bottle stopper question

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bensoelberg

bensoelberg

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I'm looking to make my first bottle stopper. I don't anticipate making very many of these. Are the mandrel and bottom tap really necessary? I'll be using cocobolo, and figure that I can drill the hole and turn a jam chuck to use as a mandrel then just screw the bottle stopper into the blank. Is this a bad idea? Also, what type of finish do you use? I'd rather not go with CA for this one.
 
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bensoelberg said:
I'm looking to make my first bottle stopper. I don't anticipate making very many of these. Are the mandrel and bottom tap really necessary? I'll be using cocobolo, and figure that I can drill the hole and turn a jam chuck to use as a mandrel then just screw the bottle stopper into the blank. Is this a bad idea? Also, what type of finish do you use? I'd rather not go with CA for this one.
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the treaded mandrel is a basis for the threaded insert to bond the blank and the metal stopper. and i use a friction polish to finish them
 
I used a jam chuck when I first started turning these. It's a frustration and might turn you off stopper making entirely. My suggestion?

Go Cork. People like your stoppers because of the wood, not the shiney metal bit thats hidden in the bottle.

With the money you save on stoppers, by an $8 mandrel http://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Bottle-Stopper-Mandrel-16/dp/B003F073V6 for your jacobs chuck.

cork stoppers are $5 for 10 @ woodcraft and then get a $0.60 3/8 birch dowel.

For less than $20 you can make 10 stoppers and have fun doing it.
 
Several places have stoppers with silicone stoppers and wooden dowels that go into the stopper body. Drill the hole into the bottom of the stopper and glue the dowel to the stopper body. Put the dowel into a collet chuck, or regular 4 jaw chuck. Turn the stopper gently so as to not break the dowel. If you use a drill chuck, make sure to use a draw bar to secure the drill chuck to the head stock. You do not want the drill chuck to come loose from the head stock!!!

If you go with metal stoppers, use ONLY Stainless Steel! The other metal finishes corrode!

Tap sets are readily available for under $20.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=28075748&PMAKA=337-3981
 
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She wants the stainless steel bullet stopper from CSUSA, I'm mostly wondering whether I have to buy the mandrel and tap or if I can make due without them since I'm only going to be making this one.
 
bensoelberg said:
She wants the stainless steel bullet stopper from CSUSA, I'm mostly wondering whether I have to buy the mandrel and tap or if I can make due without them since I'm only going to be making this one.
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You can totally make them without. Totally. Jam chuck is your best bet. Bring some patience but know that it is possible.

If it feels to tight, sand it down.
If it feels to loose add some masking tape.

You could also MAKE a mandrel with a scrap of wood and a 3/8 carriage bolt. But for just one it seems kinda silly.
mandrelside.jpg
 
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Yes, you can use a jam chuck. You can also make your own chuck from a block of wood and a carriage bolt- either designed to mount in a scroll chuck, or that is threaded to fit directly onto your lathe spindle.

Whether you need a tap depends on the style stopper you are making. Metal stoppers as sold by CSUSA, PSI, Ruth Niles, etc, require a threaded hole to mount the stopper on the turning. But if you are using either the simple cork design, or the ribbed silicone design, the stopper mounts by gluing a dowel into the turning. In that case, you don't need a threaded hole.

You can thread a hole in soft wood using a 3/8" carriage bolt. But that probably won't work in a harder wood or in plastic.

I finish my stoppers using either WOP or waterbourn poly. Either takes several hours to apply enough coats while allowing drying time between applications, but if you make your own mandrels, you can work several stoppers in parallel. WOP has a slight amber color that looks very nice on wood with a strong grain, while the waterbourn version is essentially colorless and doesn't change the color of the wood. I usually apply 6-10 coats to build up a nice finish.

The other trick I use is to bore a 7/8" hole in the blank, about 1/16" deep, and then bore the mounting hole in the center. The shallow hole allows the stopper to recess slightly into the turning, so that the join between the turning and stopper is hidden from view when when the stopper is placed on a bottle. Looks a bit nicer.
 
You also need to know what the size of the stopper is because there is some difference between manufacturers. PSI has some that are thin, Niles and some others are 3/8".
You can use a hardened bolt that is 3/8" X 16 threads. You file the end or grind it on a grinder so that it has a taper and you can use it as a tap. Cut the square end off and use it in a jacobs chuck. Measure the end of the stopper so you can turn it and have it fit properly if you are using a metal stopper.
 
monophoto said:
Whether you need a tap depends on the style stopper you are making. Metal stoppers as sold by CSUSA, PSI, Ruth Niles, etc, require a threaded hole to mount the stopper on the turning. But if you are using either the simple cork design, or the ribbed silicone design, the stopper mounts by gluing a dowel into the turning. In that case, you don't need a threaded hole.

You can thread a hole in soft wood using a 3/8" carriage bolt. But that probably won't work in a harder wood or in plastic.
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I've made hundreds of stoppers using metal fittings and resin blanks. I've never bothered with the tap.
 
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