CASTING RESIN TEMP QUESTION

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firewhatfire

firewhatfire

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I have yet to cast anything as of yet. My question for those of you who have, has anyone ever tried to get the process to the point where you could use one of those laser thermometers to decide the perfect time to pour it in your mold? If it starts the reaction at 150 degrees would it not be easier to shoot the temp and pour at say 145?

Dont know any better than to ask, so shoot my idea down if you can:beat-up:

Thanks in advance

Phil
 
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DAMNED GOOD QUESTION!

I've got two or three of the IR themometers and it never even occured to me to pull 'em out and use them on resin temperature!

I have always resorted to the "well this worked last time method", which sorta works, depending on ambient temp, humidity,catalyst added, etc.

What a GREAT PIECE of information that would be....the temp where resin starts to gel...It really is a very linear process... Then you could get very precise.

Let's start a "gel set" timetable for the library! WOW! WOW! WOW! Thanks, Dude!

I always learn the most from the "new, what if.. guys"! This is a matter of simply watching the resin gel and measuring the temp rise process..
 
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PenMan1 said:
DAMNED GOOD QUESTION!

I've got two or three of the IR themometers and it never even occured to me to pull 'em out and use them on resin temperature!

I have always resorted to the "well this worked last time method", which sorta works, depending on ambient temp, humidity,catalyst added, etc.

What a GREAT PIECE of information that would be....the temp where resin starts to gel...It really is a very linear process... Then you could get very precise.

Let's start a "gel set" timetable for the library! WOW! WOW! WOW! Thanks, Dude!

I always learn the most from the "new, what if.. guys"! This is a matter of simply watching the resin gel and measuring the temp rise process..
Click to expand...


Hahahah, do you know why that is...???

The young brains have not yet been affected by the toxic fumes from the damn PR and other toxic products we use all the time and off-course, old age has not affected them yet so, the brain runs "cleaner" and can make sense of things that, we have in front of our eyes but, can't see it for being simply too simple...!!!:eek::biggrin:

Certainly, something that I will use my gadget on, next time I'm casting, even if just for curiosity sake...!:wink:

Good thinking, 99...!:smile:

Cheers
George
 
If that works, I'll havta go buy a new tool.:biggrin:
elefant.gif
 
Are we talking about the snap on type point and shoot temp gauge gun?

Very good idea now how do I get it out of my dads shop:). Who sells these that ate not a million $ ?
 
PenMan1 said:
DAMNED GOOD QUESTION!

I've got two or three of the IR themometers and it never even occured to me to pull 'em out and use them on resin temperature!

I have always resorted to the "well this worked last time method", which sorta works, depending on ambient temp, humidity,catalyst added, etc.

What a GREAT PIECE of information that would be....the temp where resin starts to gel...It really is a very linear process... Then you could get very precise.

Let's start a "gel set" timetable for the library! WOW! WOW! WOW! Thanks, Dude!

I always learn the most from the "new, what if.. guys"! This is a matter of simply watching the resin gel and measuring the temp rise process..
Click to expand...


Well, you need to tell me if it works or not before I go spend the money on it!! LOL!!

Save us Andy!
 
Perhaps a small digital, rapid acting thermometer with a probe that you could put a little silicon "sleeve" around and place into the resin itself.

How hot does the resin get?
 
arw01 said:
Perhaps a small digital, rapid acting thermometer with a probe that you could put a little silicon "sleeve" around and place into the resin itself.

How hot does the resin get?
Click to expand...

I believe I read somewhere at some point that the S41 kicks off at ~150F. I could be wrong though.....:confused:
 
Well, we can all get "fancy" and get the temp gauge that has a stainless steal fine probe that you can insert into the resin and watch every degree going up, most of these instruments have a set alarm that will activate (ring/buzzz) when that set temp is reached, just in case you are not watching...!

Cheers
George
 

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George:
I have several of the IR "touchless" digital thermometer. They are all very accurate at 3 feet (even the cheapest $30 one).

But perhaps the thing here would be the "talking" or "beeping" grill thermometers with stainless probes that say when meat is done.

Now that Father's Day is over and July 4th is just days away, on July 5. Lowes, HD, Wal-mart who always buy way too many of these, should put them on close out for $5 or so dollars
 
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PenMan1 said:
George:
I have several of the IR "touchless" digital thermometer. They are all very accurate at 3 feet (even the cheapest $30 one).

But perhaps the thing here would be the "talking" or "beeping" grill thermometers with stainless probes that say when meat is done.

Now that Father's Day is over and July 4th is just days away, on July 5. Lowes, HD, Wal-mart who always buy way too many of these, should put them on close out for $5 or so dollars
Click to expand...

Absolutely, I have a few temp reading instruments for work done in the pass, and these gauges come handy, every so often.

There are a large number of possibilities for the purpose of casting and believe it or not, some of the people that are producing constant acrylic blanks, have been using the temp probe for a long time but, that has been one of the tools for success that they didn't want anyone to know. The "trick" is old but never mentioned...!:eek::wink:

The most critical secret of casting is the exact time of the resins various setting stages, right to the unworkability (solid[ish]), knowing that exact time will produce constant results, the next secret is the mixing/pouring techniques that completely change the final results, such as the molds shapes...!:wink:

So much to learn and so little time...!:frown::smile:

Cheers
George
 
That's too much work to go thru. If you make sure that your resin is heated to 150° and your molds/blanks to the same temp, all should be fine. 3 drops of catalyst per ounce and add one for extra measure.
 
Seamus:
My biggest problem when making "burl and swirl" PR blanks is deciding exactly when to add the different colors.

Too soon, and the heaviest resin just sinks to the bottom or if they are all similar weights, they combine with the other colors and make a new unintended color, instead of becoming three of four intermingled colors.

