Basic dust/shavings collection

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I have used the one you are looking at and it works fine.

But, I switched to this Clear Lathe Dust Hood with Magnetic Mounting Clamp from Penn State Industries (PSI). It is cheaper and for me, works much better. I do have a dust collector with 4" hose so I'm not sure how well it would work with a shop vac. The big difference is that shop vacs are low volume high pressure and dust collectors are high volume low pressure and just move much more air across the work area.
 
I just bought my second one that David linked this past winter and will put it on very soon. I had the same one for about 15 years now and it finally cracked. I move my lathe every now and then to clean behind it or if i drop something behind it so it finally cracked but the magnetic ability is a great advantage. I recommend them too.
 
I use the Rockler one that you linked for my JET lathe; however, I used a different locking nut underneath on the ways so I could position the mounting bracket closer to the headstock. I also extended the rod that holds it using a piece of threaded rod and a coupling nut so I could have the "business part" farther away from the headstock. Oh, since I had it apart I also painted it so that it better matched the color of my lathe - and swapped out the hose for a more flexible, clear one. It doesn't resemble the Rockler one much anymore, but it works great for me. - Dave

Here is a picture or two.

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PS For a Shop Vac based system, (like mine is), I highly recommend an Onida Dust Deputy Cyclone Separator. I used the deluxe kit that came with the bucket and casters. I also installed a HEPA kit on my Shop-Vac. After three or four years of use I still have a clean filter - between the Dust Deputy and The Vacuum Bag even the fine dust is being captured before it hits the filter. Still on my original collection bag too! - Dave
 
egnald said:
I use the Rockler one that you linked for my JET lathe; however, I used a different locking nut underneath on the ways so I could position the mounting bracket closer to the headstock. I also extended the rod that holds it using a piece of threaded rod and a coupling nut so I could have the "business part" farther away from the headstock. Oh, since I had it apart I also painted it so that it better matched the color of my lathe - and swapped out the hose for a more flexible, clear one. It doesn't resemble the Rockler one much anymore, but it works great for me. - Dave

Here is a picture or two.

View attachment 384712 View attachment 384713 View attachment 384714

PS For a Shop Vac based system, (like mine is), I highly recommend an Onida Dust Deputy Cyclone Separator. I used the deluxe kit that came with the bucket and casters. I also installed a HEPA kit on my Shop-Vac. After three or four years of use I still have a clean filter - between the Dust Deputy and The Vacuum Bag even the fine dust is being captured before it hits the filter. Still on my original collection bag too! - Dave
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I typically move my tool rest out of the way near the headstock when I'm sanding/finishing. Does having that attachment piece right on the lathe ever get in the way?
 
dschem said:
I typically move my tool rest out of the way near the headstock when I'm sanding/finishing. Does having that attachment piece right on the lathe ever get in the way?
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Not at all for me. It is in the back of the lathe. The one thing that is not a big problem but a hinderance sometimes is when I use my router set up on my lathe and need to use the indexing wheel. The locking nut and bolt line up with the edge of the dust collector but I just move it down a little more and it is out of the way. So easy fix.

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d_bondi said:
I have used the one you are looking at and it works fine.

But, I switched to this Clear Lathe Dust Hood with Magnetic Mounting Clamp from Penn State Industries (PSI). It is cheaper and for me, works much better. I do have a dust collector with 4" hose so I'm not sure how well it would work with a shop vac. The big difference is that shop vacs are low volume high pressure and dust collectors are high volume low pressure and just move much more air across the work area.
Click to expand...
out of curiosity, can you post a photo of how the magnetic looks on the back of your lathe? I'm going to be rearranging things in my shop this summer and my lathe may get moved closer to a wall. Curious to see how yours looks and get a rough idea on clearance that might be needed.
 
bugradx2 said:
out of curiosity, can you post a photo of how the magnetic looks on the back of your lathe? I'm going to be rearranging things in my shop this summer and my lathe may get moved closer to a wall. Curious to see how yours looks and get a rough idea on clearance that might be needed.
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Hello Kent. Yes, I'll take a few photos and post them later today.
 
bugradx2 said:
out of curiosity, can you post a photo of how the magnetic looks on the back of your lathe? I'm going to be rearranging things in my shop this summer and my lathe may get moved closer to a wall. Curious to see how yours looks and get a rough idea on clearance that might be needed.
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Kent,

I don't use it up against the wall, but do store it that way, so one photo shows that with the 4" dust collection hose connected the wall is 16" behind the centerline of the lathe. I have another photo that shows my 3D printed magnetic dust collection fittings adding about 4" to the back dimension. I'm not sure that you would get all 4" back, but maybe 3" of it.

The cardboard in the throat of the dust hood is to help direct the air flow across the work. It makes a big difference.

Please let me know if you want a different angle photo or other measurements.

