BLO under friction polish?

[Munsterlander]

I originally posted this under "To BLO or not to BLO" but since it's kind of a different question I thought maybe it would be better to start a new topic. Here's the original post:

I haven't yet gotten up the nerve to try the CA/BLO finish (will soon), so far I've been using EEE, then Myland's sanding sealer (I know, why EEE _and_ Myland's sanding sealer - it just seems to work better for me...), then Myland's friction polish, then wax. I am making a pen using desert ironwood for a friend that is just here this weekend (and I don't want to try out CA/BLO for the first time on that), but wondered if it would be OK to use some BLO to get the pop but under the friction polish instead of CA. Paul's May 19th post got me thinking about it - so I'm thinking BLO then my normal process. Is this OK? Crazy? Thanks.

 

[VisExp]

I think you would need to allow the BLO at least 24 hours to dry.

 

[leehljp]

As Keith said, BLO needs to dry or cure, what ever is the right term. In using with CA, BLO causes a mild to not-so-mild reaction with CA, which creates heat and causes curing. BLO by itself takes time to evaporate or cure.

But, in applying BLO to pop the grain or instill a warmer hue to the wood, the effects can had without having to wait the many hours - by applying the BLO with the lathe running (slowly) and using the applicator/paper towel to apply and then keeping pressing with light to moderate pressure to create a little friction / heat. This speeds up the curing time considerably.

 

[Buzz]

This is how I do cutlery handles. BLO applied to spinning item and dried by friction with the paper towel. A couple of coats of Shellawax applied the same way and it is finished and looking good.

Pens though always get the CA/BLO treatment.