CA finish on bottle stoppers

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MrDave

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I have read in one of the posts that bottle stoppers are to big to use a ca finish on? Is this true? If so what finish do most of you use on them.

I am new to this forum and want to thank all of you for the information I have gained on this site(saved a bunch of mistakes.

I am getting into pen & bottle stopper making and have only made one pen, just now setting up my shop. I have read just about everthing in the marketing, penmaking, and finsih areas. This has been a BIG HELP:)!!

Is anyone from the Saint Charles, MO area (near St. Louis, MO)
 
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I haven't made any bottle stoppers.... 'cause I aint got any bottles to stop [:D]

.... but I have used CA as a finish on a couple of bowls... and they're a lot bigger than a bottle stopper...

Hope that helps...
 
Welcome Dave, I have done a lot of pens using CA finish, but have not tried it on bottle stoppers yet. I don't see why it would not work on bottle stoppers, just be sure to be quick about spreading it on and use thick CA instead of medium.
 
Bottle stoppers can be really tricky with CA finishes, especially if they have any intricate shapes or beads. I've heard some people who prefer to use a sprayed laquer finish on their bottle stoppers due to this. I have done a CA finish on some of mine, though they were fairly simple shapes. Most of the time, figuring that the stoppers will not be handled as much as a pen would, I will just sand to 400 or 600, use BLO, let sit for a day, then buff with tripoli and white diamond and then coat with a way and buff with a clean wheel or cloth.
 
There is one reason why I use Deft High Gloss Spray Laquer.

1) Fangar uses it

Also with some of the designs I do on bottle stoppers it would be difficult to sand and polish it without going through the CA layer. Secondly there maybe some issues with the temperature changes if going from the fridge to the room. I know on some woodturning show the person didn't use CA glue to set the dowel into the wood on a cork style stopper.
 
I use Deft high gloss spray lacquer. I've tried CA but with the small beads and coves it is difficult. You can pick up Deft at the local big box stores.
 
Dave, I live just across the river in the Metro east area.There are other members in the area that excape me at the moment.[:I][|)]

I use the Deft Laquer method and sand to 400g and some times 600g then buff out on the beal and finally a couple of coats of Renaissance Wax on the recommendation of Yoyo Spin only wish mine would look half as good as his but with that said that method of finish suites me and my customers seem happy with it.

Welcome to the forum, lots of knowledge and some great folks who are always willing to help out with a problem.[:)]
 
Dave, sorry for the brain malfunction Duh..... Darick Chitwood and his dad Jim who live in St. Peters are members and live down the road from you and as I said there are others who may speak up.

As to the CA finish there were some good responses but to clarify my comments, naturally the sanding process is first followed with the Deft and then the Beal buffing w/tripoli,white diamond and the Renaissance wax. If I'm worried about durability I will some times use a wipe on poly gel before the wax buf. Hopefully this thread answered your question.
 
I don't make many bottlestoppers, but those I have made have no finish other than polished wood and a coat of Renaissance Wax. If there is nothing on the wood, there is nothing to come off.
 
All the wood stoppers I have made have been coated with Enduro. As said, applying the finish by hand is tricky around beads and coves and IMO, a spray finish would be better. I have tried spraying the Enduro, but my gun was adjusted for paint and the enduro came out so fast I wound up sanding almost all of it off to get rid of the drips.[B)] Will try again with a lot more care once it gets warmer outside.
 
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