Can't get rid of cutting "rings" Walnut this week..

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Phillip Kelley

Phillip Kelley

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As hard as I try I can't seem to get rid of those rings! The bowl looked halfway decent until I saw the rings on the screen! Any ideas?:confused:
(The Walnut bowl is 3" x 9")
 

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I have the SAME issue.. sigh.. the only thing that has helped me is I use carbide and one motion from the side clear down and across to the middle. Then I sand with a 2 inch sander.. from 80 grit to 320.. and then I look at it again.. and often start over at 80 and resand. I know there has to be a better way, but my thinking is that for me it is lack of skill at this point and I am hoping the more I turn the better I get. :)
 
I have had decent luck with a soft density disc holder mounted on a drill. The short fall is that it is hard on drills but the cheapest variable sped harbor freight drill lasts well and can be replaced fairly cheaply. I use the velcro holder and sanding discs and sand thru 800 grit.
 
Phillip Kelley said:
As hard as I try I can't seem to get rid of those rings! The bowl looked halfway decent until I saw the rings on the screen! Any ideas?:confused:
(The Walnut bowl is 3" x 9")
Click to expand...

Getting really good control of your bowl gouge and having smooth fluid motion is the best way to deal with this problem. But that doesn't happen overnight. Also make sure your tool rest is free of nicks, bumps or anything else that may inhibit a smooth motion while turning.

Until then, using a large radius shear scraper is a lot easier than tryig to sand out the ridges. Something like the sorby multi tip shear scraper with the tear drop cutter attached. That what I used to use. It's not as cheap as sandpaper, but then if you go through enough sandpaper and burn up enough drills....and then there is all the time that sanding takes....and the dust....and the probability that sanding won't get rid of the ridges anyway.

Packard Woodworks: The Woodturner's Source: Multi-Tip Shear Scraper
 
Phillip Kelley said:
As hard as I try I can't seem to get rid of those rings! The bowl looked halfway decent until I saw the rings on the screen! Any ideas?:confused:
(The Walnut bowl is 3" x 9")
Click to expand...

G'day mate,

Ed McDonnell, has gave you a excellent tool suggestion. The other toll that will improve that sort of work is the 18mm round carbide tip, that you can make the shaft and handle for or buy the tool already made, there is someone on IAP that makes them...!

Those ridges are created by a tool that is too pointed, not exactly ending in a point but with a very small tip radius. If you use a bowl gouge, sharpen it right and then try to use the tool on its bevel and backwards, in a scraping action, very gentle touch and interrupted if possible, start at the middle/centre and come back towards the piece edge, slow but not too slow as you are taken thin passes, only...!

Sure, I would also suggest the flap disc or the 2" sanding pads either on the grinder or on a dr

If you ever consider to buy a proper flap disc sander that will me sanding the inside of the bowls, a breeze, buy one of these, Proxxon LHW Long Neck Angle Grinder - Modelling Tools - Modelling - Woodturning & Crafts | Axminster Tools & Machinery they are the "business"...!:biggrin:

Cheers
George
 
Pretty sure you can't get a bowl gouge into that tight radius anyway. A scraper or power sanding is the way to go. Consider a bowl shape that has a smoother curve up to the rim like this 14" soft maple bowl. Lots easier and more artistic in my opinion.
 

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Sanding through the grits and checking before each new grit will help you see if you are smoothing out the tool cuts. Sometimes you get fooled and have to go back. Walnut is a softer wood and you can recover while on the lathe but you have to see it first, good lighting and feel help. Sometimes I will wet the problem area to raise the grain a bit and that helps to even out the hard spots.
 
Forgive me as this isn't an answer but more of a Q...never have turned a bowl so just inquiring...can you hand sand thru different grits with the grain to minimize those rings or is it too time consuming and not worth the trouble?
 
Phillip, Thank you for posting this as it looks like many of us have the same issue and you are getting some great suggestions. I struggle with ridges in bowls on almost everyone I make.
 
Sometimes it is really hard to get those rings out. One thing that I have some success with is to use my 1/2" bowl gouge for 95% of the bowl and then I take a few final passes with a 3/8" bowl gouge. I also put a 'relief' bevel on the back of the gouge. This means less metal is in contact with the wood and less chance of burning or ring marks.

This photo is not mine but it gives you an idea of what I mean:smile:
 

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You can also try an ocilating tool which they sell at HF pretty cheap and keep the bowl turning pretty slow on the lathe. Go through all of the grits which should get rid of small tool marks. If these are more than a few .001 high/deep you will have to go back over them with a very sharp tool first at high RPM and very light cuts.
 
Different approach on a maple bowl

There was a lot of information & suggestions that I tried to incorporate on a maple bowl that I will try to post in the morning. 1) I spent more time sharpening my bowl gouge, 2) I also sharpened the large scraper, 3) I would have liked to change the shape of the bowl as suggested but it was already hollowed out ( the sharp interior radius does make it difficult to get the gouge to cut) so on future bowls I am going to make them with a "softer" radius, 4) I did start using a round carbide to make the last finishing cut and then, 5) I found my small 2" madrel & sanded from 80 grit to 320...starting @ 80 grit made a huge difference...Thanks for all of the help...I really didn't realize that many do a lot of sanding.....(passive didn't work):biggrin:
 
There is one other practice use to minimise the turning ridges and or deep marks from the sanding, and that is, turn your lathe in reverse. This will only work for those with a lathe that allows reverse but, to those that have one, the next time you are turning a bowl, particularly if is a deep one, try to do the final cuts with the lathe in reverse, the tool, and and tool rest position will change and I find that, being right handed, I get great control and finishes, this way...!

You will certainly lose nothing, for trying...!

Cheers
George
 
robutacion said:
There is one other practice use to minimise the turning ridges and or deep marks from the sanding, and that is, turn your lathe in reverse. This will only work for those with a lathe that allows reverse but, to those that have one, the next time you are turning a bowl, particularly if is a deep one, try to do the final cuts with the lathe in reverse, the tool, and and tool rest position will change and I find that, being right handed, I get great control and finishes, this way...!

You will certainly lose nothing, for trying...!

Cheers
George
Click to expand...

Interesting. I may have to try this approach.
 
Ambidex said:
Forgive me as this isn't an answer but more of a Q...never have turned a bowl so just inquiring...can you hand sand thru different grits with the grain to minimize those rings or is it too time consuming and not worth the trouble?
Click to expand...

Maybe in a day or two of sanding. You'll have to use finger tips or something to get in there to sand those out.
 
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