Changing live center Jet 1014

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southernclay

southernclay

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I have a Jet 1014, I can't seem to figure out how to change the live center, want to be able to drill blanks or put a 60 degree in for trying TBC. From everything I can find it is supposed to be MT2 however what is there now is hollow, I can get the current center out but it isn't MT2, just can't figure out what I'm missing?
 
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southernclay said:
I have a Jet 1014, I can't seem to figure out how to change the live center, want to be able to drill blanks or put a 60 degree in for trying TBC. From everything I can find it is supposed to be MT2 however what is there now is hollow, I can get the current center out but it isn't MT2, just can't figure out what I'm missing?
Click to expand...

Is it possible that you just removed the center pin from the live center that came with the lathe and the body of the live center is still in the tailstock? The center pin on the stock lathe center is not MT2, but the live center itself should be (as well as the tailstock receiver).

Did you unwind to eject the livecenter (using the self eject feature) or did you try a knockout bar?

Ed
 
The lathe is at my dad's right now but I will check and get some pics next time I'm over. Don't think I can use knock out tool since hollow, bought the lathe used from local pawn shop so no one to ask about history etc.

edstreet comment made me think I should be going the other direction to retract. I've wound it clockwise I believe and the entire assembly came out, if I go the other direction does just the center come out. I'm sure I'm using incorrect terms.

However I do know what a morse taper 2 looks like and what came out is not MT2, so can anyone confirm it should be MT2?

Thanks!
 
You're going to feel some resistance when you get to the end...just crank about another half turn and "Pop"...you are done!
 
Definitely a M2

Warren,

I live in Lawrenceville.

Took a good ride today, up to Dahlonega and around to Jefferson and Winder.

Have a 1014. Definitely an M2.

Sounds like center point (removable-black) has been knocked out. I have some spares. Just use a rod in the hollow of the tail stock and tap it loose.
It could be rusted in place. In which case you should clean it, there is a tapered plastic device for cleaning the Morse Taper. Last I knew the one for M2 was pea green.

Charlie
 
CHARLES STOPCZYNSKI said:
Warren,

I live in Lawrenceville.

Took a good ride today, up to Dahlonega and around to Jefferson and Winder.

Have a 1014. Definitely an M2.

Sounds like center point (removable-black) has been knocked out. I have some spares. Just use a rod in the hollow of the tail stock and tap it loose.
It could be rusted in place. In which case you should clean it, there is a tapered plastic device for cleaning the Morse Taper. Last I knew the one for M2 was pea green.

Charlie
Click to expand...

It is the tapermate from CSUSA

Levi Woodard
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Forum Runner
 
CHARLES STOPCZYNSKI said:
Warren,

I live in Lawrenceville.

Took a good ride today, up to Dahlonega and around to Jefferson and Winder.

Have a 1014. Definitely an M2.

Sounds like center point (removable-black) has been knocked out. I have some spares. Just use a rod in the hollow of the tail stock and tap it loose.
It could be rusted in place. In which case you should clean it, there is a tapered plastic device for cleaning the Morse Taper. Last I knew the one for M2 was pea green.

Charlie
Click to expand...


You weren't far from me, I'm in Dawsonville off 9. Yesterday was gorgeous I bet it was a nice ride. I'll post up what I find when I can get to the shop this week. I think I'll be bringing the lathe home soon, have two young toddlers still taking naps and going to bed early so hard to find time to turn but a little at a time is a nice hobby for now.
 
Thanks again for the replies. It came out very easy, did have just a bit of hesitance at the end which is why I stopped before and went the other way : )

It is a hollow MT@ and the tip looks as if it can be replaced by others. Anyone know where you can purchase additional and different tips? Pics attached and thanks
 

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That looks like the stock live center from Jet. Don't use mine very much, never even realized the point came out. Usually use a 60 degree live center. Woodcraft sells one that looks a lot like it ($18), but I do not see any replacement points.
 
Dan Masshardt said:
What are you using that center for? It's no good for pen turning really.
Click to expand...

knowltoh PM sent thanks! Let me know on shipping costs or anything else I can do


Dan,
Just holding the tail end of the mandrel....came with the lathe and learning as I go but it's held the mandrel just fine, should it not be used for that?
 
southernclay said:
knowltoh PM sent thanks! Let me know on shipping costs or anything else I can do

Dan,
Just holding the tail end of the mandrel....came with the lathe and learning as I go but it's held the mandrel just fine, should it not be used for that?
Click to expand...

