jttheclockman
Member
When you casters of resin out there do so with some sort of colors, do you have to adjust the hardener for the use of the liquids. If I wanted to make a stopper with say blue pearlescent bottom and a clear top what would be an example of a mixture??? Guessing each section of pour is about 2 ounces. What kind of colorant would you use and how much?? How much resin and hardener??? I am trying to get a feel of what to expect. In another post I wrote about a trial I made and used a transtint dye for wood but it did not color the resin the well and was nowhere near the color used. I also wound up with tiny bubbles in the clear portion. Have to try to work on that.
] I have been using the ultrasonic jewelery cleaner for the last couple of months (thanks Bruce Robbins) and I really like using it. Look back in the casting forum or do a search and you'll find info on its use. Now, for something I've not seen reported here. I read an article in a rod making magazine about making reel seats. The author had made some snake skin reel seats and here is what he had to say (and I paraphrase): all of the materials we embedd in polyester resin has air in it. As the resin cures the air tries to escape and some of it gets trapped by the curing resin before it can escape. So, the author suggests to use uncatalyzed resin in the mold and let is set for a couple of hours. This will allow the resin to completely saturate the embedded material and the air is displaced by the resin. Then, empty the resin from the mold and add catalyzed resin and cast as usual. He suspends his covered tubes with a string into a jar of resin. I have just been pouring uncatalyzed resin in my mold and leaving it for a couple of hours. I emptied it and let the skins drip for a few minutes and then casted as usual with catalyzed resin. I like the result I had and will try more this way. I still used the ultrasonic and then pressure cast. Check your email.