For what it's worth, this my personal experience with glues and glue joints. Othere will have different experiences and reach different conclusions.
A bad piece of wood will crack or explode when it wants to, and it doesn't matter which glue was used for the tube.
For most wood, the glue joint only has to be strong enough to hold everything together until after it has been turned, sanded, and finished. After that the metal ends are pressed into the tube, capturing the wood, and there is no longer any need for a glue joint. Any glue in the joint only acts as a filler to keep the wood centered on the tube. Think about that.
The hardest stress on the wood and the glue joint is the pounding it takes from the intermittent cut while the wood is being turned from square to round. I tend to take big cuts suring this rounding to get it done faster.
There will be a lot less stress on the wood and glue joint if the square-to-round is done between centers BEFORE the the blank is drilled and the tube is glued in. Doing this solves 2 problems. It removes the stress from the glue joint, and it takes a lot less pressure on the bushings to turn a round blank than it does a square blank. There will be fewer blowups, and those that do happen will be before the blank is drilled, and we will have a better chance to glue them back together. Less pressure on the bushings means less opportunity to bend the mandrel and cause all sorts of alignment problems later.
Except for one specific type of wood, I use CA glue for gluing all tubes, but this wasn't always this way. My first pens were glued with epoxy, and were then followed by various brands of Polyurethane glues, but I still used epoxy when I didn't want to wait overnight and I used the 5-minute variety when I wanted a faster cure.. I never used CA glue because I has always thought it was too brittle - until one day when I needed some pens in a hurry while I was making a video.
When one of the tubes got stuck about 1/2 way into the hole, I thought it would be very easy to get it out. After all, it was a brittle and weak glue joint. Everyone knew that. One good hammer blow would break it free. Several hammer blows later the tube and the wood were totally destroyed - - and the brass was still stuck firmly to the wood. So much for CA being a weak glue joint. I have used nothing but a medium CA glue, Hot Stuff "Super-T", ever since. That was 4 years ago.
The one exception is wood that I suspect or know will crack. I drill the hole slightly oversized with the next larger drill in whatever fractional, letter, number, or decimal size is available. As an example, I use the larger 9/32" drill instead of the 7mm or "J" size for the 7mm tubes. Then I use the Polyurethane glue because it will expand and fill in the gap, and the foam is strong enough to hold it together yet flexible enough to allow for expansion of the wood. I went from 100% failure due to cracking to 80% success with pens turned from Ebony when I did this. I have always suspected some combination of internal stresses and moisture in the wood that resulted in movement and shrinkage as the cause of the cracking. Using a somewhat flexible glue joint allowed for this movement and reduced the cracking.
The only problem I have had with the oversized hole and Polyurethane glue has been with pens where the wood was not captured between two metal parts that had been pressed into the tubes. The solution was easy - never make a closed-end pen from a species where I would be useing the Polyurethane glue for the tubes.
I have used all of the Polyurethane glues over the years and have settled on Titebond brand as my preference. It keeps longer that the others after the bottle has been opened, it foams less and doesn't push the tubes out of the holes as much, cures faster and without having to use water on the wood, the bond is just as strong as the others, and it is less expensive than Gorrila brand.