CA adhesion - UPDATE

[Gabericks]

Hey Pros, I found out my issues with white spots under my CA is happening from possibly dinner ca overlay and when I send or chip it off (it is hardened with activator). I think it is also happening when I press the pen due to the pressure from my new PSA press.
I'm mostly having this issue on the .30 caliber rifle pens.
Any suggestions?

also, what is your suggestion to get a great square cut on the 2 barrels? Sometimes I break the ca when I try to get a more square end. Thanks

 

[leehljp]

Pressing: Make sure there is NO CA residue inside the tube. Be careful on this issue. Check, check again. Use a small rat tail (round) file to clean to the point you can see the scratches from the file on the tube all the way around.

Next, Check alignment, Just a degree or two off will force expansion of the tube which will translate into expansion of the blank and loss of adhesion on the blank.

What do you mean by "chip it off"? Break it from the bushing?

Square ends and breaking the CA: SQUARE the ends BEFORE applying CA.

I may be reading your description wrong; if so let me know. IF you mean that you have CA on the ends and the ends are not square - does this mean you are using TBC? With TBc, finishing is done without bushings and CA does build up on the ends. IF you are using bushings, you should not be having CA on the end of the blank - to break. IF you are speaking of the breaking of the CA off of the bushings and blank, THIS ACT ALONE will cause what you describe as loss of adhesion. That is also referred to as white under the CA, Or Lifting of CA off of the blank in a spot; it is all the same, but different ways to describe the same thing. English is difficult sometimes!

 

[Dalecamino]

As I understand, your CA is covering your bushings as well as the blank. Then when you break the blank from the bushings, the CA chips off from the blank. If I'm correct, you can avoid this by scoring the CA at the seam where the blank and bushings are joined, with an exacto knife or Arts knife. After scoring, hold the blank in your hand, and grab the bushing with some pliers, and rock the blank back and forth a couple times. You should hear/feel a snap. The CA has broken apart at the score line. Lay out a piece of 320 grit sandpaper on a flat surface. Stand the blank up on end, and move the blank either in a circle, or figure 8. This will clean up and true the blank ends.

Pressing the parts into the blank. Go slow and easy. When the part reaches the blank, STOP.

 

[Jans husband]

Gabe
A couple of suggestions.

When I square off the ends of the Blanks before turning, I do a slight chamfer with a countersink bit on the inside of the end of the tube to make entry of the parts easier when pressing, and I find that helps to squarely align the parts.

Also, I always use plastic bushings when applying CA- and then run the ends over sandpaper in a light circular motion just before pressing to ensure that there is no CA on the ends. I am only a recent user of CA as a finish.

Not an expert, far from it, but as many people here say "it works for me"

Mike

 

[wouldentu2?]

Good suggestions above.

Use less CA so it's not so thick or, remove after 5 coats and with blank vertical lightly rub blank end on fine sandpaper.

No matter what do the vertical blank sanding after removing blank from lathe.

If you find the edge of blank too sharp buff the end of the blank.

You can't press a pen together with any CA hanging over the edge of the blank.