CA Applicators?

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gtriever

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I always have a problem with the caps on CA bottles welding themselves in place. Who's got a good solution for this? Also, I use the applicators in the photo below for Weld-On 4 adhesive, which bonds Plexiglass and other thermoplastics; do you think it would work for CA as well, or would the CA just harden and close up the steel tip after first use?


Weld-on Applicator.jpg
 
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Wipe the nozzle with a paper towel and lots of acetone before putting on the cap. This is from the Titebond folks. I have one bottle that I have to use two wrenches to remove the cap because I didn't clean it. Fortunately, it is almost empty.
 
This has been a perennial problem and inconvenience when using CA dispensed from bottles

There are two issues: #1 the tip clogs up; #2 the screw on base of the tip eventually gets glued to the bottle, and sometimes permanently.

I have not found the Zap tips referenced in Post #3 to be a solution unless you diligently swap the tip with a clean one after every usage and cycle the tips through an Acetone bath. This is a pain to remember to do because you usually have other things to think about when you are dealing with fast-curing CA.

I have not found the inserts for Weld On, or any other such inserts, to be satisfactory solution.

I have not found that wiping with Acetone fully solves the problem because the CA clogging happens not only at the tip but, eventually, further down inside the conical dispenser.

Who likes keeping Acetone around ? . I don't, but it seems to be necessary, at least for unclogging CA bottle dispensing bottles. . But you have to be diligent about keeping the dispenser clean, or you won't be able to use your CA at the precise time when you most need it.

There is a bottle available from Fastcap which might be a solution but I have not tried it yet. . It is not specifically designed for CA application but it might work.

https://www.amazon.com/FastCap-Babe-Bot-Ounce-Glue-Bottle/dp/B0006IUW9U

The dispensing tip is designed for wood glues and the manufacturer says there is a suck-back action which clears the nozzle after you apply the glue and set the bottle down.

Has anybody tried this bottle with CA ? . If so, how did you modify the dispensing tip for CA ?

EDIT: I just read the "Further Details" and learned that this bottle comes with two tips, one of which is more appropriate for CA and is shaped somewhat like the tips on conventional CA bottles that we are used to dealing with. The suck-back action is as yet unproven.
 
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I have several extra tips that I bought a long time ago. When one gets plugged I swap it out and let the other tip soak in Acetone. I also will tap the bottle on the bench and give it a slight squeeze before I put the cap on. Be careful that you don't get it in your eye or on your glasses.
 
Mal, I use that bottle for wood glue. The tip is way to big for CA.

I'd echo that--even with the blade tip--unless you're using CA with the viscosity of TiteBond. I do love that bottle for flat work with wood glue though.

Mercury CA (both regular and Flex) has a short metal (stainless??) rod in the cap that keeps the tip from clogging. The nozzle has a few "cups" that catch the drips running down--I can't really describe, but it's a clever design. Still, the cap sticks to the cone after a time. Next time I have to open a bottle, i'm going to try Johnson's paste wax on the cone before I snip the end. Also, Tennessee Pen Supply sells extra caps for Mercury bottles as well.

earl
 
Mal, I use that bottle for wood glue. The tip is way to big for CA.

Mal, I use that bottle for wood glue. The tip is way to big for CA.

I'd echo that--even with the blade tip--unless you're using CA with the viscosity of TiteBond. I do love that bottle for flat work with wood glue though.

Mercury CA (both regular and Flex) has a short metal (stainless??) rod in the cap that keeps the tip from clogging. The nozzle has a few "cups" that catch the drips running down--I can't really describe, but it's a clever design. Still, the cap sticks to the cone after a time. Next time I have to open a bottle, i'm going to try Johnson's paste wax on the cone before I snip the end. Also, Tennessee Pen Supply sells extra caps for Mercury bottles as well.

earl
Agreed. I have that bottle as well, and the smaller tip is indeed way too big for CA.
 
When the glue dries inside the tip of my CA bottles, I use a needle with a wood handle (what fly tiers call a dubbing needle) to ream out the tip. This gets it working again. May have to do this every time I use it, but at least I can use it.
 
I keep some guitar strings handy for piercing (B & high E, both non-wound). Amazingly rigid in short work, also great for gas orifices, windshield washer nozzles, etc. Actually on my gas grill, I have used wound guitar strings.
earl
 
Mal, I use that bottle for wood glue. The tip is way to big for CA.

Mal, I use that bottle for wood glue. The tip is way to big for CA.

I'd echo that--even with the blade tip--unless you're using CA with the viscosity of TiteBond. I do love that bottle for flat work with wood glue though.

Mercury CA (both regular and Flex) has a short metal (stainless??) rod in the cap that keeps the tip from clogging. The nozzle has a few "cups" that catch the drips running down--I can't really describe, but it's a clever design. Still, the cap sticks to the cone after a time. Next time I have to open a bottle, i'm going to try Johnson's paste wax on the cone before I snip the end. Also, Tennessee Pen Supply sells extra caps for Mercury bottles as well.

earl
Agreed. I have that bottle as well, and the smaller tip is indeed way too big for CA.
I need to correct my previous post. While working in the shop today, I came across the smallest tip for my glue bottle. When I made my post above, I thought I'd been using the smallest tip, but apparently I was wrong. The tip I found would, indeed, be appropriate for use with CA glue.
 
Thanks for clarification, Roger, regarding the bottle I asked about with the finest tip.

I think I will give it a try. Those bottles are for sale at a local store.
 
I always have a problem with the caps on CA bottles welding themselves in place. Who's got a good solution for this? Also, I use the applicators in the photo below for Weld-On 4 adhesive, which bonds Plexiglass and other thermoplastics; do you think it would work for CA as well, or would the CA just harden and close up the steel tip after first use?


View attachment 175741

I use 16 oz plastic squirt bottles from Hobby Lobby. they are very inexpensive and have worked excellently for me. I do not clean the tip nor do I cap it. When I am finished applying CA, I place the bottle pointing up and give a little squeeze to push out any CA in the cap. Usually it just pops a little bubble. I have never had a clogged cap and the CA does not harden when left uncapped like this.

My $0.02
Tomas
 
Mal, I use that bottle for wood glue. The tip is way to big for CA.



I'd echo that--even with the blade tip--unless you're using CA with the viscosity of TiteBond. I do love that bottle for flat work with wood glue though.



Mercury CA (both regular and Flex) has a short metal (stainless??) rod in the cap that keeps the tip from clogging. The nozzle has a few "cups" that catch the drips running down--I can't really describe, but it's a clever design. Still, the cap sticks to the cone after a time. Next time I have to open a bottle, i'm going to try Johnson's paste wax on the cone before I snip the end. Also, Tennessee Pen Supply sells extra caps for Mercury bottles as well.



earl



Mercury CA has a ironclad warrantee on glue and tip. Any problems & they'll replace bottle or tips. This is even if the glue hardens in the bottle prematurely. Check with Atlanta Hobby.


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