CA/BLO - why BLO?

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mbower

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Based on Ed's video, I did two pens today with CA/BLO. They came out nice but from what I've read on other threads, it might be different tomorrow. We'll see.

But at a function tonight (computer function, not a turner's function - not near as interesting <g>), we discussed BLO and the danger in using it.

So my question is this. Why BLO? Would other oils work as well? For my bowls, I tend to use vegetable oil so I tried CA/Vegetable oil (CA/VO?) today on a third pen. I was going to use Tung Oil but we couldn't find it.

Can other (more non-volatile) oils be used in place of BLO?

TIA
 
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What kind of danger using Boiled Linseed Oil? I have been applying CA/BLO finishes on pens for over 5 years and have sold at least 2000 pens in this time period. I have never had a problem with BLO, nor have I had any complaints from customers. I store it in my garage without any special precautions. I am not aware of any volatile problems associated with BLO.
 
I think the only safety issue with blo is to put your rags in a fire bucket, or a metal bucket with a lid. They can self combust I think. I just throw mine on the fire when I'm done.
 
BLO is a mild accelerator for CA. Take a rubber glove and with the lathe turning slow, apply thick CA and rub it, rub it and rub it smooth. Do it a second time and then put a drop of BLO on the tip of the glove and rub it on - and watch it cure a good bit faster. This is as an experiment only to notice the difference in CA with and without BLO. Having learned this on my own, There are times I use BLO and times I don't. I use it according to the situation that I deem necessary for the job.

Are others just as good? I haven't really tried them. If you do and find a difference, it would be good to know.
 
I lay out my paper towek on the concrete floor when I am done, when it dries hard, I toss it. If I have more than one towel, I lay them out on the driveway. I sort of like the way BLO smells.
 
Yeah, what Mark said! It also soaks up any residual sanding dust so you don't end up with light colored pockets in grain holes and such. Lately I've been having really good luck (when I take time to actually turn a pen) with using CA/BLO for the initial seal, letting it cure for a bit, and then going to straight CA. Makes for a nice deep finish. I like the way BLO soaks into the wood when you apply friction heat while the lathe is turning.
 
I was told to try just ca with no blo but I cant get a smooth finish without the blo. It also looks better with blo, more shine.
 
had to try various combinations of how to apply ca and olive oil. thought i had cracked it only to discover a particular way wasn't repeatable. at the moment sticking with oil first after a thin ca seal, getting repeatable and relatively consistent results. do believe amounts, viscosities, pressure, lathe speed, applicator are all variables that contribute to consistency. i allow rests between coats. finish with auto scratch polish.

my understanding is many oils can act as a lubricant and accelerator, guess there will be differences in the viscosity and acceleration between them though.
 
Most vegetable oils are NOT drying oils, they will never cure. Walnut oil is a drying oil, but often times the food grade walnut oil will have additives to keep it from drying. Artists sometimes use walnut as a substitute for linseed oil, but it doesn't dry to quite as hard a film, and is slower drying. Not knowing the long term effects of their use,I would not recommend using non drying vegetable oils, as they have no advantages over BLO, which is a known quantity.

Dan
 
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