Celtic knot

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KenB259

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After the other days long discussion about all things Celtic knot, I had a hankering to turn one. I glued this blank up quite awhile ago. Woods are hickory, and chechen. The knot is holly and wenge . For the Celtic knot geeks, cuts were were done 1,3,2,4 and they were cut at 55 degrees. Cuts were all made as partial cuts, not all the way through. Infill thickness was .100, saw kerf is .102. Pen is a GT Knurl, my favorite pen to make and to use. Lots of meat for segmenting.
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jttheclockman

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Very nice. Did you clamp the ends to tighten the knot?? Just curious if you do that part. I agree that a knot between 52 and 55 degree is the perfect size especially if it takes the whole blank. What is your glue of choice??

I turned my green one last night so I could run a pilot bit through it getting ready to put on a kit. I need to cast the cap for it so still working on that one. Being I am back in the shop I have a few pen projects started so trying to catch up. Just cast some colored blanks that I need for a couple pens. Need to figure a simple segmenting to add some intrigue to them. Have an idea will see how it works out.
 

ramaroodle

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Good question! Ken, how snug are your "exact kerf" infills? Does your glue-up jig include parallel support along the sides of the block so you can apply a little pressure on the ends? I know jt said he didn't clamp and his lines were perfect like yours are.

Plus I'm going to introduce some steeper angles. All of mine are at 45 degs which gives you a round knot. Looks nice spread out on the blank. I could even laser engrave some initials in the space on either side of the X.
 

jttheclockman

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One of these days I am going to get enough nerve to spin this one. Brass and aluminum and the glue will show because that was what I used to glue metal to metal. I want to add some other detail for the ends but not sure what kit I want to put on. This is an oldie for sure. Probably 10 years ago if not longer.

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KenB259

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Very nice. Did you clamp the ends to tighten the knot?? Just curious if you do that part. I agree that a knot between 52 and 55 degree is the perfect size especially if it takes the whole blank. What is your glue of choice??

I turned my green one last night so I could run a pilot bit through it getting ready to put on a kit. I need to cast the cap for it so still working on that one. Being I am back in the shop I have a few pen projects started so trying to catch up. Just cast some colored blanks that I need for a couple pens. Need to figure a simple segmenting to add some intrigue to them. Have an idea will see how it works out.

No, I never clamp the ends. If your cuts are precise, you don't need clamps on these. The glue i used was titebond translucent.


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KenB259

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Good question! Ken, how snug are your "exact kerf" infills? Does your glue-up jig include parallel support along the sides of the block so you can apply a little pressure on the ends? I know jt said he didn't clamp and his lines were perfect like yours are.

Plus I'm going to introduce some steeper angles. All of mine are at 45 degs which gives you a round knot. Looks nice spread out on the blank. I could even laser engrave some initials in the space on either side of the X.

My infill are snug, but not tight. I know they are correct when the infill slides in easily but won't just fall out when turned upside down. I never clamp them unless I'm doing one that is cut through all the way.


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KenB259

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One of these days I am going to get enough nerve to spin this one. Brass and aluminum and the glue will show because that was what I used to glue metal to metal. I want to add some other detail for the ends but not sure what kit I want to put on. This is an oldie for sure. Probably 10 years ago if not longer.

View attachment 240428

Looks like it would be gorgeous.


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KenB259

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Very nice. Did you clamp the ends to tighten the knot?? Just curious if you do that part. I agree that a knot between 52 and 55 degree is the perfect size especially if it takes the whole blank. What is your glue of choice??

I turned my green one last night so I could run a pilot bit through it getting ready to put on a kit. I need to cast the cap for it so still working on that one. Being I am back in the shop I have a few pen projects started so trying to catch up. Just cast some colored blanks that I need for a couple pens. Need to figure a simple segmenting to add some intrigue to them. Have an idea will see how it works out.

I know you and I make these slightly differently, mostly when it comes to the drilling part. I know you turn them round before drilling, whereas I always drill them when they are square. We get pretty good results. I believe mine turn out well without turning them round first is because I make sure the blank is perfectly square before I even start. In fact I start every pen project with a square blank. I realized a long time ago that a square blank made a huge difference. I usually don't buy pen blanks, I prefer to cut my own. A couple of resins why. I like a larger blank than most pen blanks are. Mine usually are about .875 square and 6 inches long. That little bit extra length usually supplies me with usable end caps or barrels for two shorter pen barrels. Back to the drilling issue, I've stated here before, a stubby centering bit is a must have. My holes are never off center since getting one of these and I quit using brad point bits for the most part. Point is we all do things a little differently and we all get good results. I do really like hearing everyone's methodology. This got long and a little off topic.


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jttheclockman

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Ken I too always like to work with a square blank for just about any project. I have at times drilled them when they were in the square state but just find it easier to put in a collet chuck. I too use those stubby centering bits and always start my holes using them and then shift to a bit that is about the same size as that centering bit as my pilot hole. I just did that with the green one I had shown here. Getting ready to size if for a kit. Not sure which one yet but probably a majestic full size. Making the cap for it now. I never use brad point bits on pen blanks. Some vendors sell them with the kits and can not figure out why.
 
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