Casting PR

[bonefish]

This is a two part question. One, how do you turn the snakeskin blanks? Do you turn it down to the shape you want until there is a thin layer of PR left covering the snake skins? I can't tell from the pictures, but I don't think anyone would turn it all the way down to the snake skin.

I want to turn some wood blanks to final dimensions, cast them, and turn them so that there is a thin protective coat of resin protecting the wood, if this is feasable.

The other question is about Snakewood.

I have read the articles on snakewood cracking. Today, I was looking through some old boxes and found a piece of very nice snakewood that I purchased about 25 years ago. This is a 1 inch by 1 inch by six inch stick, and I paid $25.00 for it 25 years ago. For that price, that long ago, it should be nice.

At the time, I also purchased some some other, and cheaper pieces, but I don't know if all of it was from the same tree.

I tried the plain pieces, and they cracked within a week. I would like to use the fancy piece, and I would like to ask if anyone knows how to prevent it from cracking. There is one small crack in the top, but it doesn't seem to go all the way through, and it hasn't gotten any worse over the past 25 years. I think the crack is shallow enough that I can turn the wood and completely remove all traces of the crack.

I have made knives for about 30 years, and I used exotic wood for the handles, so I know a little bit about finishing rosewood, cocobola, and other oily woods, and I am willing to share what little knowledge I have, if anyone is interested.

These wooden handles were finished primarily for durability, but some of them were attractive, too.

I have been making pens off and on for about 10 years.

Both the knifemaking and penmaking are non-profit enterprises, but I enjoy doing it. Neither craft was meant to be non-profit, but that's how it worked out.

Robert Rogers
Canton, Georgia

 

[its_virgil]

Originally posted by bonefish
<br />This is a two part question. One, how do you turn the snakeskin blanks? Do you turn it down to the shape you want until there is a thin layer of PR left covering the snake skins? I can't tell from the pictures, but I don't think anyone would turn it all the way down to the snake skin.<b>Turn the snake skin blanks as you would any other plastic or acrylic. Turn so the ends match the bushing size and do whatever you want between the buahings...just like any other material. The only kit that has given me troubles is the ElGrande and the Ligero. The finished thickness on these two pens is thin and turning into the skin itself is a real possibility. I turn these a little larger than the bushing one the ends and round over the edges. </b>

I want to turn some wood blanks to final dimensions, cast them, and turn them so that there is a thin protective coat of resin protecting the wood, if this is feasable. <b>Yes, but I suggest to turn the wood to "below bushing thickenss", cast and turn the resin to the thickness you would other materials.</b>

The other question is about Snakewood.

I have read the articles on snakewood cracking. <b>My opinion on snakewood is to cut, drill, and turn the pen to almost finished. Let it crack and repair the crack(s) with sanding dust and thin CA. Finish turning and assemble the pen. The crack is not noticeable and the ones I've done don't usually crack any more. Snakewood is a beautiful wood and the cracking issue should not keep us from turning pens from it and enjoying the fruits of our labor.
Do a good turn daily!
Don</b>

 

[BUGSY]

hey bonefish ...will you be going to the blade show in atlanta next month??knifemaking sure is addicting isnt it...bugsy

 

[btboone]

Bugsy, what are the details of the show? When, where, etc?

 

[bonefish]

Thanks, all.

Bugsy:

I won't be going. I haven't been in several years. One reason, you can hardly walk the isles.

The other reason, though, is that I haven't made a knife in several years. They sold good for a long time, then everything went sky high. Very few have $200.00 to spend on a knife when they have to buy $3.00 a gallon gas, and also have some hungry kids at home.

Addictive? When I made them regular, I lived and breathed knives. While at work, I would draw different designs I wanted to try, and could hardly wait until quitting time to get home and start grinding. The piece of snake wood mentioned above was originally purchased to be used for a knife handle.

I mentioned wart hog tusk on another post. I have made a few folders using this material, and they were beautiful. I want to make a wart hog pen, but it is way down the list.

It is just my opinion, but for general use, wart hog tusk is much more practical than elephant ivory. It won't crack, and it won't turn yellow. British gunmakers used it for the front sights on big game rifles because it wouldn't turn yellow, as ivory will.

Robert

Robert

 

[BUGSY]

bonefish sorry to hear that you are not going ....i understand what you are saying about being crowded ,,,BUT I LOVE IT...

 

[BUGSY]

BTboone the ..bladeshow.. is a industry trade show with production and custom knifemakers from around the world..it is held at.. cobb galleria center.. roughly 100000 square feet of knives..check out www.bladeshow.com another show that you might be interested in is the knifemakers guild show in orlando fla.. walt disney world..it has about 400 custom makers with knifes from 150.00 to 15000.00 $$ BOTH shows will have suppliers and engravers .scrimshanders and etc...BY THE WAY TITANIUM IS BEING USED IN ALOT OF KNIVES NOW..possible business for you??? by the way ..use to own a production machine shop myself..4 mori-seiki sl-6 and 3 mv55 mills with fanuc controls and 2 mazak quickturns with conversational controls...GOD I MISS IT.. IF I CAN ANSWER ANY OF QUESTIONS FOR YA LET ME KNOW...SORRY BONEFISH FOR HIJACKING YOUR POST....BUGSY

 

[Paul Downes]

I've been turning snakewood pens for a year or so and have not had any blanks crack after the pen was finished. I am very careful to back the drill out every 1/16 to 1/8" and I squirt water in the hole every time I back the drill out. Also I sand the square blank down at the ends, being careful not to sand under the finished diameter, before I mill the ends square. This is to eliminate as much friction as possible so that I don't blow the corners off when milling. I think the water is not an issue because I use poly glue (water activated) and the friction of sanding and polishing dries the blank out. I've got an 18" log half that's going under the knife (bandsaw) soon.

 

[bonefish]

Hey Bugsy:

Feel free to add comments anytime. I joined this site to learn about turning, finishing, polishing or most anything else.

As far as I'm concerned, the more input, the better.

 

[btboone]

I will be interested to see the state of the art at the blade show. I'm sure there is plenty to learn about wood finishing, metals, and acrylics that those guys have already made a science. I'm sure a lot of their techniques will relate to pens.