Thanks fo rthe input so far. I also have some very basic questions. Assume the square cutter for these. For the record, I believe it is the flat top with straight edges. Not sure of the angle.
Do you rest the tool flat on the toolrest or do you rotate it a bit?
Do you just push the tool straight into the wood or do you angle in and try to ride the bevel?
Where do you want the blade to meet the wood, at center or above center?
The corners always seem to dig in for me. Should I go to the square cutters with a small radius or is there an approach that minimizes this dig in?
I am hoping if I can read how it is supposed to be used then I will have a starting point to start my practicing. Thanks for any further help.
I believe the cutting edge of the two tools I use are very similar to yours. I've been using them for a couple of years with success. I know they WILL work for you...BUT...don't expect them to work like the tools sold by the good folks here. Most don't have straight edge square cutters, and the very non-agressive 83 deg (as best I can measure it) angle. Using both tools I get good results on both wood and acrylic. If you're going to stick with these tools here's what I recommend.
Adjust the tool height to cut just below center as you present the tool level with the floor. My tools will NOT cut above centerline...they just rub on the bevel.
Adjust the tool rest to keep it close to the blank as you turn it down. This supports the tool better, and helps prevent catches. I'll often do this when I get about 2/3 roughed away.
The square tool is
NOT suitable for roughing. The combination of the non-agressive angle, and the broad edge, makes for poor cutting action. Only use the round tool for roughing. I get chips flying off wood and ribbons peeling off acrylic when using the round tool. However, the round tool will not leave a real smooth surface. Use it to get close to your finish profile, then switch to the square tool.
Hold the square tool level, but don't present it straight on to the blank. Angle it such that it touches the blank close to, but not touching the corner of the bit, then rotate it close to the other corner of the bit. Repeat this action back and forth along the lenght of the blank until your finished profile is reached. This action removes thin shavings of material, leveling and smoothing the blank as you go along. It'll take a little practice, but once you get it down it goes pretty quickly.
I hope this helps. PM me if you have any questions.