Bullseye Apollo pen kit assistance

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hooked

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Mar 25, 2019
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Location
Sudbury, MA
Hi all,

I ordered some Apollo kits last year from Bullseye and just getting to try one. Going very simple for my first one and just using scrap padauk. I must say that I love this kit so far. Drilling went fine and everything seems to be working except I am noticing a very small gap between the cap and body when fitting likely due to user error. I know Kate had mentioned in her video about adding an accent piece to the cap in case this happens. I have also seen a thread where KenB259 executes it perfectly. In Kate's video she mentions a future video to show how she does it but I can't find the video. I am hoping someone could give me some advice on how to add a small ring to the end of my cap pieces that covers the gap.

Is the best bet just to add a predrilled accent piece on to the bottom of my blank and turn it down with the rest of the cap? Should I upsize the hole of the accent piece to make sure that the body will fit under the cap lip that I am adding? Should I part my cap piece down to the plastic insert (about 1/16 inch) and then add the accent piece? Thanks for any advice from people who have turned this kit and needed to add to the cap.

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For the one I did, that you referenced, I planned it with that accent piece and it was just part of the original blank, all drilled at once. I think your best bet is to try and part it down to the plastic insert and then add the accent ring. It will be imperative though that you part is perfectly perpendicular. Did you drill a small air release hole in the end of the plastic insert?
 
Hi all,

I ordered some Apollo kits last year from Bullseye and just getting to try one. Going very simple for my first one and just using scrap padauk. I must say that I love this kit so far. Drilling went fine and everything seems to be working except I am noticing a very small gap between the cap and body when fitting likely due to user error. I know Kate had mentioned in her video about adding an accent piece to the cap in case this happens. I have also seen a thread where KenB259 executes it perfectly. In Kate's video she mentions a future video to show how she does it but I can't find the video. I am hoping someone could give me some advice on how to add a small ring to the end of my cap pieces that covers the gap.

Is the best bet just to add a predrilled accent piece on to the bottom of my blank and turn it down with the rest of the cap? Should I upsize the hole of the accent piece to make sure that the body will fit under the cap lip that I am adding? Should I part my cap piece down to the plastic insert (about 1/16 inch) and then add the accent piece? Thanks for any advice from people who have turned this kit and needed to add to the cap.

View attachment 328274
Another option might be to use a chamfering tool on the lip of the cap to open it up and make room for the rim of the section. This would only be practical IF the rim at the base of the section is the reason why the wood of the cap and the barrel do not mate.

Good luck!
 
Thanks for the advice! I did drill the air release hole. I am guessing that my 1.05" hole is a little short. When I test fit and saw that the plastic insert was inside the edge of the blank, I assumed it would be a good fit.

I have parted back to the plastic. I put in a piece of vulcanized fiberboard and then an ebony extension. Hoping that the fiber board will expand with epoxy and possibly hide any imperfections in my parting. Letting it dry now and will turn it down and report.

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When I test fit the plastic insert, I have learned it needs to go in just a little further than you think it does. As you know, that little "weep" hole is crucial, otherwise it works just like a hydraulic piston.
 
I think that was my issue. I figured it was okay but needed a bit extra. I feel it now hangs over about 1/8" and fits perfectly. I did chamfer the opening a bit, as Penchant recommended as well. The finished pen is below. Next one, I want to get the ends flatter, but I am thrilled with this kit and plan on ordering more. Thanks for the recovery assistance!

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I did a few of these myself, and fortunately did some dry fitting beforehand to make sure the recess was where it needed to be. Having a slight recess and having the end dead square are key to make the fit match. The one thing I liked and disliked about the kit is that the threads are single thread, not triple but having single threads allowed me to have a constant, perfect match to the wood grains and highlights no matter how many times you open or close the cap (liked!). I'll get used to having to turn the cap a few more spins....lol. These kits are well made and fun to build - a great mid-way point to a full kitless pen. I really like your 'recovery' pen - I think the ebony adds a lot of class to it!
 
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