Boat Yard Casting Resin

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
C

cnirenberg

Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2004
Messages
2,700
Location
Fort Myers, Fl
Has anyone ever used this particular type of resin to cast? I picked it up at a local Ace Hardware, it was only 8$ for a quart. It came with a small bottle of catalyst. Some web sites show it is made by Composites One, the can calls out Evercoat as the mfr. Just wondering, whether or not it was worth the effort.
Thanks in Advance.
 

Attachments

  • 518.jpg
    518.jpg
    55.3 KB · Views: 206
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
It's definitely not a casting resin. So I would guess it will be the brownish red color of most other resins. Unless you want it tinted black or red I don't think you'll be able to do much with it. Also it will probably be a real bear to turn if at all. It will probably just shatter.
 
I have used polyester resins that are for boating uses and they will work,but most have a color to them.They can be used for color castings from my experience.I'm still experimenting with different local materials to get costs down,but not compromise quality of the blanks produced.Let us know how the casting goes.I will say that I have started to use syringes to measure the hardener(drop are not all the same)I have had much better results with this method.The blanks are not as brittle and turn much nicer.Do a search on the subject and you will find great information.Good luck,Victor
 
I have noticed that the resin I used dried more clear then it looked when I mixed it.I would just cast a blank or two with nothing added so you can see the true color it dries,and how well it turns.I think that the brittle factor is all in the amount of hardener you use.Good Luck,Victor
 
If it's what I'm thinking, it could be clear. You paste it on then put fiberglass cloth down then paste more over the top. The reason for the fiberglass is for strength because it would be brittle otherwise. As a pen though, it's thinner and takes far less abuse than a car, especially a car in Michigan. It might work out for you. At $8 you have little to lose.
 
I figured it was a good deal to experiment anyway. I'm not too interested in doing any clear casting at the moment, just needed some opaque black and/or red. I'll try some tonight and post some results. Thanks for the input.
 
That is not a true casting resin , it will work but there are a few things to watch for .
First , this resin is meant for laminating fiberglass so it has already been pre-catalyzed a little hot so the thin layers get hot enough to cure so use less then recommended amounts of catalyst on something a thick as a pen blank . A full sized mold 6"x3"x3/4" will get quite hot if you use the amount they say and your blanks will be very brittle and may even crack in the mold .
Second , as mentioned this type of resin is not clear in a pen blank size cast so it will only work with darker colors .
 
Here's the update:
I poured about 1-1/2 oz and used approximately 16 drops of catalyst. The Evercoat web site says to add 12 drops per oz of the hardener. So it looks like I'm slightly under the required amount. However the cast came out a bit like rubber, that is it is a bit spongy.
 
cnirenberg said:
Here's the update:
I poured about 1-1/2 oz and used approximately 16 drops of catalyst. The Evercoat web site says to add 12 drops per oz of the hardener. So it looks like I'm slightly under the required amount. However the cast came out a bit like rubber, that is it is a bit spongy.
Click to expand...

What did you add to the cast? Not all PRs react the same to additives.
 
jleiwig said:
What did you add to the cast? Not all PRs react the same to additives.
Click to expand...

I used Alumilite black dye. I didn't used a whole lot, I need to add some mineral spirits to it (it's a bit thick). Charlie (Newlondon88) suggested that I could heat it up a bit, and that whatever I cast it in allowed the heat to dissapate too quickly, which is probably true. It will be about 94F here today, so the inside of my truck should hit 120F, I'll leave in there to cure.
 
cnirenberg said:
I used Alumilite black dye. I didn't used a whole lot, I need to add some mineral spirits to it (it's a bit thick). Charlie (Newlondon88) suggested that I could heat it up a bit, and that whatever I cast it in allowed the heat to dissapate too quickly, which is probably true. It will be about 94F here today, so the inside of my truck should hit 120F, I'll leave in there to cure.
Click to expand...

I don't know the composition of the alumalite dye, but you shouldn't cross mix platforms. Stick to alumalite dye for alumalite, and resin dye for resin.
 
jleiwig said:
I don't know the composition of the alumalite dye, but you shouldn't cross mix platforms. Stick to alumalite dye for alumalite, and resin dye for resin.
Click to expand...

I'll try that next time. The manufacturer makes a colorant, I didn't want to make the extra expense if this wasn't going to work out. Thanks.
 
cnirenberg said:
I'll try that next time. The manufacturer makes a colorant, I didn't want to make the extra expense if this wasn't going to work out. Thanks.
Click to expand...

The only reason I say that is that I'm not sure what the composition is of alumalite dye. Ultimately it comes down to experimentation. I have powdered dye that I can add to the MEKP in minute amounts to get a transparent color without any effect. However other certain dyes cause lots of problems in PR.
 
Too Much MEKP

cnirenberg said:
Here's the update:
I poured about 1-1/2 oz and used approximately 16 drops of catalyst. The Evercoat web site says to add 12 drops per oz of the hardener. So it looks like I'm slightly under the required amount. However the cast came out a bit like rubber, that is it is a bit spongy.
Click to expand...


I use 3M Bondo Fiberglass Resin ($29 Gal) for everything except clear casting. The instructions say to use 12 drops per oz, same as the Ace brand. WAY TOO MUCH. I use 4 drops per oz and get a good cure in about 3 hours.

The tints I use are:

black and white - powder coat from HF

color tints - either Pearl Ex or Stamp-N Stuff

I have had no problem with soft or gummy cures.
 
Larry,
I'll try that tonight. I made up some this morning, using 24 drops for 1.5 oz. The instructions said to increase drops 50% if the resin didn't cure properly. When I get home, we will see. Thanks for the suggestions.
 
cnirenberg said:
Larry,
I'll try that tonight. I made up some this morning, using 24 drops for 1.5 oz. The instructions said to increase drops 50% if the resin didn't cure properly. When I get home, we will see. Thanks for the suggestions.
Click to expand...


Cris,
I think you are going the wrong way with the MEKP. The instructions that come with the resin are for laying up fiberglass cloth with the resin. The resin needs heat to cure, and with the thin (approx 1/16") layer they are talking about, more MEKP is required to develop that heat.

Casting a pen blank, requires less MEKP not more. The thickness of the blank allows for the heat to be generated and maintained. If you use the amount of MEKP stated in the instructions, you will generate too much heat too fast, causing the cast to be brittle and it could crack.

You might want to look at the whitepaper that is linked in the thread "PR Whitepaper. It is a little long, but has alot of good info on how PR cures.

Just remember, The right way is the way that works for you, not the other guy.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom