bowl finishes

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Status
Not open for further replies.

fshenkin94

Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2005
Messages
136
Location
Westerville, ohio.
I am starting to turn a few bowls and am wondering what people are using to finish them. Hoping that there aren't as many choices as for pens, but I think that is wishful thinking.
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

hazard

Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2007
Messages
142
Location
Evansville, wi, USA.
I use boiled linseed oil and beeswax. I got this from Richard Raffens book on bowl turning. I used to use the HUT bars but the finish would lift when it got wet

Chris
 

vick

Member
Joined
Nov 16, 2004
Messages
1,451
Location
Gilbert, AZ, USA.
For bowls that will not hold food I use Watco Danish oil and Miniwax Antique oil, or a home brew. For pieces that will hold food I use Tried and True Original formula (BLO BeesWax mix).

In reality any finish can be used, I just prefer the wipe on wipe off finished since they are very easy to use and you get consistent results.
 

Fred

Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2007
Messages
3,557
Location
N.E. Atlanta, Georgia U.S.A.
From one Fred to another Fred .... Greetings. After sanding with all the necessary grits of paper I move up to using a CA finish combined with Mylands Friction Polish, "shaken and not stirred." I first wipe on the CA with maybe three coats total. Then I sand using 0000 steel wool. Clean all the white dust off (residual CA). Then I buff with MM up 12000. Then I apply the Mylands Friction. All I can say is the finish is deep and hard and I like it as it looks like glass. Try it out! BTW, these bowls are not used for foods. [:D]
 

Fred

Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2007
Messages
3,557
Location
N.E. Atlanta, Georgia U.S.A.
Andrew, I am presently turning a 10" Spalted Maple bowl on commission of a customer. She drew it out and I am turning it for her. I think the smallest bowl I have turned lately in 25 years or so is about 4 inches wide and 18 inches deep. It was turned from a shaft of Cocobolo about 20-24 years ago. It did not however have the Myland and/or CA applied as it was kinda before their time.

And I buy the CA in 16 ounce bottles ll the time and keep them refrigerated until I use it. Then it's back to the refrigerator.

If you can get a pen made you don't "suck" as you say. I am sure that with each one you make it gets better, easier, and a bit more interesting. As I turn a lot of spalted woods I must make use of the CA as a problem solver. So far it has worked magic many, many times on woods that most folks would ever dream of turning. For what it would cost to send some of my wood to a stabilizer out west, I can turn around and buy several bottles of CA from an IAP member.

The advent of stabilization has given the turners of today a much needed bit of breathing room. Expensive - yes! Worth the expense - Definitely in my opinion! [:D]
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom