Boiling Blanks

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Gary Max

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Oct 30, 2004
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Southern Kentucky
Fired up the wood stove today----first time this year.
I have some Hickory Burl that was sealed in Anchorseal a couple of months ago that I am wanting to dry.
Here's the easy way to dry blanks I know of.
2 1/2 gallon bucket of water and a hot stove---I just leave it sit and brew all day long.
Tonight they will be placed on a drying rack to dry.
 

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I just sit the bucket on the stove when I build a fire and forget about it.
They come to a full boil in about a hour.
I do remove the blanks from the water while it is hot. Just pick the whole thing up and toss it in the drive then pick up the blanks.
This also removes the Anchorseal.
Drying roughed out bowl blanks is how I got started doing this to pen blanks.
I have a 20 gallon Stainless steel tank for bowl blanks.
 
There is a soap mixture used to soak green wood in to keep it from cracking too. I can't remember the exact amounts though. I have it written down somewhere.:redface:
 
For the folks that have asked----there is no presale for these blanks.
They will take a couple of weeks to air dry.
The are on the drying rack now and are looking great.
 
I did a write up on drying wood a few years back. from my homework on boiling wood (i am not expert) boiling actually ruptures the cells in the wood allowing the moisture to escape much quicker. and no this is not doing any harm to the final quality of the wood.
 
:smile: Not to infringe on this great thread of Gary's, but we - the IAP Forum - have a member that explains the 'process' quite well. This is the URL to his website ... http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com/boiling-green-wood.html

For several years I also have been boiling green wood bowl and pen blanks and have found the process to be quite useful as a step in the drying process. My blanks have not had anywhere near the amount of cracking and such as they did prior to using the process. BTW, another advantage is that the heat kills all hidden critters that may be lurking in the wood. :eek:

Be sure to read the additional informative articles Steven has on his main page as time permits... there is plenty of great information to be learned.
 
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Fred said:
:smile: Not to infringe on this great thread of Gary's, but we - the IAP Forum - have a member that explains the 'process' quite well. This is the URL to his website ... http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com/boiling-green-wood.html.

For several years I also have been boiling green wood bowl and pen blanks and have found the process to be quite useful as a step in the drying process. My blanks have not had anywhere near the amount of cracking and such as they did prior to using the process. BTW, another advantage is that the heat kills all hidden critters that may be lurking in the wood. :eek:

Be sure to read the additional informative articles Steven has on his main page as time permits... there is plenty of great information to be learned.
Click to expand...



Fred,

Just for fun, check out post #4 in this thread.

Great minds think alike! :smile:
 
I'm trying this on a cherry laurel bowl. The water is turning a deep red. That implies to me that there may be a color change from the boiling out. Anybody have that happen?
 
Gary ... My experience has been that the color removed is just barely "skin deep." The discolored water will possibly transfer the color to other woods in the pot IF they are lighter or of a different species.

ALWAYS boil same species wood at one time and you should avoid any possibility of color transfer.

BTW, I believe you will have fantastic results with this method. I also trust that you have read and will follow the directions that are posted here: http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com/boiling-green-wood.html

Br sure to post your likes/dislikes (if any) here for others to read about.
 
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I agree with Fred, this method gives great results. My only suggestion would be to let them air dry when you take them out of the pot. I wrapped a batch of willow up in paper towels to slow down the drying process, two weeks later they were covered in mold.
 
Keith ... I would recommend that you e-mail Steven directly and describe what it is that you have recently "discovered" and recovered. He may have some better and mnore expert advice to give you on such a valuable piece of wood.

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You may be able to reach him at this e-mail address (It is the only link I can find on his website other than those to his informative pages, etc.): woodturningvideoplus@comcast.net
 
Fred said:
Gary ... My experience has been that the color removed is just barely "skin deep." The discolored water will possibly transfer the color to other woods in the pot IF they are lighter or of a different species.

ALWAYS boil same species wood at one time and you should avoid any possibility of color transfer.

BTW, I believe you will have fantastic results with this method. I also trust that you have read and will follow the directions that are posted here: http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com/boiling-green-wood.html

Br sure to post your likes/dislikes (if any) here for others to read about.
Click to expand...

It seems this wood is a bit contrary, the orange color turned off and did not return when I put on the tung oil which usually brought out the color.
Seems the sap and juices were where the color resided in this species. I would note the wood is cream and brown when first cut and changed drastically in contact with air, heat or tung oil.
I dried it down in a little microwave on defrost for at least an hour or more. I had the piece in a paper bag to control the drying a bit. No cracks other than what was already in the wood before the first turning.
 
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