Too late and the heated resin comes out in a blob rendering it useless.

When I hit it at exactly the right time they are much prettier.
 
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Thought about it a few years ago.

Good luck with doing it. When doing a 3 or more color cast, you don't have time to fiddle around with testing temps. It all comes with practice. Different colors will gel before others...knowing this helps.
I know when I need to pour depending on the effect I want.
 
DozerMite said:
Thought about it a few years ago.

Good luck with doing it. When doing a 3 or more color cast, you don't have time to fiddle around with testing temps. It all comes with practice. Different colors will gel before others...knowing this helps.
I know when I need to pour depending on the effect I want.
Click to expand...

Mike:
I have moved down this road pretty good. If i am pouring 3 colors, that means 6 cups. Pour the first color, leave the other five uncatalized in the ultrasonic warming bath. Then at the exact time, catalyse and pour color 2 while the others remain uncatalysed. Then pour color 3, the repeat. It gets the colors the way I want, but with this much juggling, knowing the point just before the last pour starts to gel would be VALUABLE information.

There HAS TO BE A WAY!
 
As a beginner it would be a help I would think at least in saving the loss ratio. You 3+ color pouring pros have a better handle on it I would guess. I only saw 1 blank being poured in my career. Just trying to save the next guy some guess work.

Hope someone figures it out and post it so I can know whether or not to get one of the thermometers.
 
Phil:
Thanks for your original post! It got a bunch of us ole farts thinking! A one color cast and a four color cast are exactly the same.........EXCEPT, you need 8 hands and a couple of temp reading devices.

To tell the truth, your simple question got me thinking, and I am already a better caster because of your post.
 
PenMan1 said:
DozerMite said:
Thought about it a few years ago.

Good luck with doing it. When doing a 3 or more color cast, you don't have time to fiddle around with testing temps. It all comes with practice. Different colors will gel before others...knowing this helps.
I know when I need to pour depending on the effect I want.
Click to expand...

Mike:
I have moved down this road pretty good. If i am pouring 3 colors, that means 6 cups. Pour the first color, leave the other five uncatalized in the ultrasonic warming bath. Then at the exact time, catalyse and pour color 2 while the others remain uncatalysed. Then pour color 3, the repeat. It gets the colors the way I want, but with this much juggling, knowing the point just before the last pour starts to gel would be VALUABLE information.

There HAS TO BE A WAY!
Click to expand...


With your process and 6 cups, the first color would be gelled before the last color was catalyzed. So why would you need to know when the last color is about to gel? It might work for you but, that would never work for me. Mine are gelled within 3 minutes of pouring. They are out of the mold within 45 minutes of pouring. Knowing the temp. would be useless for me.

A single color cast is NOTHING like a multi-color cast.
A single color can be mixed and poured... nothing to worry about wasting. No timing, no need to know a temp., or when it will gel.

Everyone has a different path to get to the same destination, some paths are just shorter.
 
DozerMite said:
PenMan1 said:
DozerMite said:
Thought about it a few years ago.

Good luck with doing it. When doing a 3 or more color cast, you don't have time to fiddle around with testing temps. It all comes with practice. Different colors will gel before others...knowing this helps.
I know when I need to pour depending on the effect I want.
Click to expand...

Mike:
I have moved down this road pretty good. If i am pouring 3 colors, that means 6 cups. Pour the first color, leave the other five uncatalized in the ultrasonic warming bath. Then at the exact time, catalyse and pour color 2 while the others remain uncatalysed. Then pour color 3, the repeat. It gets the colors the way I want, but with this much juggling, knowing the point just before the last pour starts to gel would be VALUABLE information.

There HAS TO BE A WAY!
Click to expand...


With your process and 6 cups, the first color would be gelled before the last color was catalyzed. So why would you need to know when the last color is about to gel? It might work for you but, that would never work for me. Mine are gelled within 3 minutes of pouring. They are out of the mold within 45 minutes of pouring. Knowing the temp. would be useless for me.

A single color cast is NOTHING like a multi-color cast.
A single color can be mixed and poured... nothing to worry about wasting. No timing, no need to know a temp., or when it will gel.

Everyone has a different path to get to the same destination, some paths are just shorter.
Click to expand...


AND, the path is even shorter when your ride the short school bus! That'd be me:)
 
I don't need to know when THE LAST COLOR is about to gel (i can manipulate unpoured, uncatalysed colors until the very last seconds). In my world, the last color is irrelevant. What I do need to know is 30 seconds before the LAST COLOR POURED is about to gel.

When I can jump that hurdle (may be impossible?), my blank making moves into another sphere!
 
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So you want to pour in layers?
I like to swirl and create patterns. That is difficult if you pour in layers and they are gelling before adding the next color.
It isn't impossible to know it's going to gel. I do it every pour. It's in the timing. And it's time to go pour.:biggrin:
 
Every blank we pour (except Signature Luxury Black Resin) is poured in at least 3 colors (six layers, so the color and texture are consistent from one side of the blank to the other).

If I can find the 30 second point before each layer "gels" I can make ribbons without the hassle of making ribbons. We are one "flash of greatness" away from making that happen.

You are exactly correct, Sir! each color gels at a different rate. IF I can find that "30 before" moment, I can make ribbon blanks without making ribbons.
 
DozerMite said:
You will figure it out! Looking forward to seeing your results.:wink:
Click to expand...


Three years of trying, a few BUCKETS of resin later, still TRYING... we only pour a handful of custom, signature colors. IF I can find the flash point of each of our colors, it will get easier AND opens many new windows or opportunity!

Thanks for the vote of confidence. As I know you are aware, this is not your "put all your favoite colors in the blank and swirl and see what happens" process:biggrin:
 
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