casings?

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guts

guts

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I glued some 5/16 copper tubes in a 30.06 casing with c.a.,powder coated them and the tubes came loose,looked like the ca was baked and broke loose any ideas what i did wrong,should i use a different type of glue? thanks.
 
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CA isnt made to hold two pieces of metal together. If you go that route, I'd use something like loc-tite. But, I've never done it the way your are doing.
 
The temperature that you cure the PC at is too hot for the CA. It will melt. If you have a trapped air pocket created by the tube and casing it will try to expand when heated and push the, now liquid, CA out of the joint. DAMHIKT It would be better to apply the PC first then glue the tube in the casing.

Paul in AR
 
Originally posted by Fangar
<br />Drill and polish. PC, then Powdercoat. All other ways will fail.

Fangar
Click to expand...

Actually no you can use JB weld which is heat resistant to over 400 degrees, there is also epoxy putty that is resisitant to 600 degrees.
I have experimented with this method but found it doesn't guarantee that all parts are concentric to center.
Though in theory it may appear easier, the finished barrel is also heavier than one with a wood core a wood core .(DAMHIKT)
I decided to stick to doing them the way I started a year and a half ago.
I don't trust any adheasive in a shear joint.
 
I tried JB Weld recently and it failed as I used 450 Degrees to flow. It was better than CA, but it was a mess to work with too.

I have found the only way to do it cleanly is to PC prior to any gluing. Practice keeps the glue off of the brass in time.

Fangar
 
I agree about the mess.
I thoght I had a "assembly line" technique thought out using adhesive I just don't trust the bond.
 
Originally posted by Skye
<br />Have you ever heard of this stuff called Lab-Metal?
Click to expand...
Looks like interesting stuff and would probably work a lot better than CA on casing pens. I think I'll order some.
 
originally from Eagle's post:
I decided to stick to doing them the way I started a year and a half ago.
I don't trust any adheasive in a shear joint.
------------
Ok Eagle I'll bite, how have you been doing them for the past 1 1/2 years? I have been using 2-part epoxy.
Thanks in advance
 
Originally posted by Jerryconn
<br />originally from Eagle's post:
I decided to stick to doing them the way I started a year and a half ago.
I don't trust any adheasive in a shear joint.
------------
Ok Eagle I'll bite, how have you been doing them for the past 1 1/2 years? I have been using 2-part epoxy.
Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Drill out the end of the casing, turn a wooden core dab of glue for insurance but the wood core "press fits in" The solid wood core is lighter than an arrow shaft, the bond at the neck where it tapers is very strong.
 
After looking at more of the informaton about Lab-Metal, I don't think I'll waste the money. It says it bonds permanently but that you can't use it to "glue" two parts together, meaning it has no shear strength. I guess it's called a filler for a reason.
 
Originally posted by guts
<br />Eagle,do you then drill and add the tubes or do you just use the wood and eleminate the tubes all together?
Click to expand...
Glue the tube into a hardwood blank.Treat as any other pen blank.
Mill etc.
Turn it to fit inside the casing,
(this is not a tutorial, I gave you the cliffs note version of how I do it)
I can put just about any kit in any casing (with a little bit of modification here and there.
I am not limited to slimlines and 30-06
!8K gold winchester 338's with wart hog tops, zebra wood boxes


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