Basement Shop - layout/help/ideas...

[pesto126]

Hi all... so, I've decided it is time to start building a basement shop for my woodworking hobby. I have a space that is 40x20x7 - generally rectangular with a water heater (in the area) and furnace (just outside) but no other obstacles within.

I am looking for some thoughts on how best to go about setting up the shop and advice for those that have gone through this type of project. The space is currently basement concrete - no issues with water/mold or anything in that regard. I was leaning toward using foam board based product in lieu of studs (ie: InSoFast) and then drywall.

My concerns would be: air filtration (especially with gas powered water heater and furnace in area), dust collection (what types of system and installation), and lighting/equipment layout. Was thinking of electrical outlets above bench level every 6 feet, florescent shop lights in ceiling studs as well.

I am just a hobbiest and don't have large tools... most of my equipment would need to be purchased as time goes on but I want to set the space up correctly to begin with.

Thanks for any thoughts/advice/photos, etc.... also, if you know of anyone in MA that consults or is a general contractor for these types of remodels... that info would be appreciated as well. - Andy.

 

[jeff]

That's a nice space!

What's the need to drywall? I had a very similar situation and I just painted the walls a light color. You'll be hanging a million things on the wall, some heavy I bet, and being able to use concrete anchors is nice. It doesn't sound like your method will give you a solid mounting surface for cabinets, shelves, wood rack, etc.

The very first thing I'd do is think about dust collection. You have a great opportunity now to run a DC trunk line with drops for every machine.

For electrical, I ran a 50A circuit to a subpanel in the shop. Then two 15A circuits for lights, two 20A 120V circuits, and a 20A 220V circuit all the way around the shop. I did everything in conduit, with extra boxes with a loop of wire in strategic spots so I could expand.

One of my YouTube subscriptions is Down To Earth Woodworks and he has some great videos on shop layout. He also did a dust collector review a couple months ago and settled on the JDS cyclone, which I think is a great machine.

Good luck and post photos as you go!

 

[pesto126]

Thanks Jeff - appreciate the link and will take a look at the youtube videos (those are always helpful!). The drywall and InsoFast system is for insulation purposes - gets cold in my basement and the insofast panels will provide lots of R value to keep things warmish. The drywall would just be to cover the insofast panels which are rated to hold over 80lbs of force on the walls in their "studs"... having said that though - it would still be a good idea to drill into the concrete for heavy stuff.

Hmmmm.... lots to think about!

 

[larryc]

When you get your walls covered, french cleats are the best way to hang anything on the walls. Google "french cleat" if you are not familiar with the term. The nice thing is that you don't need any special hardware.

 

[Gary Beasley]

I've seen recommendations for putting in lathe strips against the concrete to allow airflow and prevent moisture accumilation under your insulation and prevent the possibilty of mold growth. If you really need major insulation a full 2x4 stud wall against the concrete to make room for more insulation. That would also give you a place to run wiring.

 

[Rodnall]

Grizzly has a free workshop layout planner.

 

[plantman]

I have found in my main shop (36 X 24 X 8), putting the heavy items on locking wheels, allows me to move everything any place I need to make room for larger projects. This includes my pen assembly bench, micro lathe bench, large shaper table, planer, and table saw. Be sure you run two seperate lighting runs, its no fun stumbling around a black shop looking for the breaker panel. When I first built my shop I used florescent lites, but soon found out that you may not be able to see a rotating blabe or cutter with them very well.
I switched over to 300W clear bulbs (8) mounted.in fixtures with pull cord switches and outlets. Now I can turn the lights on with the 2 three way switches on either end of the shop, or turn off any lights I don't need. Run 12/3 wire for your outlets good for 20 Amps. If your not going to run outlets in your overhead lights, 14/3 will handle 15 Amps. In 55+ years of woodworking I have never had any machines that required 220V. There are many advantages to running machines on 220V, but saving money is not one of them, and they also use up two spaces in your panel box. Some advantages of 220Vs are. You can run larger more powerful motors, they will use less Amps because the are split betreen two breakers, will draw less start up or peak Amps, plus some others. Many motors can be run at 120 or 220 volts. You will never have enough storage !!!!!! Jim S

 

[plantman]

That's a nice space!

What's the need to drywall? I had a very similar situation and I just painted the walls a light color. You'll be hanging a million things on the wall, some heavy I bet, and being able to use concrete anchors is nice. It doesn't sound like your method will give you a solid mounting surface for cabinets, shelves, wood rack, etc.

