best pen mandrel material?

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C

cleanslate

Member
Joined
May 30, 2011
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20
Location
Carsonville, Pa
I am tired of bending my mandrel shafts every time I have even the slightest little catch. Having said that I am considering ordering some dowel material from somewhere to make some mandrel shafts out of. What I am considering getting is either titanium or tungsten carbide. What I am wanting to know is if anyone out there knows which of these metals is least likely to bend and not bend back (like my cheap steel ones do.) Any help would be greatly appreciated as my birthday season is here as of tomorrow which means gift season is here as of a week or two ago (what can I say, I'm always late to the party.)
 
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I would be more concerned with correcting the issue thats bending the mandrel than replacing it. If you replace with a stronger material, whatever you are doing that is causing the bend will still put that force somewhere.

Are you using an adjustable mandrel to keep it just longer than the blank? Why type of tool are you getting a catch with?
 
I would also recommend that you should consider trying turning between centers (TBC) without using a mandrel. Most folks that try TBC never go back. You can do it with regular bushings from any supplier, but the steel 60 degree bushings offered by JohnnyCNC are much better. ALl you'll need is the bushings a 60 degree dead center for your headstock and a 60 degree live center for your tail stock. Just a thought...

Jim Smith
 
Jim Smith said:
I would also recommend that you should consider trying turning between centers (TBC) without using a mandrel. Most folks that try TBC never go back. You can do it with regular bushings from any supplier, but the steel 60 degree bushings offered by JohnnyCNC are much better. ALl you'll need is the bushings a 60 degree dead center for your headstock and a 60 degree live center for your tail stock. Just a thought...

Jim Smith
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+1 Couldn't have said it better myself! www.penturnersproducts.com Great products great person IAP member
 
Turning between centers will not stop the problem of catches! Like Dean, I would advise Cleanslate to correct his turning technique to eliminate the catches. Turning between centers is an excellent way to turn pens but is not the cure all for every pen turning problem that is presented here. Catches hard enough to bend a mandrel need to be addressed and corrected.

I use drill rod and make my own mandrels and turn one barrel at a time. Mandrels are adjusted just a bit longer than the blank: shorter = stronger. No threading needed when the mandrel is held with a collet chuck and mandrel saver.

Do a good turn daily!
Don
 
The replys to your post are probably true, but do not answer your question. I bent mandrels on a regular basis and went to the Mandrel Saver Tailstock Center. Not being 100% satisfied, I bought 0-1 precision ground stock in .246 diameter cut it to desired length as needed. The 0-1 is available from MSC Industrial Supply. This ain't the only way, but has worked very well for me.

Ben
 
Neither material is home workshop friendly. The titanium will bend just like the stronger steels. Titanium is a difficult material to work because it will work harden instantly when cutting if the tool rubs destroying the edge and ultimately the cutter. The carbide will not bend but when you reach its limit (harder than steel but not as bend resistant) it will shatter with the resulting projectiles coming at you! You can see for yourself by taking a 1/4" solid carbide router bit, put it in a vice and bang it from the side with a hammer. Do the same with steel the same size.

I go along with what has been said already. Perfect your turning technique so you don't have catches and consider turning between centres.
 
I don't see why a catch would bend a mandrel...how tight are you putting the tailstock up to the mandrel?

As in cooking, sharp tools makes things easier and safer... I used to cut myself occassionally in the kitchen when I'd press hard with a dull knife while trying to cut chocolate or carrots or things like that. Buying better knives with good steel and keeping them sharp fixed that. The same philosophy applies to the shop - sharp tools, light cuts, and be careful! :smile:
 
Derrick --

Those catches are one of the (explective deleted) challenges. Even experience turners get then --- but when starting they are an agrivation.

Mandrel rods are "D" sized. The same size as a "D" drill bit.

They become very easy to make if you use a collet holding fixture (adjustable fixture or a collet chuck) and a mandrel saver on the tailstock.
 
