Bottle stopper supplies

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
See more from kevrob

kevrob

kevrob

Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2010
Messages
352
Location
Manhattan, KS 66502
Ok, this might sound like a stupid question, but I am going to place an order to get the supplies to turn bottle stoppers. For those of you that have done this before, do I need to get Tap set as well, or can you glue the turned top onto the stopper once it is turned and will the stopper stay in the chuck securely if not 'tapped'?
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
If I recall correctly the tap is for stoppers with large diameter deluxe stopper. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=19570&filter=bottle stopper
Has a 3/8 in thread. Other stoppers have a 6mm threaded stopper. They use this mandrel.
http://www.woodcraft.com/Catalog/Pr...=7592&ss=63f082d4-4e7c-4dad-9424-7a88f10fc45d
I have never used the deluxe stopper. Only tear dropped shapped one requireing the 6mm drill. Used the mandrel as the "tap". Epoxied the stopper threaded insert into the wood stopper. Now if its a softer wood I use a smaller drill bit. Hard wood slighty larger. No problems with them coming loose. Hope I helped.
 
Ruth Niles sells some of the best bottle stoppers produced. She has different types that attach in different ways. Her mandrel is also the best in my opinion. I have a PSI and a AS one and I like Ruth's the best. It is made to tap while you screw the blank on. Check them out here:

http://www.torne-lignum.com/
 
It will all depend upon which stopper you decide to purchase. Some come with threads, some come with no threads. If they are threaded whomever you purchase them from should tell you the correct sizes you will need. If you use threaded just be sure that when you tap the wood you don't go all the way to the bottom of the hole or it will wreck the threads and it be loose on your mandrel. If this happens and you're using a nice exotic you can take 4 tooth picks and some CA glue. Set them across from each other, glue in place and snip off any excess. It will fit nice and tight on the mandrel after that.
 
When using the 3/8 mandrel I use a 5/16" drill bit and then it does not slip. I use expoxy for attaching the stopper to the holder when completed. It fills in the thread gap nicely.
 
Thanks for all the information. I was thinking of using (or purchasing) The PSI bottle stopper lathe chuck. Is that a 3/8"? I can't tell from the descriptions and it doesn't necessarily say you need to tap it. I would love to get the one Ruth has, but it is a #2 mt and, of course, My lathe has a #1.
 
Silicone bottom taps do not use threads and work well - great to learn on.

Metal -- use stainless. I have had failure (corrosion and pits) on everything metal except stainless.

Some cork bottoms use 1/4 inch threads - got those from Lee Valley. These work well for many uses.

A tap or not a tap depends on what you are turning -- Acrylics like to be tapped. Brittle woods like to be tapped. -- Ebony gets drilled and tapped.

I like the MT2 taper adapters vs the one that mount in a drill chuck as there is less runout.

But you can make it all work if you fuss with it a bit more.
 
Thanks Ken, many have said to use the SS stoppers, so that is what I will get. I think I have looked at every website and guide and if I have read 10 items there were 10 different ways of doing it!
 
I use three different bottle stopper chucks and have never used a tap. Just adjust the size of your drill bit to get a tight fit. Most of the threaded bottle stoppers are 3/8" and a 23/64 bit generally works well.
 
If your headstock allows you to put a rod all the way through you can use a piece of 3/8" allthread .
2 wooden shims to center the rod front and back. 2 washers and 2 nuts to hold it in place.
You can epoxy a washer to the inside nut the size of your stopper base and that will give you a proper sized "bushing".
Most shops just have this stuff lying around so the cost is minimal.

I just feel "safer" drilling and tapping the hole.

Lee
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom