Beal buffing system

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MCCABER

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Dec 13, 2020
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9
Location
Kitchener, Ontario, Canada
Anybody out there who uses or has used the Beal buffing system any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated. I have just obtained one and could use some help. IE lathe speed, type of compound and order.
Many thanks Bob McCabe
 
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Lathe speed: 1000-1200 r/min
Order: Tripoli (red compound) on a stitched wheel, White diamond (white compound) on a loose cotton wheel, and finally wax (on a loose flannel wheel). Note that as you progress, the abrasive grit becomes finer and the wheel becomes softer.

I don't think the brand of compound is especially important. I bought my red compound at Harbor Freight, my white compound from PSI, and my wax from a vendor at a wood turning show.

Incidentally, the traditional wax for buffing is carnauba, but you can substitute either beeswax or microcrystalline wax. Beexwax leaves a softer finish, while microcrystalline leaves a harder finish that is less likely to show fingerprints but with a slightly lower gloss.

Hold the item being buffed in the 6 -9 o'clock region) as viewed from the end of the shaft - basically, you want the wheel to be moving downward and over the turning. Hold on tight - its very easy for the wheel to grab the turning and fling it to the floor where it will bounce around for a while. That's not good for the finish. DAMHIKT.

Also, buffing takes practice to master. I find that the best indicator of when you have buffed enough is feel - if it feels smooth, then move on to the next step. Be aware that is is possible to buff through a varnish or shellac finish - so don't buff any more than is necessary.
 
Thanks so much for the great advice!! I am not sure where you are located, I am in Canada. We have a local turning company called William Woodrite I will touch base with them for the product you suggested.
Cheers Bob McCabe
 
Although I don't use the Beal system, I do use a stand alone buffer based on a low speed pedestal buffer sold under the Rikon brand name. I reduced the size of the wheels to control the surface velocity to best match another commercially available pen buffing system and I use their "blue" rouge as my buffing compound on a sewn cotton wheel followed by a loosely sewn flannel wheel for the final polish.

My advice is to turn some tapered tools / dowels that can be inserted into one end of the pen parts to help hold them while buffing. I suggest wood as it has been my experience that any metal such as pen bushings or mandrels transfer some metal to the wheels which turns them kind of a dull gray color. Although many people successfully buff using these discolored wheels, I can't help but think the metal on the wheels is also transferred back onto future blanks when I am buffing them. Since using these wooden tools my wheels are as white (and blue) as the day they were new.

I don't always buff, but there are times when it just seems like the prudent thing to do to bring out just a little more luster.

Regards,
Dave
 
Thanks Dave, good idea on the dowels I am a pen turner and wanted to get a deeper luster on my acrylic blanks.I was wondering how to safely hold the pen blanks at the correct angle.
Cheers Bob McCabe
 
I also use a home made taper dowel.

I do not use the third wheel. I find the barrel is shiniest after polishing and that adding wax dulls the finish. I may be doing it wrong, or using the carnauba wax it comes with isn't the right kind for my purpose. I understand that wax also rubs off and would need to be reapplied.
 
MCCABER said:
Thanks Dave, good idea on the dowels I am a pen turner and wanted to get a deeper luster on my acrylic blanks.I was wondering how to safely hold the pen blanks at the correct angle.
Cheers Bob McCabe
Click to expand...
Here is a picture of my buffer. The tool I use most often is right in front. It fits the 10mm and larger tubes. - Dave
IMG_2955 Cropped.jpg
 
I bought the Beall system with 3 individual wheels and the Tripoli, white diamond and carnauba. It came with the MT2 mount with adapter to a 3/8-16 screw. Each wheel has a 3/8 screw that screws into the adapter. I buffed a few pieces years ago and recently started turning again. It is slow to have to change the wheel each time. I saw Beall has a mandrel lit that holds all 3 wheels, but you can't but just the mandrel, then I discovered it takes wheels 3/4" ID. I picked up a piece of 3/8" all thread and a rod coupler and made my own. Spacing is about 4" between wheels. It works great with the rod coupler on the tailstock end with a 60 degree center. I am sure the 3/4 rod is for safety, I will not turn this past my lathes slowest speed, 540 RPM. It is smooth and plenty fast for what I am doing. I turned a tapered rod from an oak dowel last night, looks kind of like a pen sizing device. Just slip the finished pen blank over it and go to town. I am old and everything hurts and not real strong, so the low speed keeps me from losing my grip.

Mike
 
Mike said:
I bought the Beall system with 3 individual wheels and the Tripoli, white diamond and carnauba. It came with the MT2 mount with adapter to a 3/8-16 screw. Each wheel has a 3/8 screw that screws into the adapter. I buffed a few pieces years ago and recently started turning again. It is slow to have to change the wheel each time. I saw Beall has a mandrel lit that holds all 3 wheels, but you can't but just the mandrel, then I discovered it takes wheels 3/4" ID. I picked up a piece of 3/8" all thread and a rod coupler and made my own. Spacing is about 4" between wheels. It works great with the rod coupler on the tailstock end with a 60 degree center. I am sure the 3/4 rod is for safety, I will not turn this past my lathes slowest speed, 540 RPM. It is smooth and plenty fast for what I am doing. I turned a tapered rod from an oak dowel last night, looks kind of like a pen sizing device. Just slip the finished pen blank over it and go to town. I am old and everything hurts and not real strong, so the low speed keeps me from losing my grip.

Mike
Click to expand...

On acrylic ( I ) rather use a polishing liquid compound
 
I use the Beale system exclusively. I removed the third wheel as when I used it it looked great today but cloudy going forward. I had to re-polish items constantly. I don't have that problem now.

Beale vs micro mesh is no contest with Beale always better. You also see the results as you work.

You'll love it.
 
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