CA sticking the bushings on the pen

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Muggsy1776

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Joined
Jan 8, 2010
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138
Location
Shelby Township, Mi
Ok, I'm one of the newbies on the site, and still new to pen turning. I've done a couple so far and have some decent results so far (just making slimline's). I have had a few problems which seem to repeatedly pop up on me. First is getting the tubes stuck on the mandrel or on the clean-out bit (the one used to clean the CA out of the tubes and trim the ends of the blocks). I've peeled off more than one- even after a day of letting the CA dry. The other problem is after I apply my coates of CA on the pens the bushings are sticking to the wood and is causing chip out on the wood. Any suggestions as to how to avoid this? I saw a video series where plasitc bushings are suggested but I can't find where to get them.
 
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JohhnyCNC has the delrin bushings, untill then try rubbing a little wax on the bushings. You can also use the edge of an exacto knife and carefully cut the seam between the bushing and the blank.

One of the best ways to remove CA from the inside of the blanks is to "plug" the tubes. I got some dental wax from AZ sil. that I use to plug the tubes. Some use sliced potato or even an apple.

I used to use CA for glueing the tubes, but too many fails, now I use epoxy.........
 
What I do is after I finish a pen I take a SHARP utility knife and just very slowly go around between the blank and the bushings. Some other just take it off the mandrel and bushings and put it between centers and do the finishing that way, for that you need a dead center as well as the live. there is a forum all about turning between centers even if you don't do it I would recommend reading it there is some useful information in it. As far as getting CA inside the tubes I bought some cheap Playdough and I use that to plug the end of the tube that I insert into the blank. I would also recommend getting a small carving knife or a small enough blade that you can fit in the end of the tubes and clean them out before you use the MILL to mill the ends of the wood square to the tubes that way you don't get all that CA stuck to the mill shaft which you end up having to clean off. I have had it on there and it heated up to the point that it broke the bond between the tube and blank, and I would pull the tube right out. I am a newbie also only been turning pens for a couple months now so I had the same problems you are having. GL and feel free to contact me if ya need to with any more questions and dont be afraid to ask the people on here are awesome at helping each other out. Len
 
I sand and finish between centers without any bushings. I no longer have to worry about bushing dust or trying to get the CA off the bushings. You can also get the universal delrin set from Johnnycnc if you want to finish on the mandrel.
 
I'm waiting on my dead center so as to turn and finish between centers. But what I've been doing thus far on the slims is using a short length of tubes and finishing one section at a time on the mandrel. Slide a piece of tube on each end and you can tighten up the nut against it enouogh to hold it in place. and if you do have any run over onto the tube I just pop it off by hand and lightly sand the ends to square them back up. I have tried using the pen mill but sometimes will catch too deep and crack a chunk off so I don't do that any more. This has worked for me and I've turned a lot of slims using this method.
 
I love the universal delrin set from Johnnycnc; but they don't work for slimlines, and even with 2 sets, they don't really work for 2 piece pens unless you have a very LONG mandrel.

(I do my turning between centers, but I LOVE finishing on the mandrel because for the most part, I can do both pieces of the pen at the same time - saves me about 10 minutes per pen; which if I was doing ONE pen at a time, isn't much. But I usually "batch process" my pens.)
 
Delrin works but i find it still can stick somewhat. I found the quality of my finished work was somewhat diminished by always having to cut/score and separate the finished blank from the bushing and then having to sand by hand the small overhang of built-up CA on the ends. I read on this site a post from someone ( forget who so sorry for not giving credit) recommending taking the blank off of the bushings prior to sanding and then sanding and finishing while turning between centers without bushings ( be careful not to apply too much pressure). I found this method to work great and have not had a single issue since.
 
Where as Johnny carries delrin bushings for turning between centers. I carry bushings for many popular kits for use with a mandrel. Check out the link in my signature line. Also you can find them @ exoticblanks.com if you need other items.

CA does not stick to delrin as well as it does wood or metal so it it is easier to keep it from breaking off the finish.
 
I love the universal delrin set from Johnnycnc; but they don't work for slimlines, and even with 2 sets, they don't really work for 2 piece pens unless you have a very LONG mandrel.

(I do my turning between centers, but I LOVE finishing on the mandrel because for the most part, I can do both pieces of the pen at the same time - saves me about 10 minutes per pen; which if I was doing ONE pen at a time, isn't much. But I usually "batch process" my pens.)


I have the cure for two piece pens coming soon.:wink:
 
If you have extra tubes, cut off 1/8 inch length rings from one of them. Slide these onto your bushings first, then when you slide on the pen body, your rings will act as a spacer between the body and the bushing. If you get alot of buildup on those, it's easy to remove with a parting tool.
 
Ca is sticky stuff!

You can apply wax as has been said, to any surface you want to keep CA free. personaly I use Johnson's paste wax as a release agent. To remove epixy from inside tubes, I use rifle cleaning brushrs from the local gun store. They come in many calibers, and easily mount in a drill moter chuck. I'm sure you could apply wax to the inside of pen tubes with a swab also. good luck on future pens, and keep them coming. :smile:
WS, (Bob)
 
Wow..thanks everyone for the replies! I'll take each of your suggestions into consideration and see what I like best. I have really had fun making the pens that I have done so far, and I can't wait to practice more. I'm going to have a lot of friends and family with pens!
 
If the bushing gets stuck on the mandrel then I side it and the blank to the end of the mandrel and gently apply pressure and the bushing releases from the blank. If you put the bushings in a little jar of acetone all of the CA will come off. I wax the bushings and then the CA doesn't stick, but you have to keep doing it because it will wear off eventually.
 
For final sanding and finishing I turn bushes out of a cutting board. Simply drill holes to suit your mandrel, cut out squares around the holes, then turn on the mandrel. Generally the cones are best, as they fit nearly all the kits :smile:

I do however still score the CA finish at the end of my blanks after coating them with the point of a small very sharp Skew, prior to final finishing, to ensure the CA breaks where you want it to. The CA then just peels of the bushes, although sometimes needs some convincing, as it tends to shrink on.

Cheers
 

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Take a pair of pliers...Firmly grip the bushing itself...
Use a cloth to hold the pen part and gently move side-to-side...
Mine pop right off, no damage...
Ed
 
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