CA strengths

[tipusnr]

Are there any differences in the types of CA other than thickness and set times? I am going to start gluing up custom blanks and want the strongest bond I can get. I have three types of CA and 2 type of poly as well as quality wood glue to choose from.

Any opinions?

 

[Rudy Vey]

I can tell you that there are big differences between CA glues.
Normally I used all the time the "Hot Stuff" from Woodcraft. The medium thickness is quite slow setting. The other day I got my glue from Daniel's CA bulk buy, the "E-Z Bond" material and I can say the medium thickness stuff is much more reactive than the hot stuff:

I apply it normally with a paper towel section, four times folded and never ever glued it to my fingers. Using the EZ bond the first time the reaction was immense: it got very hot, and it even smoked and it glued so fast to my finger I could not get the paper towel off fast enough. Burnt my finger a little bit, too. No need for accelerator, so far. Now I use a cut-off finger from cheap rubber gloves to avoid the sticking to my skin, but it still gets very hot compared to the "Hot Stuff".

I had hard times getting the Hot Stuff to dry when using BLO/CA, now with the new stuff it dries instantly, no need for accelerant.

Tomorrow I will try it without the paper towel, either applying it with a plastic bag or with my "rubber" finger (heard somewhere that paper towel might accelerate the reaction of CA glue).

 

[Daniel]

Since you brung it up, I just got through adding some info to the CA Bulk Buy Web page. it now lists what type of CA each one is.
Now I am no CA expert, just the guy that is buying it for everyone. but the basic thin, med, and thick glues in the CA Bulk Buy are.
Ethyl Cyanoacrylate
the odorless CA is Alkoxy-Alkyl Cyanoacrylate
Now don't ask me the difference except the oder.
I have also gotten the imppression that various other CA glues are formulated differently.
as for the Bulk Buy Glue I have also had it set so fast that it smoked.
I use the accelerator when I have a thick application it also seems to help the glue stay smoother when it sets. Can't swear that has anything to do with the accelerator though.
I've heard that some chemical in plastic acts as an accelerator as well. can't say my experiences support this by much.
As for tim's specific concern withthis question. I have been gluing up small blocks the last couple of days. Poly has worked real well and fairly fast. but as I pointed out in anouther thread use water in the joint and watch for gaps. I first started using Epoxy for gluing pieces together and always had good results but it is slow. today I had to glue several pieces of wood together and only had my CA handy. it was a littel tricky to get it to set but once it did I had no problems. I think I was just getting the glue to thick in hopes of making a stronger joint adn actually getting the opposit. one interesting thing in noticed. I had turned a scrap piece of wood to glue small blocks to yeasterday I used CA. after getting the small block turned today I went to part it off the waste block right at the glue joint. about mid way through the cut I suddenly got hit with strong CA fumes. at first I though it came fromthe open bottle of CA I had in front of me. but when I got the piece parted off I noticed the CA was still wet after over 24 hours. originally I had glued this piece with poly but when that joint failed I used the CA. I have not yet decided why i think the CA would not set.

 

[Marc Phillips]

Heya Tip

"I am going to start gluing up custom blanks and want the strongest bond I can get"

CA would be my last choice for gluing up blanks.... You will have a lot stronger bond with a yellow glue or a polyurethane glue... CA has a lot uses, but gluing up boards or blanks isn't one if it's best uses...

 

[RussFairfield]

We use CA glue because it is fast.

I have written an article from my experience with glues and adhesives. CA is at the top of the list. Read this article at:

http://www.woodcentral.com/russ/russ6.shtml