This center isn't a true 60 degree center. Our mandrels have a dimple for a 60 degree center.

Levi Woodard
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Forum Runner
 
What Levi said. You can possibly make due with it but it's not the best

Also, it may or may not have unacceptable runout. I've not tested my stock live center as I hardly ever use it.
 
Gotcha, makes sense, I've got a 60 degree live and dead center on the list of soon to get. A chuck too, I think I'll be getting the Nova G3 after seeing your post on it and others sounds like the way to go, got a 1/2" drill chuck in yesterday but starting to feel prepared enough to make it a legit hobby. Have the first few under my belt, have learned what not to do and feeling better with what to do with CA finish :smile: Have also learned to disassemble decently too haha.

Again thanks for all of the advice guys, great group!
 
southernclay said:
Gotcha, makes sense, I've got a 60 degree live and dead center on the list of soon to get. A chuck too, I think I'll be getting the Nova G3 after seeing your post on it and others sounds like the way to go, got a 1/2" drill chuck in yesterday but starting to feel prepared enough to make it a legit hobby. Have the first few under my belt, have learned what not to do and feeling better with what to do with CA finish :smile: Have also learned to disassemble decently too haha. Again thanks for all of the advice guys, great group!
Click to expand...
You are on the right track.
 
Pardon me for a minor hijack, but is the G3 useable on midi-type lathes? Also, what's the spread of the jaws? It's not listed on the link. I've been considering getting back into pipes again, but the smaller Nova chuck I have doesn't open up enough to allow a block of briar to fit.
 
hazmat74 said:
Pardon me for a minor hijack, but is the G3 useable on midi-type lathes? Also, what's the spread of the jaws? It's not listed on the link. I've been considering getting back into pipes again, but the smaller Nova chuck I have doesn't open up enough to allow a block of briar to fit.
Click to expand...

G3 will work on any lathe with the threads to accept it via an adapter. Certainly will work well with your rikon.

However, I'm not sure the chuck will open any further. You probably need to look at wider jaws rather than a different chuck

I thought you have the g3? Maybe you have the midi chuck with the tommy bars?
 
I have the midi chuck. Wouldn't any set of jaws only open up as far as the slides(no idea what the technical term for these are??) will allow them to? I'm only shy by about 1/4", if that. I was sort of bummed because I've never drilled a stummel on a lathe and would prefer to do it that way. My drill press does well enough, but the vise for it requires a bunch of goofing with to get things proper.

I have no problem owning more than one chuck or set of jaws, so I'm open to whatever options are available to me.
 
hazmat74 said:
I have the midi chuck. Wouldn't any set of jaws only open up as far as the slides(no idea what the technical term for these are??) will allow them to? I'm only shy by about 1/4", if that. I was sort of bummed because I've never drilled a stummel on a lathe and would prefer to do it that way. My drill press does well enough, but the vise for it requires a bunch of goofing with to get things proper. I have no problem owning more than one chuck or set of jaws, so I'm open to whatever options are available to me.
Click to expand...

Novas site has a chart I believe that will give you the specs on the capacity of the jaws.
 
hazmat74 said:
I have the midi chuck. Wouldn't any set of jaws only open up as far as the slides(no idea what the technical term for these are??) will allow them to? I'm only shy by about 1/4", if that. I was sort of bummed because I've never drilled a stummel on a lathe and would prefer to do it that way. My drill press does well enough, but the vise for it requires a bunch of goofing with to get things proper.

I have no problem owning more than one chuck or set of jaws, so I'm open to whatever options are available to me.
Click to expand...


Here is a link to the Nova jaw chart.
http://www.teknatool.com/products/chuck_accessories/Min-Max Ranges Jaw Table (inch).pdf
 
Thanks to you both!!

ETA: Doh... probably should have looked at what came with the chuck I have. It says they're 50mm jaws, which have a max capacity of 2.402, so those *may* work. I'm also noticing that I may have not gotten everything that came with the chuck when I bought the lathe. Nova's site says it comes with 50mm 2" spigot jaws, but I don't have those.
 
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