then I turn more and repeat.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom