Buffing system

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Muggsy1776

Muggsy1776

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Joined
Jan 8, 2010
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138
Location
Shelby Township, Mi
I'm looking to add a buffing system and wondered if anyone could give me an opinion as to the differences between the Beale system and the new Barry Gross endorsed 2 wheel system from PSI. The Beale has an extra buffing wheel and uses more than one compound. The PSI has only 2 wheels and they advertise using only one compound. The price difference is only in the range of $10.

Any thoughts?
 
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I made my own using 3 wheels. The stiff wheel gets the brown compound to remove scratches. Medium wheel gets white diamond. Soft wheel gets carnauba wax. Total cost was under $20 including 1/4-20 allthread, nuts and washers for the mounting.
 
I have the Oneway system, sim to the Beale except it uses one wheel at a time. Great for doing bowls and a great system.

Lin.
 
I have the Beall system that you change wheels on the lathe. I like it although I have used it very little. Guess I keep forgetting I have it. I tried to buff brass once, what a mess it made of the wheel! Ended up buying a new wheel!
 
I have a three wheel system that I have modified to make it a two wheel. I sometimes buff with Tripoli on the stiffer wheel, always buff with white diamond on the softer wheel and sometimes (always on wood) apply a coat of a plastic polish on the lathe after the white diamond wheel. I do not use carnauba.
 
I agree with the "homemade" and two wheel--for me tripoli and white diamond.

Although I am experimenting with some finer "plastic" stuff-jury is still out (for a third wheel)
 
I'll tell ya, the carnauba wheel really polishes that shine. WD gets you 95% of the way. The final wheel hits the last 5%. Plus, you can buff the plated hardware with that one without risk of removing the plating.
 
I usually don't like buffing with a CA finish (YMMV), but when I'm doing another finish, I'll sand to 400-600, then seal and buff with the tripoli and white diamond before applying the final finish.

-Barry
 
I use dedicated buff motors and for efficiency, two wheels are best. You can get away with just one wheel with white rouge, but there is more finish work involved before using it.
There is no need for carnuba, it might give the illusion of a more shiney surface, but what it does is fill the fine scratches with the wax. Then when the wax wears off, the scratches will show again. Some people won't notice it.
 
Well I sparked quite the discussion here. Lots of good input- thanks to everyone. I'm still battling the small scratches- I'm using the PSI pads from their "I can't believe this finish" set, and in the end I always end up with a couple of scratches that I can never seem to get rid of. I want to switch away from the beginners method and move up to a little more advanced with the buffing. Less sanding, more buffing like I see others using.
 
I use my buffing wheels on drill arbors in my drill press . I have several , one for Tripoli , one for WD and one clean buff . I also have a couple of wheels set up for metals . Brass and Aluminum will mess up the wheels fast so you shouldn't use your trip and wd wheels on metals .
I also have a couple of wheel rakes (or combs) that are used for cleaning up the wheels , but I found a pet deshedding brush (the brushes with the fine Stainless steel bristles) works better then the ones made for the wheels . It does a better job of cleaning off the caked up deposits on all the wheels without wearing out the wheels as fast .
 
Well i have mt-2 for each buff wheel and place each one individual on the lathe.
one for each
triplodi
WD
Micro-mesh
ren-wax
and a clear for I also have a black shoe polish wheel too!
 
I made my own system. A 1725 1/2hp motor with extended Arbor, mounted on the corner of a shop table. I made the wheels out of felt (tripoli), Denim/Polyester (White Diamond) and 100% Cotton Denim (clean/wax wheel). All the wheels are 2.5 to 3" thick, by 8" diameter. The center of each wheel is 1/2" cpvc cut to wheel thickness, CA'd in the center. They slip on and off the motor arbor quickly. Takes me about 5 secs to change wheels.
I have a .pdf tutorial on it, if anyone's interested.
 
I have both the Beall buffing system and the one from Barry Gross.

They are aimed at different types of materials.

The Beall uses Tripoli, White Diamond and Carnuba (one compound for each wheel). I use this system for wood turnings (although I've stopped using carnuba and now buff Renaissance wax as a final step)

The set from Barry Gross is designed for acrylics, and it uses a blue rouge (finer than white diamond) for polishing and a clean (no compound) cotton wheel for final buff.

I use Barry's buffs on acrylics and Tru-Stone. I micromesh to 12000 then use the blue rouge and clean wheel... great results.
 
Thanks to everyone who replied- I took each of your posts into consideration. In the end I opted for the Barry Gross 2 wheel buffing system from PSI. I figured if it wasn't that great I wouldn't be out a lot of money, and it would be a starting point for a learning curve that would include the postings. Today I got the wheels in the mail and tried it on an acrylic pen and it performed exactly like they say it does. Smooth as glass! I tried it on some CA finishes and got the same results! All the fine scratches are gone, and even the appearance seems to shine more. I think I can say that I would recommend this to someone else.
 
I've had the Beale system for years,I cusom made a portable stand using a left over motor, and designed it to stop the frayed buffing wheel bits to not fly all over. I mostly use Lee Valley polymerized tung oil as the finish coat and have been more than happy with the results.

I've only used it with hardwood and Dymondwood, mostly for finishing small boxes, not lathe work
 
Make your own. Cut about 20 discs, 6" or 8" diameter, out of a pair of old denim jeans, the older the better, and cut a hole in the center. Buy a 5/16 bolt about 4" long, a nut and two fender washers. You now have a buffing wheel. Hold it in a Jacobs chuck in the lathe. You only need one of them if you clean the wheel by holding the sharp corner of a piece of wood against it before going to the next compound or wax. Make 2 more wheels if you get tired of cleaning it.
 
RussFairfield said:
Make your own. Cut about 20 discs, 6" or 8" diameter, out of a pair of old denim jeans, the older the better, and cut a hole in the center. Buy a 5/16 bolt about 4" long, a nut and two fender washers. You now have a buffing wheel. Hold it in a Jacobs chuck in the lathe. You only need one of them if you clean the wheel by holding the sharp corner of a piece of wood against it before going to the next compound or wax. Make 2 more wheels if you get tired of cleaning it.
Click to expand...

That's a great tip !

Thanks Russ
 
Allenk said:
I made my own system. A 1725 1/2hp motor with extended Arbor, mounted on the corner of a shop table. I made the wheels out of felt (tripoli), Denim/Polyester (White Diamond) and 100% Cotton Denim (clean/wax wheel). All the wheels are 2.5 to 3" thick, by 8" diameter. The center of each wheel is 1/2" cpvc cut to wheel thickness, CA'd in the center. They slip on and off the motor arbor quickly. Takes me about 5 secs to change wheels.
I have a .pdf tutorial on it, if anyone's interested.
Click to expand...


This a really neat tutorial that Allen has, well worth the time to explore the possibilies Allen has put together. Thank you Allen.
 
You're welcome, John. I learned the last couple of days just how to make bowl buffs, too. I goofed up though... the first one I made was from the softest cotton flannel, and I used it for the Tripoli... now I need to make another one, with some 65/35 Denim-Polyester mix... it'll be better for the tripoli. I'm going to do another tutorial on the bowl buffs...
 
I use the PSI 3 wheel buffing system, though I rarely have to use rouge and wax, usually the white diamond is all I need. I would just buy that one, it is a decent deal and if you ever need the other two, you have them.
 
You guys know that WD is carried in a wax matrix, right? So you're still laying down wax, just a poor quality wax. That's why I do a carnauba buff after. To replace the crap wax with good wax.

Wipe a WD buffed object with mineral spirits. You'll see it get duller (use something that won't be affected by the mineral spirits!!!)
 
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