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mbellek

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Clean the brush I use for my polyurethane finish? Do I need to clean it between coats? Will it dry and make my brush bristles immobile?

I couldn't find anything about caring for your brushes...

What about sponge-brushes? (Also, do you think those are better?)
 
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The care of brushes used with polyurethane is in very fine print on the can, as is what needs to be done between coats. Generally, no matter what the thinner is, the brushes should be cleaned after each use. If you want to extend cleaning intervals, I've had some luck with keeping brushes in ziploc bags. This generally works for a day or two. Foam brushes are okay, you don't have to clean them, and you can take the old foam off and use the plastic piece as a glue spreader. Poly is not my finish of choice for pens, but that's a whole 'nuther can of worms. Lots of people use it and like it. Use whatever you think gives you the best results.
 
By the way, I didn't think I saw any brush-care instructions on the can when I looked earlier--I just double-checked and there is nothing on *my* can about it. So I just didn't want you to think I ask stuff without trying to find the answer myself first [:D]
 
If it's a water based polyurethane just wash in warm water, no soap.
Since your can has no cleaning instructions maybe your supposed to just toss the brush after every coat.[:D]
 
Yeah right!! Actually, I saw some foam brushes that were like 5 for 99cents... If I was doing a whole batch (sometimes I make like 5 at a time) I could afford that.

I have oil-based, I believe. I have some mineral spirits. I have been using that. It seems to be okay. I guess I'll find out tomorrow if my brush is crusted over!!
 
I knew you made hair sticks--I thought you were trying something new. I've always preferred applying thinned poly with a rag, but I don't know how well that would let you get into the little grooves. Artists brushes would work for that, and Michaels has some that are very inexpensive. (3 for $1?)
 
Ultimate cleaning instructions I learned from a pro painter that used $30 brushes and didn't ever need to replace them:

Use three cans of thinner labeled 1, 2, 3. Rinse the brush in each can in that order being careful to work the thinner all the way up to the metal band and gently flexing the bristles in all four directions.

By the time you get to can 3 the thinner in it should remain pretty much clean "fer ever an' ever". When #1 gets nasty, dump it and move everything up a number and refill 3 with fresh thinner.

Once clean, shake the brush out then wrap it in newspaper folding it to keep the bristles in flat and tight with the tip end just slightly narrower than the base end and folding the newspaper over 1" past the tip, parallel to the tip (so at an angle for an angled brush). Now wrap a rubber band around the folded newspaper over the metal part of the brush to hold it all in shape and hang it until dry or you need the brush again.

A bit of a pita but saves a lot of money and allows you to use top quality brushes without loss of the quality over the years. (at least until your SO or child use it and don't follow the procedure; then you buy a new $30 brush)

GK
 
Melanie, cleaning and keeping your brushes clean is important and you've already been given some good advice here. Concerning sponge brushes, I used to use them on all my flatwork b/c I got less brush marks, they were cheap and I'd toss them between coats. Notice I said, "...used to use...". That is b/c I now spray all my flatwork if I use poly as a finish.
 
I will echo the advice already given. I worked with a pro-painter and have done some work with poly. Working with poly, you really should clean your brush if you're not going to use it for a while. The time between coats is long enough so that you should clean it out, even if you're using a water based poly. It really doesn't take long to clean the brush properly. The method using 3 cans of thinner is spot on. Best way to clean a brush. And good brushes are worth cleaning. The can might not necessarily tell you how to clean it, but it should say something about what to clean it with.

You can get away with putting a roller cover in a ziploc bag if you're working with latex paint, but not a brush and especially not if you're using oil based anything. Latex paint will stay wet for weeks that way because it dries from the surface as it comes in contact with air. Not so with oil.
 
FWIT, I find that the 4" to 6" thick foam used to package electronic parts for shipment to make an excellent source for making my own foam brushes. I VERY CAREFULLY cut them down to whatever width I want using my bandsaw. A razor blade works, but they can be very ragged. Just KEEP the fingers well away from the blade as sometimes the danged stuff will catch and yank it away from me. That usually happens when trying to cut a small piece of foam.

I now always use nothing smaller than four (4") just to keep my fingers away from the blade. Cut at an angle, flip the foam over and re-cut at another angle. I can make hundreds in just a few minutes ... but I find that it is far easier to store the foam and cut as many as I need when I am ready.

I use then for a couple of coatings then toss them for a fresh one. No problems so far and Istill got all my fingers attached. [:D]
 
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