Black Acrylic finish

[Lmstretch]

Over the years I have made several pens using black acrylic pens blanks, and love the way they look. However, many times if I look at the finish product in a bright light, I can still see scratches.

My finishing process is after I turn them to shape, I dry sand then down to about 2000 grit, then wet sand them using the micr mesh pads from 1500-12000 and then use magic juice from Stadium Pen Blanks, and have even put them on a buffing wheel. Unfortunately with the pure black blanks I can see small scratches. What have you done to pure black blanks to get a scratch free finish?

Thanks
Stretch

 

[TonyL]

Over 12 years ago when I started, I thought I was getting real good until are started turning very dark acrylics and using a 10x loupe. Your process is as good as any. try going to Meguiars 105 and 205 after the MM and see if there is an improvement.

 

[Lmstretch]

Over 12 years ago when I started, I thought I was getting real good until are started turning very dark acrylics and using a 10x loupe. Your process is as good as any. try going to Meguiars 105 and 205 after the MM and see if there is an improvement.

Thanks, I will give that a try.

 

[Todd in PA]

I would eliminate the dry sanding. I begin my wet sanding at 1200 grit.

Micromesh replaces deeper scratches with increasingly shallow ones. But all forms of sanding are going to produce parallel scratch lines that draw the eyes attention. Lateral are less obvious on a round barrel pen than radial.

A buffing wheel randomizes the sanding so that you don't get a bunch of parallel lines.

The best way to see the scratches is to hold the barrel under your chin with a light source above you creating a wide reflective hotspot.

 

[d_bondi]

Along the lines of what Todd is saying...

What grit do you start your (dry) sanding at? Many of the seemingly impossible to remove scratches are created with the lower grits.

I'd recommend avoiding anything below 800 if at all possible.

 

[bugradx2]

I may get turned on my ear with this suggestion....

What about a layer of thin or ultrathin CA to fill any scratches you may have? I typically dry sand to 600 and then put CA over that before doing any level of additional polish, buffing, micromesh, magic juice etc

 

[jttheclockman]

I suggest, avoid all dry sanding. Use a skew as the last tool to touch the blank. Then if you MM use water and sand parallel with the blank asfter each pad. Finish off with McGuires scratch removing auto polish and then with their wax. Do not be too critical with yourself though. Unless you are selling a museum grade pen people are not carrying loops with them when buying pens.

 

[leehljp]

1. John uses the skew and I often use a very sharp scraper as the last touch the finish. And yes, you can use finely tuned/sharpened tools to do what the finest sanding can do.
IF you are turning wood and brass or aluminum or other metals, sanding will SMEAR the metallic content onto the wood making a mess. A sharp tool will smooth the blank and keep the metal from smearing onto the wood at the same time.

2. With pens, it takes mild paradigm shift in thinking. This is not flat work. Flat work says that 400 SP is the most needed. An old wives (man's) tale is that finish needs scratches or grooves to hold onto. (But rear view mirrors stay on stuck on glass smooth windshields with CA). John above, along with some others and myself START at 400 or 600 or more for finishing when we do use sandpaper.