azamiryou
Member
:curse::at-wits-end::thunder::at-wits-end::curse:
This apparently happened in between measuring the components and turning the barrels. I now have three sets of barrels .023" undersize.
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:curse::at-wits-end::thunder::at-wits-end::curse:
This apparently happened in between measuring the components and turning the barrels. I now have three sets of barrels .023" undersize.![]()
I clean and check zero each time too.I've gotten in the habit of checking zero and wiping clean the measuring faces before each use.
I also have digital calipers (from Little Machine Shop), but don't like them as much as this dual-dial set. Personal preference, I guess, I just find the dial quicker and easier to use.
Unfortunately, this set isn't made to be adjustable, as I can't seem to reliably disengage the pinion. I can rotate the face to change the zero point, but I still need to get the pinion engaged at a point where the needles are lined up when it's closed.
Edit: just saw your edit -- yes, I always measure the parts and turn to that, not the bushing size. I chose the title because in this one case, I would have been better off turning to the bushing size.
Unfortunately, this set isn't made to be adjustable, as I can't seem to reliably disengage the pinion. I can rotate the face to change the zero point, but I still need to get the pinion engaged at a point where the needles are lined up when it's closed.
actually, if the bezel will not rotate. they are pretty easy to set once you get the hang of it. you need a very thin strip of about .001 brass or steel shim stock to slide between the rack and gear. you do that with the dial at 0 then close the jaws and slide out the shim stock. i would have thought however that the bezel would rotate. give it a shot. that is the way we had to do it in the old days every time. the calipers came with a shim tool in the box.
Unfortunately, this set isn't made to be adjustable, as I can't seem to reliably disengage the pinion. I can rotate the face to change the zero point, but I still need to get the pinion engaged at a point where the needles are lined up when it's closed.
actually, if the bezel will not rotate. they are pretty easy to set once you get the hang of it. you need a very thin strip of about .001 brass or steel shim stock to slide between the rack and gear. you do that with the dial at 0 then close the jaws and slide out the shim stock. i would have thought however that the bezel would rotate. give it a shot. that is the way we had to do it in the old days every time. the calipers came with a shim tool in the box.
Yes, the bezel rotates. But there are two needles that are geared differently. They need to line up with each other when the caliper is closed; then I can turn the bezel to make that the zero for both inches and mm.
Using shim stock is a way to "disengage the pinion". On this model, when it's closed there's no access to get a shim out, at least not that I can find. And of course no shim came with it. (It's possible I misunderstand the shim technique, but I've been unable to find any photos or diagrams of the procedure.)
6" Digital Caliper with Metric and SAE Fractional Readings
Is a good unit to purchase?
I saw this the other day when I was at their store.