Car polishing compound usable for acrylic?

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jbswearingen

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Dec 10, 2008
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752
Location
Bowie, MD
Before I go and buy some sort of plastic polish, I have both rubbing compound and polishing compound in liquid form for car clear coat. Will this work for acrylics or do I need to buy a plastic-dedicated polish?

Sanding through 12000 on the MM still leaves very fine scratches.
 
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Try McQuires PlastX. It it $4.79 for 12 ounces (Wal-Mart). It is about the same as Novus III, except the cheapest I have found Novus III is $4.69 for 8 ounces.

PlastiX works GREAT!!!!

IMHO, Dupont Polishing Compound has TOO MUCH GRIT. Plastix is really a Lexan Windshield polish or "taillight restorer".
 
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Andy, my friend, you DO realize 8 oz will do a couple hundred pens???

Now, I am CHEAP! But, I toss away a couple bucks for plastic polish at the drop of a hat---bet I have 10 kinds in my shop!!

All of them work--some better than others--but NONE figured into the cost of my pens---sandpaper is more expensive!!! (And IT is CHEAP!!)

So why did I buy so many? Kept hoping one would be MUCH better than the rest----none were. (IMNHO)
 
Try McQuires PlastX. It it $4.79 for 12 ounces (Wal-Mart). It is about the same as Novus III, except the cheapest I have found Novus III is $4.69 for 8 ounces.

PlastiX works GREAT!!!!

IMHO, Dupont Polishing Compound has TOO MUCH GRIT. Plastix is really a Lexan Windshield polish or "taillight restorer".


I'm heading to Wally World now for other stuff. I'll look for this. Thanks!
 
The only Plastx they had was part of a lens renewal kit with a terry cloth and buffing pad...for $16. I'll try my polishing compound and if that doesn't work I'll go to Advance Auto tomorrow to find it.

Thanks, all!
 
I use marine cleaner/restorer and a marine cleaner wax, both Dupont. They work great. They are made for fiberglass/gelcoat and then finish up with PlastX. Many times I don't even need to use the Micro Mesh. Just a light touch with the skew.
Car waxes seem to work as well. You already got it, Try it and see where it takes you.
 
I also use PlastX, but I've not seen it at Wally World....get it at Auto Supply stores, like Shucks or Pep Boys. Look there first. I use it on all of my Acrylic Pens and also on my CA finishes on wood. It works great!!!
---Rich
 
Andy, my friend, you DO realize 8 oz will do a couple hundred pens???

Now, I am CHEAP! But, I toss away a couple bucks for plastic polish at the drop of a hat---bet I have 10 kinds in my shop!!

All of them work--some better than others--but NONE figured into the cost of my pens---sandpaper is more expensive!!! (And IT is CHEAP!!)

So why did I buy so many? Kept hoping one would be MUCH better than the rest----none were. (IMNHO)


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You DO REALIZE that I go through a bottle of Novus, EVERY WEEK, and a bottle of PlastX every week and a half.

AND, By the way, if you are using SANDPAPER, YOU are Pizzing away money!!!! Abranet lasts almost, forever!!!! If you sold it , I'd buy it from you. But, I got it from Wolftat, 2 years ago! when it wears out, I'll buy more.:biggrin:

AND FOR THE RECORD, a shot of NOVUS II (I think it is the best "rough" polish on the market ) and a shot of PlaxtX = 16 cents per pen!!!! I usually make somewhere between 80 and 100 pens per week, thats $16!

NOW YOU ARE GETTING INTO MY LUNCH MONEY....TACO VIVA, 2 tacos and a draft $3. That savings is a week of "lunch money":biggrin:.

Mamma (who actually owns the Write Stuff Pen Works and Custom Pen shop.com and PimpMyPen.com) runs a tight ship! YOU WANNA EXPLAIN IT TO HER!:biggrin:
 
Holy cow, Andy, you must turn a LOT of pens. I'm happy to make 5-8 a week! And lucky if I make 2 that are worth selling!


You do what you gotta do! I make a lot of the same "stuff". PenWife1 pours the blanks, orders what I need, keeps me focused and and "on production". So far, today, I started at 10:00 am and so far, I got 15 of "nothing special", but looking at past performances, proven "winners".

When you have to do this to pay the bills, you make what sells, no matter if you like it or not! IT TAKES ALL OF THE FUN OUT OF IT! Be careful about wishing you could make pens "all the time".