The very first thing I'd do is think about dust collection. You have a great opportunity now to run a DC trunk line with drops for every machine.

For electrical, I ran a 50A circuit to a subpanel in the shop. Then two 15A circuits for lights, two 20A 120V circuits, and a 20A 220V circuit all the way around the shop. I did everything in conduit, with extra boxes with a loop of wire in strategic spots so I could expand.



One of my YouTube subscriptions is Down To Earth Woodworks and he has some great videos on shop layout. He also did a dust collector review a couple months ago and settled on the JDS cyclone, which I think is a great machine.

Good luck and post photos as you go!

Jeff; Not that it will ever happen, but 2-15 Amp + 2-20Amp + 1-20 Amp (220) = 90 amps on a 50 Amp breaker. Jim S

 

[monophoto]

Three suggestions:

1. A 'bulkhead door' (eg. ' Bilco') is really convenient
2. Dust collection is important. Having walls around the shop area really helps control dust. Be prepared to change the filter on the home furnace.
3. Have at least one dedicated electrical circuit for the shop - and more is better. Ideally, for safety, have lights on a separate circuit from tools

 

[OOPS]

If you have others living with you in the house, then a primary concern should be noise dampening insulation to keep the noise from bothering others above you. You know how noisy air compressors and table saws can be. I would consider running the electrical through the ceiling with drops every few feet, so in case you move tools around over time, there is still a plug-in handy nearby. To me, insulating the ceiling is more important than the walls, as I like to work in a cooler environment. My garage shop is about 55-60 degrees in the winter, which is perfect for me. If you like it warmer, then insulate a wall at a time. Just my two cents.

 

[wyone]

First thing I would do is to make sure to isolate both the furnace and water heater from the woodworking area. You certainly do not want fine dust collecting on either of those, particularly of the are gas and have any kind of an open flame. (not sure how energy efficient they may be) I have witnessed an explosion from fine dust and it is not something to be taken lightly. If you isolate those appliances, make sure you provide a source of combustion air into the area they are in. I know in CO they do not require the combustion air vents to be installed if the appliances are in a large unfinished area, but once you enclose those areas, it becomes an issue.

As far as the electrical, a 50 amp service should be more than adequate if it is just you, or you and one other working. I am a licensed Master Electrician and have done design work for close to 30 years, so in my opinion the 50 amp is fine, but install MORE 120 volt outlets than you think you need and put all of the 120 volt on GFCI breakers or receptacles. I know some may think that is overkill, but really, a few bucks spent on the GFCI to protect your life is very cheap insurance!

 

[wouldentu2?]

Look on the internet to see some of the magazines that had articles on "dream" shops and use their ideas. Pictures are worth a thousand words.

 

[pesto126]

Thank you very much everyone! This is the type of advice and assistance I was looking for... I think this may prove to be a larger project than I originally thought given the water heater and furnace in the area - agree these should be isolated in "closets" and will need to be reviewed.

I will do some more internet searches and think I will need to consult a basement contractor for info as well...

thanks again!

 

[plantman]

Thank you very much everyone! This is the type of advice and assistance I was looking for... I think this may prove to be a larger project than I originally thought given the water heater and furnace in the area - agree these should be isolated in "closets" and will need to be reviewed.

I will do some more internet searches and think I will need to consult a basement contractor for info as well...

thanks again!

Check your local building code, you may need a building permit to proceed. Jim S

 

[pesto126]

Check your local building code, you may need a building permit to proceed. Jim S

Oh yes... certainly the locals will want a piece of the pie... having just put in a gas fireplace... I needed to spend over $200 on building, electrical and gas permits. While I appreciate the extra protection and piece of mind of having someone independent follow-up and check the workmanship... I wish it could be done for free as part of my (already very high) property tax bill!

:neutral:

 

[TellicoTurning]

As far as the electrical, a 50 amp service should be more than adequate if it is just you, or you and one other working. I am a licensed Master Electrician and have done design work for close to 30 years, so in my opinion the 50 amp is fine, but install MORE 120 volt outlets than you think you need and put all of the 120 volt on GFCI breakers or receptacles. I know some may think that is overkill, but really, a few bucks spent on the GFCI to protect your life is very cheap insurance!

Second this idea... when I put in my shop - a stand alone building out back - I put a plug on every other stud all the way around the shop... wish now that I had gone to every stud... I also put each wall on a separate circuit in the panel box... you'll likely never be running but one machine at a time, but should you do so, the separation might save some frustration. My lights are also on a separate circuit from the plugs, plus my DC is on a dedicated circuit.