Blo finish anyone?

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MedWoodWorx

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I am trying for the first time boiled lineseed oil as a finish for a wooden pen i made. I already applied 3 coats after sanding up to 1000 grit. My goal is to apply about 5 coats and then buff it ( maybe with some wax). Has anyone tried that before? I want to switch from pens plus and walnut oil to blo since it cures harder. Here is the pen so far, cheers
 

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Looks good. I don't use BLO as a top coat because it has super duper long cure times and doesn't really build a film. If I'm looking for an oil finish that won't have a topcoat on it, I use Danish oil since it tends to end up glossier (I think it has some varnish in it or something).
 
Yes danish oil is a mix containing some varnish and thiners. I don't know if this experiment will lead me anywhere since olivewood is not neither that hard or oily like cocobolo for instance. Its my first kitless pen and i didnt want to risk my good wood blanks. Anyway the good thing with this clipless pen is that i can re finish it anytime i want to.
 
Never used BLO as a finish itself but have alternated BLO and CA glue, starting with BLO. I add at least 4-6 applications of each.
I may be opening a can of worms here. Its unintentional. I'm asking because I am curious about the method.

Why would you alternate applications of BLO and CA? Won't the CA prevent the BLO from soaking through?
 
I have finished 50 or 60 pens with the BLO/CA method. It works very nicely and requires only minimal sanding and then a buff, finishing a pen quicker than anything else I have tried. You can find Don Ward's instructions on here somewhere.
Lately I have been trying GluBoost, but the jury is still out on wood pens. It works great on acrylics and other plastics I have tried so far. Only issue for me is it goes on a little rough and requires what seems like a lot of sanding and recoating compared to BLO/CA. My shop is in limbo until I get my DC up and running. Other crap has been intruding, like doctors and car problems and fixing old equipment.

Mike
 
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