Dario,
I personally don't think so. I have drilled several, very slowly, same as I do snakewood. I had one snakewood and one ebony that sat for several months after being drilled that never cracked. But after I glued the tubes in and waited a week to finish them - they did well for a few weeks, then cracks appeared.
I am WELL aquainted with wood movement and cracking in flat work. Except for marquetery and veneering (which uses thin wood), gluing wood in which the grains are going to move two different directions, you will have cracking! Period! Pen blanks move in multi directions, and gluing them on a tube prevent the movement. Breadboard ends on tables are made the way they are so that the wood can move.
I have seen numerous discussions on this forum about wood movement but none that deal with the multitude of wood movement directions on the pen blank, on a metal tube, with humidity and heat. It is not the drill that causes so much problem, but the front to back, side to side, inside to outside and end to end natural <b>movement</b> of the wood, and being a <b>brittle wood</b> that is locked down by non moving glue on a non moving tube, -cracks will happen!
Breadboard ends on tables move as much 3/8 inch over a season (contracting and expanding that much). They are glued at one point - in the center to allow for the movement outward to the ends. If not glued or attached only in the center, it WILL crack the table. And pen blank don't just move in one direction. They move in 360 circle as well as linear, but are glued down to prevent this. Being brittle, it will happen.
The reason that we don't see more of this cracking in pens is because as long as <b>most</b> woods are no more than 1/4 inch thick, gluing will do exactly as in plywood or veneers. Most Pen turners don't even think on this subject. They glue to hold the blank to the tube without giving a thought to the movement question. Most of the time, we don't have to think in these terms, but for brittle wood . . . that is another ball game.
All of this is why I am thinking about the rubber epoxy route. I looked up rubber epoxy on Google and could not find it in the US (only rubber added as a filler to epoxy). We do have rubber epoxy in Japan that cures kind of an off white color and is stiff but flexible. I have used it on other things where minute' movement was necessary. Manny has rubber CA in black. I have it but have not tried it.