David

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d_bondi said:
Kent,

I don't use it up against the wall, but do store it that way, so one photo shows that with the 4" dust collection hose connected the wall is 16" behind the centerline of the lathe. I have another photo that shows my 3D printed magnetic dust collection fittings adding about 4" to the back dimension. I'm not sure that you would get all 4" back, but maybe 3" of it.

The cardboard in the throat of the dust hood is to help direct the air flow across the work. It makes a big difference.

Please let me know if you want a different angle photo or other measurements.

David

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Thanks so much David! You've even magically chosen the correct lathe to show in the photos! I take it your lathe is mobile in the shop? Care to share photos of the setup? Like I said, still in the design phase here in Chicago.

I had to move my lathe from my work table to do some bandsaw boxes and might try to build my table before moving the lathe again. I'm fully capable of moving it but that sucker is heavy
 
You are welcome Kent. The Jet JWL-1221VS is a great midi lathe, and yes, it is a heavy little bugger.

My shop is a single bay in our garage and I still use it for my car, so.... EVERYTHING is on heavy duty locking casters. Even the things that I don't move often. It would be nice to have a dedicated space, but that isn't in the cards right now.

When I use my lathe, I pull it out from the wall and put it perpendicular to my main work bench. It takes literally 60 seconds to move it out and connect the dust collection to it. I have workspace and everything I need close, either in the lathe cart/cabinet, workbench/drawers, or wall cabinets over the workbench. When I'm done, I clean up and roll it back.

I'll take some photos and post them later today. I think my comments above will make more sense then.
 
d_bondi said:
You are welcome Kent. The Jet JWL-1221VS is a great midi lathe, and yes, it is a heavy little bugger.

My shop is a single bay in our garage and I still use it for my car, so.... EVERYTHING is on heavy duty locking casters. Even the things that I don't move often. It would be nice to have a dedicated space, but that isn't in the cards right now.

When I use my lathe, I pull it out from the wall and put it perpendicular to my main work bench. It takes literally 60 seconds to move it out and connect the dust collection to it. I have workspace and everything I need close, either in the lathe cart/cabinet, workbench/drawers, or wall cabinets over the workbench. When I'm done, I clean up and roll it back.

I'll take some photos and post them later today. I think my comments above will make more sense then.
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I'm lucky enough to have an unfinished basement so we put a shop in down there. Like everyone else, I do kind of wish I'd put it in a little larger but that's ok. Despite the effort and expense I think my wife likes it down there because her car doesn't get a fine coat of sawdust any longer. She also has said more than once that it's really nice for me to just turn off the lights and leave the project in whatever state it's in without having to pick everything up and put it away when I'm done.

Most of my larger tools are on some form of a rolling base except for the planer but I don't use it all the time so that's ok. The lathe setup has just organically taken over my shop work table which is in the center of my shop. End vise dog holes hold the turning tools really nicely and I can just move to different corners of the table to glue, turn, etc. My disc sander sits on my router table right behind where I turn and I've got the band saw placed nearby for when I need it.

I love to turn but also like to do flatwork and owe my daughter a stand for her saddle to match the one I made her brother a year or two ago. With the lathe on the table it's hard to do that type of work and I don't want to move the lathe all the time.

One other question, purely out of curiosity. How tall is the bed of your lathe from the floor? I'm 6'2" and debating placing the lathe a little taller than some other people might do it purely for the convenience of the main user. My son and daughter stand on a stool when they turn because the work table is countertop height
 
They say that ergonomically, the best height for a wood lathe is so that the centerline of the lathe is at elbow height. That makes sense to me because of the mechanics of holding turning tools level.

I am 6' and the ways of mine is at 38 5/8". I designed the cabinet/cart it is on to put it at that height and it works well for me.

I have do have an unfinished basement, but for several reasons we dismissed that option. Was that the right decision, who knows, LOL.

Photos coming later.
 
d_bondi said:
They say that ergonomically, the best height for a wood lathe is so that the centerline of the lathe is at elbow height. That makes sense to me because of the mechanics of holding turning tools level.

I am 6' and the ways of mine is at 38 5/8". I designed the cabinet/cart it is on to put it at that height and it works well for me.

I have do have an unfinished basement, but for several reasons we dismissed that option. Was that the right decision, who knows, LOL.

Photos coming later.
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Thanks, you're correct on the ergonomics (I used to do that work) but sometimes it gets ignored for various reasons. I've had mine up WAY too high on my table for a couple years because I was late into turning and it's always easier to do something else other than build another bench. there is part of me that likes it high because it absolutely prevents me from bending over while turning. I might go in between to the two, I haven't decided yet.

I think if you and your shop are happy then you've made the right decision for you. Why worry about it. When we built the house having a shop in the basement was a pipe dream. I did have our builder put in extra outlets and do the outlets on two circuits so I didn't lose the whole garage running tools.

Kent
 
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