Bearing Replacement on Jet 1014...

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Len Shreck

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Nov 9, 2009
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It seems that I am going to have to replace the bearing in the headstock of my Jet 1014. I have been having a problem with a wobble on pen mandrels and slightly out of round pens and the a few days ago I was turning a few Acrylic pens back to back and I started getting a noise from the head stock I stopped the lathe and made sure all bolts and stuff was tight and noticed that the headstock was hotter then it has ever been. I continued to finish the pens but I kept a close eye on it and it kept getting hotter and hotter so I made some inquires through PM's and was told what I figured that it is most likely the bearings going bad. I bought the lathe used in November I think it was and have no idea if or when the bearing were ever changed. So if anyone has done this on an older Jet 1014, before they were white, mine is blue. Any and all advise could and would be not only appreciated but helpful. Thanks as always.
Len
 
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Len Shreck

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Thanks Tim any idea where would have bearings like these? I dont think an auto parts store would have them. Are they something that I would need to order from Jet or is there another place online I would be able to order them from? Sorry I have never done this before so I am not sure where to even get parts and stuff. Len
 

Dave_M

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Any recommendations for a place to order the bearings? The headstock on my 1014 is getting really hot at times. It doesn't feel lose and I'm not having any oor issues, but the heat has me concerned. I can't hold my hand on it for more than 2 or 3 seconds.
 

Len Shreck

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Whats the difference between Shielded Bearings and sealed bearings? I found bearings on VXB.com all the way up to full ceramic ones. Jet Tools wants about 50.00 for the both bearings before shipping. VXB I can get Shielded bearings for like 4.00 - 5.00 each. Sealed bearings from VXB isn't that much more.
 
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pensbydesign

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ware, ma, USA.
i was lucky and found a place that only sold bearing localy, look in the yellow padges you may get lucky also, what i will tell you is get the best bearings you can find, the ones from jet i was replacing every year, when i whent with better ones they havebeen in their now for three years and they cost me half the price that jet was asking for.
 

Wildman

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Jacksonville, NC, USA.
Cannot find my manual this morning, so do not have the size, but your bearings are doubled metal shield indicated by ZZ. Shielded bearings do not cause any rolling friction.

Sealed bearings have rubber or plastic covers which can be removed for maintenance. Sealed bearings cause some friction.

Sealed bearings work well on a bandsaw. I replaced my shielded guide bearings with sealed bearings on my G0555. Stayed with shielded thrust bearing because seal bearing s bought not as big as shielded. Might just be a vendor thingy. Just think sealed bearings better on the bandsaw because of dust and easy to replace. Do not intend to service them, just replace as needed.

For your Jet 1014 would stay with good quality shielded ZZ bearings.
 

papNal

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Tallassee Al.
I found this place by doing a Google search.
www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/6004-2RS?gclid=CIPhqbTZ858CFegL5QodBi89eQ
This is the place that Jet Tools takes you to for Parts... The prices are way more expensive then at VXB but I guess thats because they are right from Jet.
https://parts.maam.waltermeier.com/Parts.aspx


I have used VXB for several years when rebuilding fishing reels and have always had great service and great bearings.The selection and price is outstanding.I was buying tubes of 10 bearings for what 2 would cost me locally.Most everyone is using the digital calipers these days,I just got the hole size ,dia, and thickness and matched up what I wanted,either MM or Numerical. Good luck.John
 

Len Shreck

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PapNal,
So the part number for the bearing in the Jet Book isn't the correct number for VXB? I checked and VXB has bearings with the same number. So I should take my old ones out and measure them before ordering from VXB or anyplace else is what I am getting by what your post says. Am I correct with that? Sorry if I seem like a pain in the azz but I just want to make sure before I place an order. Thanks Len
 

Dave_M

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Hey Len,
The part numbers listed in my manual are BB-6005VV & BB-6004VV. Sizes are listed as 6005 & 6004. Then I found this website, which gives some info on what the numbers mean. Hopefully it's accurate information. If it's on the Internet, it must be true... right??? :biggrin:

My lathe is only 2 years old so I think it's covered under the 5 year warranty. I'll have to check on that. Also my power switch is giving me problems. If it's under warranty, how long will it be down for repairs? I might want to purchase the parts and do the repairs myself to minimize the down time.
 

tim self

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Atoka, Oklahoma
Hey Len,
The part numbers listed in my manual are BB-6005VV & BB-6004VV. Sizes are listed as 6005 & 6004. Then I found this website, which gives some info on what the numbers mean. Hopefully it's accurate information. If it's on the Internet, it must be true... right??? :biggrin:

My lathe is only 2 years old so I think it's covered under the 5 year warranty. I'll have to check on that. Also my power switch is giving me problems. If it's under warranty, how long will it be down for repairs? I might want to purchase the parts and do the repairs myself to minimize the down time.

