CA Finish Question

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TonyL

TonyL

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Joined
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First shot at this and was wondering if I use DNA after turning the pen to size. What do you like to use to remove wood pen dust and then CA dust. Thank you. All opinions are welcome!:smile::smile::smile: Thank you!
 
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If you have compressed air, blow it off, maybe hit it with a toothbrush, then wipe with DNA, dry and you are good to go. I don't have CA dust before the grain is full and sealed, so I just wipe it off, or blow it off.
 
DNA is not pure, it contains a small amount of water (100% is hygroscopic and will absorb water out of the air) which can cause problems with the CA. I use a little CA accelerator to remove dust and oil from oily wood.
 
Thank you all. Let's just say my first CA attempt was more humbling then my black acrylic attempt. I think I will stick with acrylics for a while. My beautiful wife wanted a pen with doggie prints (we are very involved with training dogs for people with special needs as volunteers). So I found some doggie print stickers art Hobby Lobby and gave it a shot with some cocobolla (sp?). She loved the pen, no where close to my acrylic productions. I tried, and she is happy...not a bad way to end :-).

Thanks again!
 
Ha ha, after me and the lathe, the compressor is the 3rd most used tool in my garage. The air nozzle hangs on a hook by the lathe ready to use at all times.
 
I use acetone, and let it air off for at least 5 minutes before I do my first coat of CA... When you are doing your CA finish, if you sand between coats, there is no need to get rid of the CA sanding dust (assuming it is ONLY CA sanding dust and you are not sanding down on the blank at all or have other dust or particles on the blank...) as the next coat of wet CA will dissolve the CA dust on the blank. At least I have never had a problem with leaving the CA dust on the blank. If you really want to get it off, I would suggest just a dry paper towel, as Acetone will dissolve and/or discolor CA, fully cured or not. DNA as Monty said, can have water in it or pull it out of the air and cause problems. Using water to wipe it off has it's obvious downside of causing spotting or having to wait till it has completely dried... I don't use Accelerator, so I don't have that as an option, but of the things people have mentioned using, that is the one that to me seems like it has the least likelyhood of causing problems...
 
Stop the lathe and wipe the blank along the grain with a fine dish scrub cloth like the Scotch-Brite pads. Lots of cheap no-name versions around too. Great for cleaning the dust and grit out of the grain.
 
Tony - I'm coming in late on this so forgive me, pls. Wiping depends on what wood you are turning. Some woods need something to remove the oils present in their cell sttructure which can interfere with the finish curing or adhering. Cocobolo (I think that's the way it's spelled) is one of them. One of my absolute favorite woods.

Most solvents will work well. DNA is one of them, and another favorite is acetone. I prefer acetone as it does NOT absorb water and it evaporates FAST. Caution is required (fumes, volatility, flammability) as it is with most solvents, DNA included.

Good luck!
 
Tony, as others have mentioned cocobolo is a beautiful wood but has an oil that has to be wiped off with acetone before using CA on it. If you are using stickers you should apply at least 2 coats of CA before you apply the stickers to ensure that the blank is sealed. Test the stickers to see if they will smudge when you apply more CA on top of them. If the stickers smudge, use a rattle can and spray a couple of coats of poly varathane on the stickers, let that dry and then finish with you additional CA coats.
 
Thank you

Thank you. I use DNA prior to the stickers and in between sanding the wood. I then applied the stickers to the wood. I them applied 12 coats of medium CA over the stickers. I then sanded and finished per BG's system
 
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