Buffing: When and Why?

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gmreeves

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Birmingham, AL
This may be a silly question but what is the purpose of buffing and at what point in the finishnig process do you buff? I have watched the Beal videos and he buffs the raw wood and it puts an amazing shine on the raw wood but is that just to show you the effects? Do you apply your CA finish and then Buff? Do you buff before the CA and after? I have contemplated buying the three wheel on the lathe system before but I am happy with the CA finish I am getting and don't know what the advantages of a power buffing system are. Please explain.
 
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I use the buffing wheel after I apply CA. In fact, some were surprised to find out that I only sand through 2400 MM, followed by "one step" plastic polish and then white diamond buffing.

Most people go all the way through 12000 MM and I've done that too but I find the finish meets my expectations with the process above.

Also, if forgot to mention that when I am finishing a wood pen, I sand through 2400 MM and then apply CA. I don't know if it really matters but I'm concerned that sanding through 12000 MM before applying CA may leave the surface so smooth that the CA may have difficulty adhering.

John
 
Thanks. I have been sanding my wood pens to either 600 or 800 grit and then applying the CA and have been happy with that so far. Then it is micromeshed to the 12000 and then some Novus plastic polish. It looks good to me and those that I show it to.
 
IMHO buffing raw wood is okay if it is something that is not going to be used or handled. A pen need a protective finish. Buffing a finished pen seems like a waste to me. You are buffing it as you finish it.
 
gmreeves said:
Thanks. I have been sanding my wood pens to either 600 or 800 grit and then applying the CA and have been happy with that so far. Then it is micromeshed to the 12000 and then some Novus plastic polish. It looks good to me and those that I show it to.
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As an option, (instead of the red part) you could sand the CA to 1000 grit(ish) and buff with tripoli in the linear direction (counter to all the processes you have done in the radial direction on the lathe) therefore, changing the "scratch direction" and causing finer scratches, then buff with white diamond, removing the fine scratches with even finer scratches. (There are also plastic buffs that get even finer--if you are more anal):biggrin::biggrin:
 
If you are going to buff a CA finish, Make sure to get enough coats of CA on, because it will buff through very quickly.

If you think your finish is good enough...don't bother with the expense and time of buffing.

If you would like to see the difference in your finish and a buffed finish without the expense, put a good coat on a blank, and send it to me. I'll buff it and send it back to you. Then you can be the judge of whether you want to do it or not.
 
DozerMite said:
If you are going to buff a CA finish, Make sure to get enough coats of CA on, because it will buff through very quickly.

If you think your finish is good enough...don't bother with the expense and time of buffing.

If you would like to see the difference in your finish and a buffed finish without the expense, put a good coat on a blank, and send it to me. I'll buff it and send it back to you. Then you can be the judge of whether you want to do it or not.
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The issue is NOT whether you can get as good a finish without buffing. Yes, you can--at least as much as the human eye can see, unaided.

The question is: Is it faster to use the 7-9 sheets of micromesh and the additional plastic polish, or is it faster to run the sanded pen blanks across a spinning buffer?

Done properly, either one can give you a GREAT finish.
 
Ed, I disagree. He said in his post that he is happy with HIS finish and wanted to know the advantages of buffing. Yes, it's possible to get a good finish without buffing, just a LOT more involved time wise.

I just offered to show him the advantages by sending me one of his blanks to be buffed for a comparison for him to see first hand.


ed4copies said:
The issue is NOT whether you can get as good a finish without buffing. Yes, you can--at least as much as the human eye can see, unaided.

The question is: Is it faster to use the 7-9 sheets of micromesh and the additional plastic polish, or is it faster to run the sanded pen blanks across a spinning buffer?

Done properly, either one can give you a GREAT finish.
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If I am doing wood, I buff with the WD wheel bare. No polish and linear direction. Then apply CA and sand through the MM. TSW and buff. Just my way.
 
I'm from the old school, So Ed I'm anal! + Having finished out several Baldwin pianos many times and getting the mirror like finish. I put a mininum of 10 coats of Laqucer on a pen up to 20 . The shine is beauty. I buff out to 12,000 MM But remember then you using 12,000MM your buffing the wood. not sanding it. Then I use a micro-mesh polish that takes the surface to 25,000 and finish the blank with a compound of 100,000 grit. then Renx wax. My wife will take the pen and use it as a mirror so she can see how her lip stick is.



Why? because my clients demand that high gloss finish and they do pay for it too.

This is my way !
 
I've been super happy with my finish using CA/BLO with no sanding or buffing after I apply it. I do a Hut polish of it as a final but that is easy. Buat keep in mind I do it for fun and have never sold a pen. The pros may say different.
 
PaulDoug said:
I've been super happy with my finish using CA/BLO with no sanding or buffing after I apply it. I do a Hut polish of it as a final but that is easy. Buat keep in mind I do it for fun and have never sold a pen. The pros may say different.
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If you can get access to a buffer, just give it a try and see if you like it.

I've stopped beating on the pen with MM, PlastX, etc. I wet sand using automotive paper to 1000, then do my 3 stage buff- Tripoli, WD, carnauba wax. The wax may be redundant, but I like it. If nothing else, I also buff the hardware with the wax. Keeps from getting fingerprints on it. :wink:
 
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