I use the plastic cones to hold the pen on the lathe. Sometimes (seems like more often recently) the glue adheres to the cone(s). When I remove the blank the glue cracks and damages the area of the pen I've finished. I've also tried using two 60 degree metal centers, one fixed and one live and I've had the same problem. Any easy fix for this? Is there something I can apply to the cones to stop the glue from adhering? Thanks in advance.
CA finish problem
- Thread starter vegabomb
- Start date
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First of all .... Welcome to IAP !!
The problem you describe is one that I face every time I do a CA finish. . I know how frustrating it is.
The only advice I have to offer is to limit how much CA you apply at a time. . I think the problem comes from CA flowing down over the end of the blank and onto the cone.
You don't say what method you are using to apply the CA.
What works for me, may not work for you. . I limit the amount of CA that I apply to a few drops on a blue shop towel.
And I make many applications. . I usually sand after about 3 applications, just to take the high spots off the building up coating of CA.
In total, I would make a dozen or more applications.
It is tedious but I find it is the best way to keep the CA from running over the end of the blank and onto the cone.
You have to keep an eye on it. . If you see that CA has gone over the end and onto the cone, you should stop and take the blank off so as to break the layer of CA that has gone onto the cone.
Sorry I can't be more help.
The problem you describe is one that I face every time I do a CA finish. . I know how frustrating it is.
The only advice I have to offer is to limit how much CA you apply at a time. . I think the problem comes from CA flowing down over the end of the blank and onto the cone.
You don't say what method you are using to apply the CA.
What works for me, may not work for you. . I limit the amount of CA that I apply to a few drops on a blue shop towel.
And I make many applications. . I usually sand after about 3 applications, just to take the high spots off the building up coating of CA.
In total, I would make a dozen or more applications.
It is tedious but I find it is the best way to keep the CA from running over the end of the blank and onto the cone.
You have to keep an eye on it. . If you see that CA has gone over the end and onto the cone, you should stop and take the blank off so as to break the layer of CA that has gone onto the cone.
Sorry I can't be more help.
Thanks magpens. I use blue shop towel as well with a small amount. It's definitely what you describe, the glue is running over the edge. My fear is that if I don't run the glue all the way to the edge I'll get a bald spot on the edge after sanding. Very frustrating lol.
Lucky2
Member
Try using a coating car wax on the cones, and wipe the excess off. the glue shouldn't stick to the waxed cones. You must be using a lot of glue, I've never experienced this issue once. But if the cones are waxed, your problem should be solved. Use a good quality wax, don't use junk on anything you use on the lathe.
Len
Len
Hmm, I'll try wax. I think I'll first experiment with less glue. I do a single pass with thin then 6 or 7 passes with a medium. It doesn't seem like I'm using a large amount when I apply the medium but maybe I just have been. I'll try less and see what happens.
penicillin
Member
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2019
- Messages
- 1,036
I use plastic cones. I have a problem where it leaves CA rings at the end of the pen blanks, but they never crack near the blanks themselves. I sand off the rings by holding the blank vertical on a piece of sandpaper. Be careful not to tilt the blank when you sand. Do not sand much.
I also use wax on the cones to make it easier to pick the dried CA off the cones with a fingernail. I use whatever wax is handy at the time. Usually it is the Renaissance Wax, but sometimes it is the Johnsons paste wax. Either one works well. (I also have various wax blocks, but never tried them on the cones.)
I also use wax on the cones to make it easier to pick the dried CA off the cones with a fingernail. I use whatever wax is handy at the time. Usually it is the Renaissance Wax, but sometimes it is the Johnsons paste wax. Either one works well. (I also have various wax blocks, but never tried them on the cones.)
randyrls
Member
LJ; These are delrin correct? Don't put any acrylic cones in the acetone as it will dissolve the plastic. Dunk them in Acetone for a few hours. I keep a quart size paint can with an inch or so of Acetone in the bottom. I dunk metal bushings, delrin, and CA nozzles in it over night. Clean. You can also soften CA glue and acrylic if you ruin a blank.
WriteON
Member
Ditto on too much CA. Your control will get better. Take your time. Thin applications. Look for some utube videos. Maybe you can find a good demo of CA finishing. Technique is everything.
leehljp
Member Liaison
Get a parting tool or use the corner of a scraper or the tip of a skew and while the blank is turning, score or turn away the built up CA off of the cones or bushings. This is not something that you just do as a matter of fact, it is something that you sneak up on and do a very minuscule bit at a time. This allows the CA to separate at the junction of the cones or maybe 1/64 inch outside of the blank.
Also, what Mal said - practice limiting the amount of CA on the ends. This is where experience comes in. For me, I took a 2x4 pine cut off and made about a dozen blanks or so and just practiced making pen blanks. Where I had problems, I worked on that particular problem until I could control that one issue. There is usually more than one way to arrive at a solution.
Also, what Mal said - practice limiting the amount of CA on the ends. This is where experience comes in. For me, I took a 2x4 pine cut off and made about a dozen blanks or so and just practiced making pen blanks. Where I had problems, I worked on that particular problem until I could control that one issue. There is usually more than one way to arrive at a solution.
Dalecamino
Local Chapter Leader
All good suggestions particularly Hanks. I use an Exactly knife to score the CA right next to the end of the blank all the way around, making sure I've scored deep enough. Then take it off the lathe. Holding the bushing in one hand and the blank in the other, rock the bushing up and down until you hear or feel a snap. If you scored the CA deep enough you may not hear or feel anything. Twist to see if it seperated. You can then stand the blank on end on a piece of 320 sandpaper to clean up the ends. Soak your Delrin bushings in a small tub of acetone, then dry them off including the holes in the ends. This is the way I learned to do this, and I'm just passing it on.
jttheclockman
Member
All good answers and the common theme is amount of CA used. Little is better than alot. Soaking the bushings and or anything that has CA on it in acetone is a good idea. What I do to prevent what you describe is first limit the amount of CA used and also take the blue shop towel piece and run a dry piece between the bushing and tube to soak up most of excess CA. Then after a few coats I remove from bushings and clean them (usually can just wipe off with a wet towel and any excess on the edns I sand off standing the tube on edge and pushing lightly on a piece of sandpaper adhered to a flat surface. Works for me. Good luck. I have reservations about using any type wax near any type finishing project while applying and thus I do not wax bushings.
WriteON
Member
Tony is someone everyone should know. An absolute forum good guy.
Woodchipper
Member
I made bushings from a sheet of HDPE I got at the recycling center. CA peels right off.