CA Glue
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Monty
Group Buy Coordinator
You can ask 100 people this question and get 110 different answers. The best answer is to read the in the Library and do a search on YouTube then tray them and see what works best for you.
I know this sounds like a copout answer, but everyone has their own way that works best for them
I know this sounds like a copout answer, but everyone has their own way that works best for them
PenMan1
Member
It requires one yellow sock and saying a chant.
Dan Masshardt
Member
In addition to the library, look through the finishing section if the forum.
You will find everything that you need.
There is no right way. I have a way I like as do others.
One thing to consider if you are trying someone else's method - changing one variable can change the outcome. Talking about ca brands, use of accelerator and type of paper towels, foam etc used to apply. As well as lathe speed. Also polishing method after application.
Many, many variables.
I've found that even temperature / humidity can make a difference.
Be prepared to experiment.
You will find everything that you need.
There is no right way. I have a way I like as do others.
One thing to consider if you are trying someone else's method - changing one variable can change the outcome. Talking about ca brands, use of accelerator and type of paper towels, foam etc used to apply. As well as lathe speed. Also polishing method after application.
Many, many variables.
I've found that even temperature / humidity can make a difference.
Be prepared to experiment.
LagniappeRob
Member
Yellow? You sure? I was told Orange. I thought the chicken foot needed to be yellow. That explains a lot!!
edstreet
Member
Many may jump in and tell you specific methods of doing this but that is the wrong response to your question.
The correct answer would be to say that CA glue for a finish needs to be applied to a clean trouble free blank that will not be subjected to movements, be it radial or elongation. Since CA is non-flexible it will crack, chip, break and damage the blank when subjected to distortion and certain chemicals.
To make it work good you apply the volume needed (thicker than the final dimensions btw) for the job at hand then when it's dry (be it air drr, use of accelerator or other) it is sanded smooth then polished. Since CA is an acrylic then any useful methods of working with acrylic is open to you to use.
General rule of thumb is you do not want to mix and match methods. Instead you want to stick to one school. Micro mesh, liquid polishes and buffer being the 3 major school. The most common trait that I have noticed here on IAP is excessive sanding and using to many grit sizes which results in removal of the CA.
As with photography your #1 goal is to manage the low spots. Areas that need to be build up the most. If you are not mindful of those areas it will come back to bite you very quickly and you will bet stuck in an infinite loop doomed to repeat the same mistakes.
StuartCovey
Member
Heres what I do:
First I will sand it with 220, 400, and than 800. I will then apply my CA (usually 4-5 coats using accelerator). Usually the CA will have ridges from applying the CA, so I will use a skew and lightly take off just enough to smooth everything up. This also gives me a chance to be sure it is the right diameter and I didn't put too much CA on. I will then start sanding with a 220 and than a 400. Now I will use my buffing pads from PSI which go from 300 - 12,000 grit (I do not usually start out with the 300 though because it is unnecessary and usually removes to much CA). A little buffing with a soft clean towel and its ready to go.
I do acrylics the same way but without the CA.
Hope this helps, Stuart
First I will sand it with 220, 400, and than 800. I will then apply my CA (usually 4-5 coats using accelerator). Usually the CA will have ridges from applying the CA, so I will use a skew and lightly take off just enough to smooth everything up. This also gives me a chance to be sure it is the right diameter and I didn't put too much CA on. I will then start sanding with a 220 and than a 400. Now I will use my buffing pads from PSI which go from 300 - 12,000 grit (I do not usually start out with the 300 though because it is unnecessary and usually removes to much CA). A little buffing with a soft clean towel and its ready to go.
I do acrylics the same way but without the CA.
Hope this helps, Stuart
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Monty
Group Buy Coordinator
No.
StuartCovey
Member
Not at all.
billspenfactory
Member
I reclaimed some off my fingers last night. No wait maybe I reclaimed my fingers from the CA. Wear a baggie or glove if you going to start with the CA finish.
sbwertz
Member
This is an easy and pretty foolproof way to get started with CA finishing
WoodTurning BLO and CA Pen Finish - YouTube
WoodTurning BLO and CA Pen Finish - YouTube
Another problem I have is the white coating after applying the accelerator,what the best way of removing this and what am I doing wrong?
This is my way of applying CA,sand with 150-600,clean blank with MYLANDS CELLULOSE SANDING SEALER,then apply 4 coats of CA with accelerator between coats,use micro-mesh 1500 - 12000,then polish,.Is this correct?