NORMALLY you would call Jet, verify the warranty is in effect and tell them what problems you have. After that they send you the parts. The power switch is probably just dust inside.
 
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papNal

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Tallassee Al.
PapNal,
So the part number for the bearing in the Jet Book isn't the correct number for VXB? I checked and VXB has bearings with the same number. So I should take my old ones out and measure them before ordering from VXB or anyplace else is what I am getting by what your post says. Am I correct with that? Sorry if I seem like a pain in the azz but I just want to make sure before I place an order. Thanks Len


Hi Len,I tried to email you,but for some reason it wouldn't go through from my end.However,I would measure and get all the dimensions before ordering.If I can help any shoot me a PM. John
 

Lenny

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Searsport, Maine
I still buy all my bearings at NAPA-----most of the time they got what I need in stock or can get them the next day.

I've always heard this to be true as well.

Whatever you end up doing, let us know how it works out. I think bearing replacement is a pretty common part of maintenance.... (meaning ...most of us will have to do it at some point)
 

PenMan1

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Eatonton, Georgia
There are really only three or four bearing manufactureres in the world. Timkin, Fafner, NTN, SKF and in the old days Rockwell. If you get a jeweler's loupe and look on the race (side of the bearing) the manufacturer's part number will be etched in the side.

Virtually all manufactures make machine tool bearings. Their numbers are also similar. If you can give the local Tractor Supply, Northern Tool, Granger Rep the number on the bearing, the rep can cross-reference the Mfg's part number to the Mfg number that they sell.

Most Lathe bearings are quite standard. I think Jet is like a 6004 VV/ZZ CA5(the first 2 numbers designate type code and series, the next two are size and bore and the alpha markings designate wheither shielded or sealed and markings after this. i.e. CA5 designated the lubricant inside the sealed bearing).Tractor Supply, Granger, NAPA or a good local machine shop will likely have these in stock.

Bearing specs are very precise as to allow changing between manufacturers (ISO 9000). By buying your bearings from someone other than Jet, who uses value-priced bearings (Chinese production) you can increase the bearing life and the precision of your machine (by using the Japanese or German products made to the same size).

Maybe this will help. http://www.gizmology.net/bearings.htm

Thanks
Andy Little
 
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Dave_M

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Well I fixed my heat problem with the head stock. The set screws on the hand wheel came lose and the hand wheel tightened up against the headstock too tight. I tightened the hand wheel tight as I could by hand against the head stock then backed off just under a 1/4 turn. Tightened the set screws on the hand wheel and no more heat. Runs good now. Just have to get the power switch fixed now.

Dave
 

jttheclockman

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Feb 22, 2005
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NJ, USA.
Well I fixed my heat problem with the head stock. The set screws on the hand wheel came lose and the hand wheel tightened up against the headstock too tight. I tightened the hand wheel tight as I could by hand against the head stock then backed off just under a 1/4 turn. Tightened the set screws on the hand wheel and no more heat. Runs good now. Just have to get the power switch fixed now.

Dave


What is the switch doing?? Not turning on or off??? What I do when this happens is push in on the toggle handle as you push the handle up or down and this should reseat the contacts. Those switches are cheaply made but this fix usually takes care of the problem most of the time. good luck.
 

Dave_M

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Thanks John. I just tried that and the switch still feels mushy and hard to switch. It doesn't click into the on or off position with a solid click. Occasionally it will stick in the on or off position and I have to jiggle it a bit to get it to switch. It feels very lose inside.

I hate to replace it with another cheap switch so I'll probably get a higher quality replacement on my own.



What is the switch doing?? Not turning on or off??? What I do when this happens is push in on the toggle handle as you push the handle up or down and this should reseat the contacts. Those switches are cheaply made but this fix usually takes care of the problem most of the time. good luck.
 
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