Before and after, black and copper

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skiprat

skiprat

Passed Away Mar 22, 2022
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I have used copper several times but always matched it with dark green, which I reckon is a classic combination, but I decided to have a go using black pr.

A bit of water pipe and a 16mm copper stud were harmed in the making of this pen....:biggrin:

I think it turned out ok, even though the body and the cap somehow ended up being the same length...:confused:

BTW......if you haven't turned copper.......trust me, it's a pig to turn !!:frown:

Hope you like it too.:biggrin:
 

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The dimensions of the body and cap are no distraction to me - they appear fine and look appealing with the complete pen.

The copper and black PR match well.

I think you may underestimate the finished product!

But... I've roasted a pig; barbecued pork; smoked pork; grilled pork; served it Indian; Southern US; etc... But never turned a pig... I'll trust your experience.

Oh, Nice pen
 
That is a very rich looking pen !!!! I like the balance of top to bottom, and often lengthen the cap myself. What did you put on the copper to keep it from oxidizing ?? Jim S
 
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mark james said:
The dimensions of the body and cap are no distraction to me - they appear fine and look appealing with the complete pen.

The copper and black PR match well.

I think you may underestimate the finished product!

But... I've roasted a pig; barbecued pork; smoked pork; grilled pork; served it Indian; Southern US; etc... But never turned a pig... I'll trust your experience.

Oh, Nice pen
Click to expand...

Mark; All it takes to turn a pig is a big spit and a 3/4 hp motor. Jim S
 
You did good. I was just reading last week, copper is too gummy to turn. So I let it go. Until now :biggrin: I think it looks nice with black. Thanks for a look at it. AND, convincing me copper can be used for pen parts. Guess I'll have to fight the pig.:biggrin:
 
Chuck, I find that light cuts at around 1000rpm with a nice sharp tool works. Use some lube on the cutter for the last few passes and hopefully it doesn't gum up on the tool and mark the piece.
With threading with taps and dies, don't keep backing up, just keep going. I found that backing up rips the threads.

Have a go, you'll be fine.:biggrin:
 
skiprat said:
Chuck, I find that light cuts at around 1000rpm with a nice sharp tool works. Use some lube on the cutter for the last few passes and hopefully it doesn't gum up on the tool and mark the piece.
With threading with taps and dies, don't keep backing up, just keep going. I found that backing up rips the threads.

Have a go, you'll be fine.:biggrin:
Click to expand...
Thanks so much Steve. That's exactly what I needed to know. :wink: Got one in the works right now but, will get things in order. Sounds like fun!
 
Piggy gum, or Gummy pig...which is it. :rolleyes::confused:

If Skip says it is less than fully fun to turn, I will turn to other materials (pun intended).

Now for the more important part of my post: Skip, that is a DY-NO-MITE looking pen. I would love to have one like that, but one that would maintain that beautiful, bright copper shine. To me, patinad-out copper just looks like last years plumbing. :bulgy-eyes:
 
Glorious Pen, Steven.
Love the Contrast between the Polished Copper, and the Black PR.
The Equal length gives the Pen the look of a Scroll Case, and when opened, the revealed Pen Profile is Fantastic.
Superb Craftsmanship throughout, Excellent Finish, and Great Photographs.
Outstanding Concept
Congratulations
Brian.
 
Regarding the shine...I've seen that question asked several times about copper and brass ( and sometimes, aluminium ) oxidizing and losing it's shine.
Is there anything that can be applied short of powder coating, to maintain it??

Where's Brad when you need him...??:biggrin:
 
Steven, I read a thread the other day, about a product he referred to as CC. I can't recall the proper name, nor can I find that thread. It's water based and, supposed to be or many materials. An alternative to CA. I'm wondering if this could work. Sound familiar? I'll look around some more.

I don't know if copper can be anodized. Where IS Brad? Indeed!

Found it in Market Research forum. Craft Coat by Crashmph. Sorry I'm not able to post a link using my tablet.
 
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LMAO !!! :biggrin:
You haven't changed a bit Butch !! :biggrin:

Ya know....you could partake a bit and show me how it's done....:tongue:

Hopefully you will be up and running for the 2016 Bash...:wink:
 
skiprat said:
Regarding the shine...I've seen that question asked several times about copper and brass ( and sometimes, aluminium ) oxidizing and losing it's shine.
Is there anything that can be applied short of powder coating, to maintain it??

Where's Brad when you need him...??:biggrin:
Click to expand...


Hello Skip

Another fine looking pen. I think the proportions look just fine. The mix of materials go well.

I too would like to see Brad back here where he belongs.

To answer your question from what I know and have used is basic. The only way to preserve the shine is to coat it with some sort of clear finish. People like to use lacquers. The problem there is it will crack over time especially if dropped. If it is something that does not get handled it probably will work well. I do powdercoat and have done so with my bullet pens that I use to make. But what that does is turns the copper a deeper color as in the bullet on this pen. It is from the heat. Pen is shown.

I have used this product on a garden wind chime a few years ago which was made from sheet copper roofing material. Unfortunately I do not have any photos and do not have the ornament any more. But had it for a couple years and it was outside all year long and withstood the sun rain and cold. The copper stayed shiny and did not pit. You need something with UV protection. I was going to powdercoat it but thought the workings would sieze so I went with spraying this stuff. Might be something to look at. Or you could just sell a polish such as Brasso with the pen and when it dulls they will shine it.


https://www.everbritecoatings.com/index.html


 
Thanks for that info John.
This product from that link you gave, looks interesting.

To be honest, in this instance there is no reason why the recipient couldn't just use Brasso now and then like you said. Of course, if the material wasn't plastic, but wood or other absorbent stuff, then that wouldn't work.:smile:

Thanks again for all the comment guys.:wink:
 
JT
Is everbrite a thick varnish or a thin coating that is barely seen. I have another application that I need a rust preventative but it can't be a varnish
Thanks
 
Penultimate said:
JT
Is everbrite a thick varnish or a thin coating that is barely seen. I have another application that I need a rust preventative but it can't be a varnish
Thanks
Click to expand...

Mike

There are different products for different applications. The stuff i used is the consistancy of lacquer. In fact I used a spray gun to apply and it has the same burn in affect as lacquer where one coat melts into the next. Read the instructions for complete dos and don'ts. It does take a few days to cure. Clean items is a must as is in powdercoating. It is a clear overcoat product.
 
Brilliant! On subject of polished or not I have found that opinions are split 50/50. I bought some metal lacqueur but the buyer for my prototype kitless bullet twist pen actually said that she did not want it polished - she liked the developing patina. Two more similar ones also sold. Customer knows best?
 
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