Buffing Wheels Turned Black

[dankc908]

Hi all --

I was finishing a couple of Gatsby pen blanks yesterday and decided, finally, to use my 3-wheel buffing system. The first blank (figured honduran rosewood) went very smoothly. However, I ran into some problems on the second blank (tulipwood). The first 2 wheels (linen and linen/flannel) began turning somewhat black. I think the problem was because I was using a bolt with a couple of washers and a nut to hold the blank steady.

My question,now, is: How can I remove the black from these fabric 'wheels' so I can use them again? The tulipwood blank picked up the black color and I couldn't get rid of it. I will now use that beautiful blank as a 'designer spacer' on my mandrel.

Any help/ideas would be greatly appreciated as I do like the look of buffing my turnings but, alas, if the black transfers to my wood then it is useless. I do plan to abandon the bolt setup and try to made something out of wood of some kind.

Thanks in advance!

Dan

 

[Mapster]

I have found personally that if I hold a towel up to the wheel a lot of the black transfers onto the towel. I don't have those exact wheels, but in my case it gets enough black out that you can use it without blackening your pens. Some wheels can also be washed, so you could try that as your last option. Light detergent and air dry should do the trick.

 

[hunter-27]

I've never had much luck removing the metal contamination, new wheels and not doing it again are usually my best treatment. You might try "buffing" a board wrapped in 60 grit paper to remove the end fibers and get down to clean fibers.

 

[DozerMite]

Rake the wheel. Don't use metal around your wheels if you want to keep them from getting the black on them.
If you rake them, the color shouldn't transfer. I buff alum., brass, stainless and plastics all on the same wheels.
You should rake the wheels before each use and periodically anyway.

 

[dankc908]

Rake the wheel. Don't use metal around your wheels if you want to keep them from getting the black on them.
If you rake them, the color shouldn't transfer. I buff alum., brass, stainless and plastics all on the same wheels.
You should rake the wheels before each use and periodically anyway.

How, and with what, do I 'rake' my wheels. Will this get rid of the black that is there or do I need to do more to get rid of the black??

Thanks,
Dan

 

[Don Wade]

throw them in the washing machince

 

[KenV]

Dan -- a wheel rake looks like saw blades into a block that is held against the buffs.

Holding a hacksaw with coarse teeth flat horizontal into the wheel will have a similar (but less effective effect. The rake pulls any caked compound out and tears the buffs to fray new ends.

If you are lucky and do not have a lot of compound imbedded into the wheels (usual beginner error is over loading the buffs), your should be able to tear the wheels down to the point where the metal contamination ends up in the dust collector and on the floor. This process can produce a lot of dust/lint.

If you are going to buff --- plan on getting a rake to refresh your wheels.

Try washing your contaminated blanks down with mineral spirits and a soft brush (like a tooth brush). You may get lucky and get enouth of the metal out to reuse the blank. You are not out much to find out.

You only need to "kiss the wheel" to get the polishing operations ---

 

[Steve Busey]

How, and with what, do I 'rake' my wheels.

Start here.

 

[GoodTurns]

This process can produce a lot of dust/lint.

literally laughing out loud...first time I did this it looked like a cotton field around my buffing lathe...probably still embedded years later!

 

[Mack C.]

How, and with what, do I 'rake' my wheels.

I used this on my wheels once. It takes a long time to clean the lint from the teeth, but it worked!http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=20141&cat=1,42524

Will this get rid of the black that is there or do I need to do more to get rid of the black??

I like the washing idea Don Wade mentioned, but unless they are terribly contaminated that file brush will clean them sufficiently to be able to use them immediately.

 

[dankc908]

This process can produce a lot of dust/lint.

literally laughing out loud...first time I did this it looked like a cotton field around my buffing lathe...probably still embedded years later!

Many thanks to all who responded to this thread. I have ordered the 'rake' and will try to save the wheels that I have. As regards "a lot of dust/lint" I have decided to do this operation while my unsuspecting 10-year old daughter is standing beside me. I might as well get some fun out of solving this problem! arty:

Dan

 

[jttheclockman]

Dan

You got very good advice on how to try to clean but good luck with that.

The thing I would like to address is the safety aspect of the cotton wheel dust. Most people do not realize the dust that comes off those wheels especially when new and that it is not a good idea to inhale or be careful of getting in the eyes. When you now load the wheels with whatever compound you are using you are now making things even worse. I try to always use a buffing wheel out doors and with safety glasses and a dust mask. Have the 10 year old there to me would not be a good idea. One other thing when using a rake you better have a good grip on this thing if you turn the polisher on.

Good luck with the black thing. I would just buy new ones and use those for future metal polishings.

 

[Fred]

While you are raking the wheels, just hold your vacuum hose nearby and IF you get the right spot you should catch a bunch of the lint.

Oh yea, use one set of wheels for wood, and an entirely different set for metal.