I getting ready for a new lathe.....you DON'T want to buy my old one:biggrin:
 
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Holy cow, Andy, you must turn a LOT of pens. I'm happy to make 5-8 a week! And lucky if I make 2 that are worth selling!


You do what you gotta do! I make a lot of the same "stuff". PenWife1 pours the blanks, orders what I need, keeps me focused and and "on production". So far, today, I started at 10:00 am and so far, I got 15 of "nothing special", but looking at past performances, proven "winners".

When you have to do this to pay the bills, you make what sells, no matter if you like it or not! IT TAKES ALL OF THE FUN OUT OF IT! Be careful about wishing you could make pens "all the time".

I getting ready for a new lathe.....you DON'T want to buy my old one:biggrin:


Yeah, I hear ya. I don't want this to turn into a "job". If it'll buy me new toys, er, uh, tools for my shop, I'll be happy.
 
If it's a job it ain't fun,

:wink:Penman1, I applaud you if you can turn pens, sell them and make a living. I enjoy turning pens and selling them, as long as it does not become a job. I had a web site once and couldn't keep up with the demand, it became a job and not fun. Now, no web site, it's fun again. But as a professional pilot, I don't need the money, anything I make off of pens goes to Wounded Warrior Project.
 
Holy cow, Andy, you must turn a LOT of pens. I'm happy to make 5-8 a week! And lucky if I make 2 that are worth selling!


You do what you gotta do! I make a lot of the same "stuff". PenWife1 pours the blanks, orders what I need, keeps me focused and and "on production". So far, today, I started at 10:00 am and so far, I got 15 of "nothing special", but looking at past performances, proven "winners".

When you have to do this to pay the bills, you make what sells, no matter if you like it or not! IT TAKES ALL OF THE FUN OUT OF IT! Be careful about wishing you could make pens "all the time".

I getting ready for a new lathe.....you DON'T want to buy my old one:biggrin:

Andy,

I don't think it if the question about wishing you could make pens all the time, rather than the fact you sell that many at a time. Plus I know you long enough that you actually make a profit at each pen too. Which I am proud to do too, just at a microscopic scale compared to your volume.
 
Your clear coat polish will work, it was designed to polish a high tech version of plastic. Try it, the worst thing that can happen is, it will not shine as much as you will like. When I first started turning pens I used DuPont white polishing compound, it worked great, but I find Novus ll, for me, works better.
 
Marine polishes by McGuires and Dupont work just fine. The problem for me (and I was the General Sales Manager of a yacht and boat super store) is that even at wholesale pricing, all of those products are still over $16 a pint.

If you want finish materials from the boating center, the plastic windshield restorer (McGuires) is about $6 for 8 ounces and works better.

Additionally, I found that the "headlight rejuvenation system" that apparently didn't sell very well on TV ads was available at my CVS pharmacy at clearance for $5. AND, it comes with the "magic" towel that works well for cleaning fingerprints at shows.
 
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I long ago moved to three different 'grits' of car polish to finish our resin pens and stoppers. In my opinion, they work as good or better than novus. They are also much less expensive and I can buy them locally rather than have them shipped (or be forced to pay too darn much at the nearby woodcraft store).
 
Oh, to get back to you guys--the McGuire's polishing compound works great. Until I run out of it (maybe 15 years from now), I'll use it and then buy some PlastX.
 
The problem with all of those products is, they are liquid and being applied on the lathe. That still leaves radial scratches. Yes, they are a bit finer and you might think they are gone, but take a pic with plenty of light (outside in the sun) and you will see what I'm saying.

The automotive products don't even do a good job on tail lights and the like as advertised. They only shine the high spots and do nothing for the craizing. To do tail lights, properly, it's much more involved than a one step product, just as with a pen finish.

The only effective way to eliminate or reduce the appearance of the scratches, is to buff with the proper method. Buffing not only reduces scratches, but also the time required to get a finish you are striving for. NO MM and only 30 seconds to a glass finish. OK, for most, it will probably take several minutes until you get comfortable with it.

My $.00 (with the economy, I have to save my pennies)...
 
if you have dentures like me it wont work on polishing pens so buy atube of toothpaste like i had to and it works fine also if you get a visitor who has forgotten theirtoothpaste you canhelp them out
 
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