CA over Lacquer

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Dustman

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Mar 14, 2023
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22
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San Diego, CA
Hi everyone. I have been turning pens for just over a year now. I have been finishing with the lacquer friction finishes supplied by PSI. Now that I am beginning to sell my pens I've decided I need a more durable finish and have turned to CA with great results. My question - I like the 'pop' I get from a true wood finish AND the durability from CA. Will CA applied over lacquer or an oil based stain stick and provide the same long term durability, gloss and transparency?
 
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jttheclockman

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Feb 22, 2005
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19,160
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NJ, USA.
Depends. What is in the mix? CA will stick to lacquer, polys and such but will not stick to a waxy surface. So if that mix has a wax in it also then I would avoid. Just my opinion. I am sure others will chime in also.
 

Dustman

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Joined
Mar 14, 2023
Messages
22
Location
San Diego, CA
Thank you, Clockman. That's kinda what I was thinking. I just didn't want to waste a lot of time or materials testing it out. Then there's the issue of longevity over time. I'm new here and figured this was a good and fast way to get some answers. Thanks again.
 

its_virgil

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Jan 1, 2004
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8,131
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Wichita Falls, TX, USA.
I have been using CA as a finish for 20 yrs and have never seen a need to apply CA over another finish. Here is what I do: I apply WATCO Danish Oil in medium walnut to every pen. The WATCO oil really makes the wood "pop" as you call it. It does not take much. Then I apply the CA finish and it works great. I might mention that I use the boiled linseed oil - CA finish. Works great for me.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
 

jttheclockman

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Feb 22, 2005
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NJ, USA.
656Queen_Ann_Clock-med.jpg



I am a huge Watco Danish oil user as a finish for my scrollsaw work. Just wanted to show an example of the color and the shine I can get with it. Clock on the left is red oak and rosewood base. The clock on the right is all canary wood. The clock trim rings are padauck wood. All take the oil well and when buffed abit they can take a nice warm glow. The thing to remember with Danish oil it is boiled linseed oil and dryers and mineral sprits with also some polyurethane in it. It pops any wood with a nice warm touch. I use to go through gallons of that stuff. Talk about price increases, man.
 

its_virgil

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Jan 1, 2004
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Wichita Falls, TX, USA.
I use to go through gallons of that stuff. Talk about price increases, man.
I just had to purchase another can. I don't use gallons, just the quarts so s quart for pens last quite a while. So, once I picked myself off the floor, I proceeded to check out. But, most every thing is getting pricey. Thank you ______________(fill in the blank)
Nice scroll work BTW.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
 

jttheclockman

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Joined
Feb 22, 2005
Messages
19,160
Location
NJ, USA.
I just had to purchase another can. I don't use gallons, just the quarts so s quart for pens last quite a while. So, once I picked myself off the floor, I proceeded to check out. But, most every thing is getting pricey. Thank you ______________(fill in the blank)
Nice scroll work BTW.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
Thanks Don. Back in the 80's Watco stopped making Danish oil because of stricter environmental laws. There was a huge clamoring for it and they brought it back reformulated. Back then Home Depot was selling all they had for ridiculous low prices and I went around to all Homers as I could to buy them up. Unfortunately so did a lot of other people. But was able to get a good deal of them and down to my last 2 gallons. It was a little different formula and to me a better one back then. I still use it today along with some of the new formula ones. It is a top brand finish on the market. I am a fan. A qt today is about what a gallon was back then.
 

Paul-H

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Joined
Mar 5, 2023
Messages
34
Location
Kent
Being new to pen turning and finishing, what's the thinking behind using BLO with CA ? What does the addition of BLO do to the CA ?

Thanks

Paul
 
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