This is my way of applying CA,sand with 150-600,clean blank with MYLANDS CELLULOSE SANDING SEALER,then apply 4 coats of CA with accelerator between coats,use micro-mesh 1500 - 12000,then polish,.Is this correct?
Dan Masshardt
Member
Why the sanding sealer? Four coats of what thickness? Probably not enough. Using 150 you could easily sand through it. Correct is a fuzzy concept with ca finishing!!!
Are you keeping the accelerator 8-10" away and using a fine mist?
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kovalcik
Member
If it works it is correct, if not....
My guess is your coats of CA are too thick and the rapid curing of the thick coat of CA with accelerator is the issue. You can either use thinner coats of CA, allow more time before using accelerator (or don't use accellerator at all), or both. IMO the best answer is thin coats of CA, no accelerator, and more time between coats, but that is just me.
The sanding sealer should not be an issue. I have used it without any problems. Just make sure it is completely dry before starting the CA.
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*I sand to 320 or 400 and then swap out the steel bushings (if I'm using them) for finishing bushings.
*I then sand the wood, starting with 100 grit to at least 600. (It may be overkill but it works for me. Note that I do not use each grit for long. A couple of seconds and I can usually move on.) By the time I'm done I've actually sanded the blank a touch further than the final diameter. I don't measure, it almost always works out.
*Use denatured alcohol on a paper towel to clean up any residual sawdust.
From here I have adapted a method from a video by Tim Nicholas of Wood-N-Whimsies. The video deals with working one of their inlay blanks but this works for me.
*Start your lathe at low or medium speed. I use 875 rpm, which is a slow as it goes.
*Take and fold a paper towel lengthwise until it's about an inch wide. Put a bit of thin CA on it and then apply to your pen. Press to work it into the wood. Keep the towel moving so that it doesn't stick. Let it sit --leave the lathe on-- for a minute or so. Do not use accelerator at this point. It might foam up. Repeat twice more.
*Spray a small amount of accelerator on the blank. Wait a moment and wipe off any excess with a different paper towel.
*Fold your paper towel down about an inch, wet it with a small amount of this CA and apply it. Do three coats this way and then use accelerator again. Fold it again and repeat. That's nine coats of thin CA. Look for problems after each three. If necessary, sand gently between coats to even things up or remove the odd bit of towel or dust.
*Get another towel folded and apply three times three coats of medium CA. Use the accelerator between each three. You needn't use much for each coat. Too much will leave waves. You can always add more.
*After the final accelerator, sand. I use the PSA pads the came with an "I can't believe this finesh" (or somesuch) kit. I start with the roughest and work my way through each grit, wiping with a damp paper towel in between.
*After the final grit, I put a couple of coats of One Step (or the generic version) on and it's done.
FYI, it's taken longer to type this than it takes to do.
Cheers,
Jerry
*I then sand the wood, starting with 100 grit to at least 600. (It may be overkill but it works for me. Note that I do not use each grit for long. A couple of seconds and I can usually move on.) By the time I'm done I've actually sanded the blank a touch further than the final diameter. I don't measure, it almost always works out.
*Use denatured alcohol on a paper towel to clean up any residual sawdust.
From here I have adapted a method from a video by Tim Nicholas of Wood-N-Whimsies. The video deals with working one of their inlay blanks but this works for me.
*Start your lathe at low or medium speed. I use 875 rpm, which is a slow as it goes.
*Take and fold a paper towel lengthwise until it's about an inch wide. Put a bit of thin CA on it and then apply to your pen. Press to work it into the wood. Keep the towel moving so that it doesn't stick. Let it sit --leave the lathe on-- for a minute or so. Do not use accelerator at this point. It might foam up. Repeat twice more.
*Spray a small amount of accelerator on the blank. Wait a moment and wipe off any excess with a different paper towel.
*Fold your paper towel down about an inch, wet it with a small amount of this CA and apply it. Do three coats this way and then use accelerator again. Fold it again and repeat. That's nine coats of thin CA. Look for problems after each three. If necessary, sand gently between coats to even things up or remove the odd bit of towel or dust.
*Get another towel folded and apply three times three coats of medium CA. Use the accelerator between each three. You needn't use much for each coat. Too much will leave waves. You can always add more.
*After the final accelerator, sand. I use the PSA pads the came with an "I can't believe this finesh" (or somesuch) kit. I start with the roughest and work my way through each grit, wiping with a damp paper towel in between.
*After the final grit, I put a couple of coats of One Step (or the generic version) on and it's done.
FYI, it's taken longer to type this than it takes to do.
Cheers,
Jerry