Bring out the color in figured maple

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Second the BLO. It has a dark appearance when you put it on the rag but goes on almost clear with just the slightest tint of color.

Be warned that rags can spontaneously combust so they should be spread out to dry before disposal or disposed of in a fireproof container (I use my wood burning stove).
 
Yep, BLO is the best thing I know of to pop the figure in wood, but it also darkens it some and makes it more yellow. You just have to decide if the change is acceptable to achieve the result.
 
I have seen guitars & pool cues that the Maple figure just exploded. But, when I asked the makers how they did it they told me they used dyes but wouldn't even give me a clue at all as to what ones they used. Big secret.

Jeff in northern Wisconsin
 
Usually black dye sanded back and thinned yellow work well. The guy that made my accoustic used shellac on the face and WOP on the sides and neck...all fiddleback maple so there is a lot to pop!
 
StephenM said:
Be warned that rags can spontaneously combust so they should be spread out to dry before disposal or disposed of in a fireproof container (I use my wood burning stove).
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This is ironic, logical, and contradictory...all at the same time! I love it!
 
Lowe's, Home Depot, just about any hardware store will carry it. Just be sure you get boiled and not raw. Boiled is not actually cooked but contains dryers/hardeners so the oil will harden. Raw will harden but it can take months.

Here's a giant picture since I can't see where to resize it.

Klean-Strip-Boiled-Linseed-Oil__33614.1328558529.1280.1280.JPG
 
What I have seen done is to add a little bit of TransTint dye to your finish. It really make the finish pop. My woodworker's guild has a video on it in the archives. If you are interested it is on the free side of the site at thewoodwhisperer.com. It is episode 32.
 
I used to be a professional gunsmith and the way that curly maple is finished is fairly simple but it does take time. Once the sanding is done raise the grain with a little water and knock the nibs back down with a fine sandpaper. You then use a golden brown stain, the exact shade is your choice based on preference. Apply it liberaly but evenly and let it dry thoroughly. Then using 220 grit or so sandpaper and a firm sanding block sand the stock to reveal the stripes. The stripes in maple are made of areas of wood that are harder and softer (early & late wood). Because of this the softer areas absorb the stain deeper. When you sand it back the tops of the hard stripes that did not absorb as much stain are sanded back to the natural color. This leaves you the distinct striped pattern of curly maple. After the sanding apply a coat of BLO to give a soft yellow cast to the wood and when that is dry apply the top coat of your choice. Many additional coats of BLO and rubbing is the traditional method. Today a coating of lacquer, after the BLO, that is rubbed back to kill the gloss looks great and will keep the finish looking good for a long time. :cowboy:
 
A word of caution in using stains and dies on figured wood. The stain will grab in the figured maple (or any wood) where the chatoyance is. You'll end up with stripes. I've found that you can get a much more even color distribution by sanding down to 600, wiping with alcohol, and then sealing with Minwax pre-stain conditioner. The grain will pop then like crazy when the finish goes on.
 
Ironic how no one mentioned what has been used on maple for centuries, Aquafortis.

Before:
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After:
IMG_7645.JPG



This is what every longrifle was made from and how they were finished. I dare ANYONE to match this with a BLO finish. Yes a BLO finish does indeed look nice and I use that to but it pails compared.
 
mrmartyking said:
What is a good source for buying the boiled linseed oil?
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Home Despot and Lowes both usually carry it. Its in the paint section, in the area where they have solvents and thinners. Usually available in quart and gallon cans.

You can also use Tung Oil. It's harder to find - most "Tung Oil Finishes" are actually some kind of varnish that may or may not actually contain Tung Oil. Pure Tung Oil will enhance grain much like BLO, but it tends to not be as yellow. I've been using Hope's Tung Oil that I bought at a family-owned hardware store that isn't affiliated with one of the major chains.
 
Mahoney's utility finish. It is not just walnut oil. It dries hard, is food safe and darkens the wood minimally. Available from a number of places. Second choice BLO. I Use BLO to finish custom gun stocks. On those to get a deep finish it takes a number of applications. As stated Tung is good stuff but can be hard to find. Most is a blend. The bowl in the image is finished with Mahoney's
 

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