I should have mentioned that I use O-1 (oil hardened) drill rod: letter D size. Good luck,
Don

BKelley said:
I bought 0-1 precision ground stock in .246 diameter cut it to desired length as needed. The 0-1 is available from MSC Industrial Supply. This ain't the only way, but has worked very well for me.
Ben
Click to expand...
 
joefyffe said:
Jim Smith said:
I would also recommend that you should consider trying turning between centers (TBC) without using a mandrel. Most folks that try TBC never go back. You can do it with regular bushings from any supplier, but the steel 60 degree bushings offered by JohnnyCNC are much better. ALl you'll need is the bushings a 60 degree dead center for your headstock and a 60 degree live center for your tail stock. Just a thought...

Jim Smith
Click to expand...

+1 Couldn't have said it better myself! www.penturnersproducts.com Great products great person IAP member
Click to expand...

+2 For TBC, I have modified most of my standard bushings for use on 60* centers. I chuck them up in an appropriate size collet then using the tailstock and a drill chuck with a 1/2"x60* pilot drill. I cut just enough out of the large end to give me some surface area for the centers. They are still usable on the mandrel if I ever wanted to use it again.
 
BKelley said:
The replys to your post are probably true, but do not answer your question.
Ben
Click to expand...

That is true... However - sometimes not answering the direct question is a better answer. Both a stronger rod and turning between centers MIGHT stop him from getting bent rods, but a catch that is strong enough to bend a rod will cause other issues even if the bent rod problem goes away.

I would hate if we just said "xyz material is the best mandrel matter" just to have him come back angry that those are bending too!
 
Regarding catches: how close is your tool rest to the work? Closer generally means fewer catches. If you can't get your rest any closer, you may need a shorter tool rest.

I agree with alphageek, getting rid of the catches is much better than making a mandrel that can withstand them. Make sure your tools are sharp and your tool rest is correctly positioned. If you still get catches, then there's something else going wrong in your technique.
 
You've gotten a lot of good advice, foremost of which is to find a club or mentor to help you learn. "Turning" is not just owning or having access to a lathe. There is safety, people die every year in accidents involving lathes, technique, good and bad, sharpening, very important, and continuing education. A lot of available info about turning is online and in print, but you would be amazed how many "turners" can't take advantage of it because they didn't learn to read and write. Take advantage of all opportunities that come your way. If I may suggest American Association of Woodturners - Official Website which is the home of the American Association of Woodturners and contains a wealth of information. Good Luck and be Safe!:biggrin:
 
nativewooder said:
You've gotten a lot of good advice, foremost of which is to find a club or mentor to help you learn. "Turning" is not just owning or having access to a lathe. There is safety, people die every year in accidents involving lathes, technique, good and bad, sharpening, very important, and continuing education. A lot of available info about turning is online and in print, but you would be amazed how many "turners" can't take advantage of it because they didn't learn to read and write. Take advantage of all opportunities that come your way. If I may suggest American Association of Woodturners - Official Website which is the home of the American Association of Woodturners and contains a wealth of information. Good Luck and be Safe!:biggrin:
Click to expand...


I'd also suggest that the best place to learn about pen turning would be the IAP. Have a look around the library (link at the top of the page, in the blue banners), ask questions, and look through the archives. There are video tips in there as well, or you can check out youtube.

If you wanted a personal lesson, I'd suggest looking into visiting the IAP chapters - as there are a large number of them throughout the country.
 
alphageek said:
BKelley said:
The replys to your post are probably true, but do not answer your question.
Ben
Click to expand...

That is true... However - sometimes not answering the direct question is a better answer. Both a stronger rod and turning between centers MIGHT stop him from getting bent rods, but a catch that is strong enough to bend a rod will cause other issues even if the bent rod problem goes away.

I would hate if we just said "xyz material is the best mandrel matter" just to have him come back angry that those are bending too!
Click to expand...

I agree, he needs to be treating the underlying problem (technique causing the catches) and not just trying to fix the symptom (bent shaft).

I had this happen once when trying to use a round tipped carbide cutter on some tough burl and the wood just sucked the tool right out of my hand and took the mandrel in the process. So I went back to my trusty skew and a slicing attack on the woods and no more problems. The carbide cutter is strictly for harder trustone material from now on, where the material is too hard to dig in and catch.
 
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