simplepens
Member
Has anyone tried using a Dremel and its buffing/polishing accessories on your pens? I don't have the Beall system and can't really justify buying it at this time. I have the Dremel and was thinking of trying it.
Buffing with a dremel
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Do a search or High tech buffer.
You can turn your own "buffer holder" good practise.
You can turn your own "buffer holder" good practise.
simplepens
Member
Did the search and found the paint roller buffer. Have a few of those laying around. Don't have all the buffing compounds, though. Will have to try the roller.
Make sure the rollers are lambs wool and clean.
Here's a slick trick to turn the M T2 taper giveme a call.
Neat way with NO measureing.
Here's a slick trick to turn the M T2 taper giveme a call.
Neat way with NO measureing.
scalawagtoo
Member
Dremel buffing wheel might be good for putting a new shine on already assembled pens.
JimGo
Member
The polishing compounds can be found at Harbor Freight for a few bucks (saw some Tripoli there this weekend, and have gotten a white diamond-like stick there too)
btboone
Member
I use a Foredom rotary tool (like a Dremel) with a half inch cotton buff. I mostly use it on metal stuff before hitting it with my bigger polishing wheel. The small buffs do well on fine detail and getting machining marks out. They do sometimes leave fine swirl marks that the larger buffer then can get out. The same applies to pens in wood or plastic.
I do have another batch of the plastic mandrels made for the paint roll buffers if anyone is interested.
I do have another batch of the plastic mandrels made for the paint roll buffers if anyone is interested.
Fangar
Member
You can make a buffing system for a mini lathe for less than 15 bucks. I use mine a ton.
Fangar
Fangar
Kevin Glover
Member
James, is that 1/4-20 all thread with nuts and washers? and what kind of wheels are those? Thanks, Kevin
Fangar
Member
Kevin,
1/4-20 would be much too small. That is a threaded 5/8" rod. Available at Lowe's or HD for under 3 bucks (For a 12" piece). I tapped the end to a 60 degree bevel at the live center end, but you could easily just make a small hole with a drill. The end that fits into the jacobs chuck was turned down, removing the threads (Making it 1/2"), but this is not nessecary. The Jacobs will bite on the threads just fine. Then you get any two 6" wheels. These are simply soft cotton ply. About 4 bucks each from lowe's. They look black as I was polishing some aluminum.
Add (4) 5/8" nuts and 4 washers and you ar there.
You could use a 1/2" Rod, but must buffing wheels around are 3/8" arbor centers.
Good luck,
James
1/4-20 would be much too small. That is a threaded 5/8" rod. Available at Lowe's or HD for under 3 bucks (For a 12" piece). I tapped the end to a 60 degree bevel at the live center end, but you could easily just make a small hole with a drill. The end that fits into the jacobs chuck was turned down, removing the threads (Making it 1/2"), but this is not nessecary. The Jacobs will bite on the threads just fine. Then you get any two 6" wheels. These are simply soft cotton ply. About 4 bucks each from lowe's. They look black as I was polishing some aluminum.
Add (4) 5/8" nuts and 4 washers and you ar there.
You could use a 1/2" Rod, but must buffing wheels around are 3/8" arbor centers.
Good luck,
James
Kevin Glover
Member
Thanks for the info, James. I'll be heading for HD or Lowes soon. Kevin
Fred in NC
Member
The drill chuck can be done away with, IF ...
You are willing to turn a Morse taper out of hardwood or some other material. It is not that difficult, and the fit can be a little less than perfect. It helps to have a piece of sandpaper glued to a piece of plywood to level the taper. Then with the taper in the spindle, drill a hole for the threaded rod. Put some epoxy in the hole, and insert the rod. Bring the tailstock to the little hole in the other end, and let dry in the lathe, so it stays straight.
You are willing to turn a Morse taper out of hardwood or some other material. It is not that difficult, and the fit can be a little less than perfect. It helps to have a piece of sandpaper glued to a piece of plywood to level the taper. Then with the taper in the spindle, drill a hole for the threaded rod. Put some epoxy in the hole, and insert the rod. Bring the tailstock to the little hole in the other end, and let dry in the lathe, so it stays straight.
fritzmccorkle
Member
you using that thing to buff your shoes???? what's making them black? you don't have to have the beall system. i bought a mandrel with a morse taper and use one wheel with white diamond on my lathe. works great.
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